Zett123

For do-it-yourselfers on removing the front wheel bearing hub on a LS460; I know removing the hub can be a problem due to the Galvanic corrosion between the two different metals causing them to bond. This making it a grueling task to separate the bearing hub from the spindle knuckle. My question is, has anyone tried to back the bolts that secure the hub to the spindle knuckle about 1/8" (or whatever) and then drive around the block making some nice, tight left hand turns (for right side removal) including traversing some speed bump,to loosen the hub for easier removal? I'm not talking about a three day excursion, I am just suggesting enough travel and stress on the components to jar it loose. Has anyone ever tried this?

My '01 LS430 passenger mirror is spent. It just flops around because the compression washer that holds down the spring can no longer do its job. I tried pushing it back down over the shaft but a week later it just popped off. I need to get another unit and other than ebay cannot find one. I only want to spend about $200.00 for a used one in good working order and It doesn't have to be Midnight Pine Pearl because I can change out the shell. Where other than CL or eBay does one find these. Thanks, jz

You have a 2003 which means your maps are outdated unless you spend $200.00 every few years getting upgrades. My 2001 LS430 has NAV but I use my Verizon Droid Cell, Google Maps GPS instead. It is always up to date and on a trip it recently routed me to a different road because of a bad accident on Rt 81 S. It saved me a couple of hours of sitting in traffic and shows me real time where there are backups and slow traffic. My Lexus NAV would have never of done any of this. Unless you can do the work yourself, I wouldn't waste time on repairs if that is what is needed. If you don't have a cell phone with GPS, you can get a GPS with traffic and free updates for the cost of one Lexus upgrade. (Recommend Garmin 2597LMT $179.95) ~jz~

I had P0430 code and it was due to a exhaust leak which Meineke fixed for about $80.00. That was about 4 years ago and the code never came back. Here is a good post a fellow Club member posted on the subject a couple years ago. Hope it helps. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/70886-fault-codes-p0430-and-p0420-on-ls430/

I was losing gas mileage which was down to about 23.8 MPG highway miles. Went to local auto store, picked up a $7.00 can of MAF cleaner (mass air flow sensor). The project took about 5 minutes from start to finish and instantly gas mileage improved. Here is a pic of my 2001 LS430 (158K miles) hitting 30.1 mpg beltway traffic. I actually hit 31.0 MPG a few minutes later which is the highest I have ever seen it. Not bad for a 285HP luxury auto. Oh the Taillamp failure?? That is fixed by hitting the lens in the trunk lid.

Don't forget to test the belt tensioner pulley also.

The VSC light comes on after driving about 5' in my 2001 LS430 that has about 150K miles on it. Only one time did the VSC light come on with an "39" code next to it. This light is off when I start up the car and only comes on after the car rolls a little bit. Might it have something to do with the "Zero point calibration"? jz

Follow up on my post... Under the tutelage and instruction of these forums, I decided to take a crack at fixing the lose arm rest on my door panel. The panel came off very easy with a few screws and disconnecting the connectors. The problem is, the way the arm rest is mated with the panel is by melting the plastic supports to the panel and over the years broke off from the stress. So I took some 1" sheet metal zip it screws, washers and just screwed through the center of the support to put it back together. It is probably more solid now than it was from the factory. Many thanks for those who take the time to post pictures in this forum. jz

The handle on my 2001 LS430 door panel is broken. I been looking for Tan/Beige drivers side, front door panel on Ebay and the internet and there is none. Anyone know where I can get a used replacement or a company that can redo my panel? The one piece plastic that is secures the handle to the panel is broken. Plus after 12 years of use, the handle is worn, so I would like to replace the whole thing.. Not paying $2,000.00 from Lexus. Thanks, JZ

I should have mentioned, on your new Multimeter, put your black lead at the bottom of the device where it says "Com". I don't know how you ever got a read from the way you installed the leads to begin with. You could of damaged the meter. jz

Battery should read at least 12.50 VDC to start, turn the engine over. Existing battery might have a dead cell if it goes below 12.5 after a few hours with no load on it. Usually you can see the numbers descend slowly on your Multimeter after the car has been turned off if it is a dead cell. I have used this method 100 times to diagnose whether or not it is the battery or alternator. This test has always been 100% accurate in determining a failed battery.

