ducatist4

Not yet 92 lex Haven't got the tps yet. I have contunied to drive the car and of course the cel won't come on. After lifting the hood and wiggeling the wires on the tps seems to have fixed the problem. I am going to change the tps anyway. LScott, was there anything that pointed to the ECM? You said that you changed the ecm. Did you have yours rebuilt or purchase a new one??

Thanks LScott I was able to take it to a indy. He has a computer, hooked it up and it was a code "41". TPS Will order one and have it replaced. I would still like to know what diagnostic computer is avaliable. I would like to purchase one specific to this car. Thanks again

I searched for a similar problem but couldn't find one. I have a 92 ls400. The check engine light came on while I was driving on the hiway, about 75 mph. I pulled over and checked all fluids, they are O.K. Started the car and the light was off. Continued on, back to hiway speed, and the light came on again. The car was running fine. I noticed that when I passed someone that it would not down shift. I slowed down and pressed full throttel with no shift result. Pulled over again, put car in park, shut off, re-started, Check engine light went off, car shifted fine. As long as the check engine light was off it shifted fine. When the CEL was on I was able to shift with the O/D button. I think that when I was using the cruse controll it would shift fine also. Can't be sure though, no hills steep enough to check. No lexus dealers or auto zone to use diagnostic computer. I am going to a independent to see if he can check. So if anyone has had a similar problem, A responce would be appreciated. Also where can I get my own diagnostic computer??? What is the best brand to buy?? THanks in advance.. This web sight is great.

Thread Cutter What if you have had the pump replaced, didn't change the valve, and the old pump is gone?? Can you get a different valve??

How about first part of August for the BBQ??

Duckee I purchased a 92 ls that the paint was a little better than "Good". I like using products by the name of "Wizard Car Care". I have a good friend that ownes a body shop and this is all they use. When I polished the car it looked O.K. The thing that I noticed is that the better the finish got Inoticed more imperfections. Scratches, rock chips, etc. Maby some of the imperfections were already on your car and you are polishing everything around them and they are more noticable. For me this is not a 4 hour process. I will polish on a car for days. Then when I think I am done I notice the car in the bright sunlight and it has a bad case of the swirlies. Don't be so hard an yourself, youll get it. BTW my car is that dark jade green that looks black.

No problem with the BBQ. If you like to drive, and have never been through GNP it is worth the trip.

I am replacing the 7 backlight lights on my climate control. I orderd them from superbrite. A sulvania T 1.5. They did not fit as per the tutorial. I ended up ordering from Jim Walker.

I belong to a Yahoo motorcycle groupe and the groupe has "regions", like North West, mid-west, Rocky Mountain States, etc. They have rides that they go on. Some times over night. People plan their vacations around these rides. Most of the rides are scenic. This is a great way to meet new people, compair bikes and see different areas of our country. I live about 45 minutes from Glacier National Park, and have ridden through many times an a bike, car or whatever. I am really looking forward to driving the LS through this summer. Montana does not have a Lexus dealership, but rumor is that they are working on one in Missoula. My wife and I owen a very small Motel in Conrad, Montana and are planning a motorcycle ride through the park and a BBQ at the motel after. Maby this is already being done on LOC and I just can't find it. However if it isn't, might it be something that people would be interested in????? I don't mean for people to have to give a address as to where they live. I realize that that could be a problem. Just a general region.

Sent you a PM thanks

Been searching this site for information on a radio swap for my 92 ls and not finding what I want. I have a AM FM CAS. I want to install a stock lexus AM FM CAS with CD button. I asume that I will need a cd changer to go in the trunk. My question is if I find a changer and "head unit" will it plug and play? Will the new wiring plug into existing? I realize that I will have to run wire to the trunk for the changer. I have a pioneer radio. Is a nakamichi compatiable? Thanks

