Sorry about that I guess the default is hide e-mail.
I turned it on now.
After reading the other methods, I kinda went the easy way.
On the 97 the relay is just forward of the flasher in a panel by the drivers left foot.
If you study the wiring diagram from the FSM (thanks for the link Toys) you will see that the power to fire the fog light relay coming from the headlight circuit goes into terminal 1 of the fog light relay while the ground is provided by the switch on the stalk.
Instead of making a bunch of jumpers, I removed the relay and took the number 1 terminal on the relay and bent it over and back around the case. On mine it is the top aft (toward rear of car) terminal. There is plenty of spade there to slide a female spade connector on it and it will still go back in. I then reinstalled the relay with a 4 inch wire attached to the bent #1 with a female spade connector.
There is a small bundle of wires that runs right next to the relay, I poked the big blue one and found it is hot with the ignition and without cutting it I stripped a small section with a razor blade and connected the jumper there. I suppose you could use a scotch lock trailer light splice connector there if you’re real lazy.
I'm not sure what this wire does but blue usually indicates an actuator circuit. Since it runs down under the door sill plate my guess is seat motor or trunk release. The relay coil circuit uses a hair size wire inside so it can't draw any current.
I don't know what the relay costs but I think if we try to bend the #1 terminal back to its original position, it will break. Anyway now I can run the fogs any time I want and they shut off with the ignition so if you forget them you won't kill the battery.
Something cool I did notice was when you pull the stalk to flash the high beams, the fogs go out.
The switch does this by removing the ground to the fogs when pulling the stalk. It really gets your attention when they flip back and forth.
Let me know if you need more info,
Lex Pilot