You need to meter the battery on the terminals around the post to make sure you are getting over 12.5 VDC. If you have the sufficient voltage, it could be a shimming problem with the starter. Meaning, the teeth with the flywheel and starting are not meshing together properly. If possible, you can always loosen the starter, back it out of its location, hold the starter tightly against the block (to ground it) and have someone crank it over to see if the starter gear flies out and starts spinning. If it does what it is supposed to, you have a shimming problem. You might want to check and see if you are using the correct starter because you mentioned the previous owner brought it. jz

Amy, I too had the fault code on my LS430 and there was an exhaust leak. I took it to Midas and the guy fixed it for $80.00. That was about 4 years ago and have not had a problem since then from the leak. Also, I am with landar on getting a good local shop in your area. The Lexus dealer doesn't fix anything, they "replace" instead which cost lots of money. I say keep your LS430 until you weigh the cost of another car vs spending a $1,000 here or there. You might want to give your general location so someone in here might know of a good trustworthy shop in your area for you to patronize. jz

I upgraded my 2001 LS430 Nav a several years back and haven't purchased an upgrade since then. To upgrade these Generation 2/3 Nav units I think it is a waste of money. For the price of an upgraded disc, you can buy a great cell phone and run navigation with Google Maps for free. So, for several years now I haven't used the Lexus (Denso) Nav and also tossed my Garmin unit with free renewable maps for the Google Maps. I love the Google maps app with traffic which is very accurate. Just my .02 cents.

Drivers side drain tube was clogged and you couldn't even tell where the opening was. Also in the last week I had a new windshield installed because of a slight crack that was growing larger. We had some rain but nothing severe and as of this writing i am high and dry. Another question is, if the sunroof drain is clogged, how does it make its way from the roof area to under the dash onto the floor mat? It is a mystery. (I ran the A/C all day Sunday going to the Eastern Shore and back, not a drop).

I have had Bridgestones and Yokohama's on my '01 LS430 and now cruising with Michelin MAV4 Primacy's on 225/55/17 Chrome rims. They seems like the most quiet and best in wet condition handling. However, I developed slow leaks from the Lexus chrome wheel pitting around the bead area. My shop guy (Iron Mikes Garage in Rockville) sanded them down and I haven't had any problems since then. No more chrome wheels for me unless I move to San Diego. The Michelin's are wearing very well too.

I am getting an accumulation of water in 2001 LS430 on the front passenger rubber floor mat after a rain. Car is parked and not A/C has not been running. Any ideas?? The water is also running through the carpet into the back seat floor area too, soaked.

I had a P0135 Check light, Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Driver's side (left front) on exhaust header. Lexus # 89465-50120 / Denso OEM # 234-4138 / Denso Universal # 234-4209 / Bosch OEM # 13441 / Bosch Universal # 15733 First off, It is never a good idea to drive around with a "Check" engine light on. I took my LS430 to a friend of a friends shop and he gave me an excellent price on the 02 replacement. I purchased the O2 sensor from the Pembroke Pines Lexus who at one time gave the best price for OEM sensors. (not sure if they still do). The shop had a very hard time getting this sensor out, even with the best of tools and skill. I let them do my timing belt replacement and did a great job at a good price too. If you take it to a Lexus dealer, it can get pretty pricy, so shop around. Give the Forum the area you are from and maybe someone knows or has posted a good shop in your area you can trust your baby to. Hope this helps, jz

Just because you reset the computer doesn't mean you fixed the problem. Sometimes it may take putting on 100 miles before the check light shows up again. If it does come on again, take it to an Advance Auto or other auto parts store to get the code read usually for free. My guess it is an O2 sensor going bad and a slight exhaust leak can cause problems too. The O2 sensors are going to go bad someday. My check light has come on several times, one was O2 sensor, another was knock sensor and another was exhaust leak. 2001 LS430 150K miles and purring like a kitten.