New to form. This may have already been posted, but here goes anyway. If you are going to do this yourself please read all of this before you start. Seat belt tensioner is like a lawn mower starter. Just a coil spring. My car is a 1992 ls400. It is 15 years old. So is the spring. Its streached out. Time needed to do this is 6 hours. Tools needed. Flat blade screwdriver, or a "crows foot" would be better flash light. To be left in the car when done. Meteric socket set Needle nose plyers. They have to be small. Buy a leatherman super tool and leave it in the car. Pair of soft cotton gloves. Leave in car when done 4 thumbs. If you don't have 4, make sure you have a helper avaliable. Don't let them stand there and watch you. They will be telling you what to do. 6 pack of Budwieser [1 person] 12 pack of Budwieser [2 people] I started on the passenger side, back door open, front passenger seat all the way foward. Kneeling down outside the car facing in. You have to get the thresh hold up. Start prying up on the right side closest to the center pillar. Start on the inside of the car. Use the screwdriver or crows foot. Just do a little at a time. If you have the soft cotton gloves on, you can get your fingers under the trim. Be extra carefull where the thresh hold meets the center post trim. They are hooked together with a male piece on the thresh hold, and a female piece on the center post trim. The plastic fasteners that hold all the trim on are very strong, when the come loose it sounds like they break. Some of them do. Some of them pull out of the trim pieces and stay in the car body. Use the needle nose plyers or crows foot to get them out. You might have to stand on your head to see these fasteners. Well stand on your head. Use the flashlight to see, your fingers to feel. The thresh hold does not have to come all the way off. Just enough to get the center post trim off. I removed it back about 12 to 15 inches. O.K. time for a beer. Next, move to the front door. Door open, kneel down out side. Start closest to the center pillar. Remove it about half way. You now have the thresh holds off. Use the screw driver or crows foot and start with the center trim. Start at the bottom. A little at the front door, then go to the back. The trim has to be loosened and then pulled down about an inch. There are plastic pieces that go up and under the next piece of trim. If you pull the bottom of the trim piece out too far, you will break these off. O.k. that piece is off, you can see the seat belt retractor. Have a beer. There is a bolt on top of the retractor. 10mm I think. Remove it. The bolt that holds the seat belt into the floor has to be removed also. The plastic piece covers it up. Pry the plastic piece up and slide it up the seat belt. Remove bolt. The retractor sits inside a plastic housing. The housing is held onto the retractor with plastic fingers. Just pry the fingers apart. The retractor is now loose, with the exception of the wires. You have to twist the retractor a certain way to get it out from under the carpet. You have to just keep trying different ways to turn it. It will come out. Carefull not to streach the wires. You will get into a position to remove the wires. The wires do come apart. Study it and you will figure it out. This is hard to explane. If you don't get it rite away, let it rest and have a beer. O.K. you have the retractor loose and in your hand. Now you need those extra thumbs. Pull the belt all the way out of the retractor. It stops. Hold the spool. Pull the belt through the slot of the spool with needle nose. There is a plastic piece in the belt, slide it out one end or the other of the belt. Pull the belt out of the spool. You have to remember how the belt threaded in the retractor. Don't let go of the spool. It will chew your finger nails off. You have to tighten the spool. Turn it in the direction that will give it more tension. I turned mine about 3 or 4 times, looked at the spring, it wasn't tight yet, so I gave it another turn or 2. Thread the belt back in, and slide the plastic stop back in. When you do this the seat belt "stop" wants to stop the belt and the turning of the spool. Just keep working at it and you will get it. O.K you can put the retractor back in. Carefull with the wires. Pull on the belt and see how you did. I think that you can tighten up the spring alot. Unless you are a large person, the belt will never be extended to its full length. Put your trim pieces back on. Be sure to line up plastic fasteners with holes in the body. Some times a good pop with the palm of your hand in necessary. I did break some of the fasteners and found that my local body shop had the correct ones. Your done. Remember I told you 6 hours, and it only took you 1. You just had 3 beers. Don't drink and drive. I hope this helps someone. I just got my car and realy like it. It has some issues but it is 15 years old. Can't wait to drive through Glacier Park.