My 2001 LS430 HID Headlight lenses were getting pretty yellow. They have never been cleaned or the yellow hazed removed in 11 years. I read many threads on various products and procedures on how to clean the age off of these lenses. So, I thought if it was about removing oxidation why not use polishing compound and a buffer. I went to Advance Auto and they had copious amounts of headlight cleaning products for doing the job. Price range was $9.00-$29.95 with all kinds of various applications for doing the job. I picked up a can of Turtle Wax Polishing Compound for $$3.99. I then applied the compound to the lens using a pad and dabbed it like I would applying it to paint. I have a 1,400/1650 RPM Sears buffer with a Schlegel buffing pad. I liked the higher speed better to grind in the polishing compound. (Warning, do not use a high speed buffer, 5,000-7,000 RPM. You could melt the lens.) Almost instantly you could see results. If I missed the lens area and hit the paint, with the compound, there was no harm to the paint. I then applied a second coat to the lens and in about 2 minutes one side was done. If it wasn't for the nicks caused by little rocks and stones, the headlight would look like new. You could probably do it without the buffer but would take a little more time and elbow grease. I took a picture of the left side after I hit a spot on it. The picture of the right side is the finish product. This method really works well, hence the sharing with the forum.

Ok guys, this time on my LS430 140K miles, it is my A/C. I noticed a few weeks ago that the A/C was not cooling at idle. Today, the ambient temperature is about 90 degrees and while sitting in the line at Burger King I notice the A/C blowing out warm air. A few minutes later when I left and drove off it started to cool down again. It stays cool as long as you are driving or the engine R's up up. I noticed that the A/C compressor was not activated when it was blowing warm air. Since it does cool while driving, I am ruling out the compressor and I am thinking it might be a low pressure switch if there is one.. Any thoughts?? Thanks, JZ

I used the Silicon sealant method with speaker in place. Took less than 5 minutes and sounds as good as new and I crank the bass!!! (Before the speaker blew with bass way down on the equalizer),

Ok guys, My 2001 LS430 has an ignition timing problem. I know there is no adjustment in the timing as far as moving a distributor (if it had one) to make an adjustment. Here is the problem, car seems to run excellent, hums like a sewing machine but when ( at any speed) I put the pedal to the metal, there sounds like a backfire and then takes off. Or, there is a hesitation then accelerates. There is about 140K on the car and I had the Timing belt and plugs replaced for the first time at 135K, ( I know, I know, should of been 90K). The car doesn't puff any smoke at all and there are no engine codes. I am getting about 15 in town and 23 highway miles. I always use premium gas and I don't have the lead foot like I did when I was in my teens.You don't notice the hesitation unless you need the power to pass or get on the highway. Any thoughts? There are some products on the market such as " MSD Adjustable Timing Control" unit from "Horse Power Freaks". Are these any good? Thanks, JZ

BMW?? I always go to Consumer Reports to see how owners rate their own cars. This I believe is a very reliable way to critique an automobile before you buy. I brought my LS430 by looking through various recommendations and ratings for upscale cars. I have had great success with my Lexus and glad I looked at CR before I sent any money. For $19.00 for a online subscription, it is a bargain. You will be supprised to see what some so called luxary auto's are really trash. jz

I think the operative word here is "Dealership". I am sure if you are using a Lexus dealership to replace your brakes, it is costing you an arm and a leg. If you are going through pads that quick, something is wrong. The brake system is sized for the vehicle under "normal" conditions. I don't care if you are driving a Mack truck, they shouldn't wear out that quick. Especially if the rears are going bad that soon too. Out of curiosity, I would take it to an independent shop or Midas and see what they say about the condition of your existing pads, front and rear. Why did you take it in to the shop in the first place? Did you hear squealing or a metallic, grinding sound? Or was it a routine service check and they decided it needs to be done? My LS430 has sensors ($75.00 each)to set off a warning light if it they were to wear though. That means there is about 1/8" left on the pad and it is time to have them replaced. You might consider buying a complete set of HP rotors with matching Ceramic pads from a vendor or off the Bay. This may prove cheaper in the long run. I am sure this forum has plenty of experts on the subject and what kind of after market brakes are best for your application. You may want to give the city you are from and let someone here give you a name of a good and fair independent shop nearby. On a side note, I use my gated shifter to downshift all the time from OD to 3rd gear. My brakes last a long, long time and it is not a strain on the tranny to do so. jz