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artinist

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  • Lexus Model
    1999 RX300

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  1. i have always changed oil at 3000 miles on mine. having worked on my cars for a long time, it seems like a very stupid idea to let the car run on the same oil for much more than 3000 miles much less the 7500 miles like some honda engine stickers suggest. i want to see the moron who came up with that idea to drain the nasty black oil after 4000 miles and see how much polutents there are in it and then pour it back in the engine and drive it for another 4000 miles without even changing filter.
  2. how much is the dealer charging for programing and cutting a key? the blank keys are $50 on ebay and i wanted to get a spare made. thanks, fyi: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7935907528&rd=1
  3. i have heard of a similar problem. in that case, if you pressed the lock button on the remote and lock the car, a few seconds later, it would lock again by itselfs. disconnect the battery, press the brake lights and reconnect the battery see if it helps.
  4. lexus parts dept = toyota parts dept + 2 table spoon of rip off no difference in parts
  5. a quick way to check the alternator is to: 1. start the car 2. disconnect the battery 3. turn on the headlights 4. step on the brakes. if the car is still running, most likely the alternator is working just fine and its just the battery that is not taking charge so get a new battery
  6. hmm, go to autozone and get a bosch sensor for probably 1/3 the price. bosch, ND or NGK oxygen sensors are top of the line. toyota probaly uses one from them anyway.
  7. i am one of those people who had a transmission failure. those cases where the car stops and just revs are due to the strainer clogging with metal flakes and no oil pressure gets to the tranny. the oil is no big deal i have found. the type T 4 is not really any different than the regular dextron III. its just their way of their continious rip off. i talked to several tranny shops about this and they all said they use regular dexron III all day in these and they wouldn't do it if they wanted to stay in business and give a 12 month warranty. my problem actually started shortly after I changed the oil without dropping the pan. and yes i did use toyota oil. my mechanic had an inside contact with the service center who services and certifies these transmissions. supposedly my new tranny does not suffer from the flaw that makes these things break so quickly. as for the oil change, never ever change the oil without dropping the pan and changing the filter. yes, there supposedly is no filter in this tranny but thats BS. there is a metal mesh strainer that has to come off and cleaned. actually this screen has been upgraded by a new filter design with a fabric material. its around $20 for the new filter and droping the pan will let you know whats going on inside the tranny.
  8. my ES300 had 167k miles when i sold it. it ran like brand new. the longavity of the timing belt also has to do with the weather conditions. here in california, they tend to last longer than where there are cold winters. just take off the cover and using a little mechanics or dentists mirror look at both sides of the belt and see if there are any signs of age on the belt. when they get brittle, they form cracks on the outside. also looks for missing teeth on the inside. in most cases, if the belt visually looks new, there isn't a rush to change it.
  9. if its anything like mine, then the oil filter gets clogged and transmissoin is starved of oil. then the condition worsens quickly after that if its not taken care of properly. either get the filter and oil and take it to your mechanic or just have the dealer change the oil for you. make sure they replace the filter. there is a newer design filter. the older one that the car came with has a metal screen. the newer one is a smongy material. by dropping the pan, it removed approximatly 1 gallon of oil which will need to be replace. might as well have the dealer do it.
  10. @#!$#!@$@#$ piece of crap. my transmission just broke. about a month ago, when i first started the car and put it in drive, the car woudl only barely move forward. it put it in park, turned it off and turned it back on and it was ok. thought nothing of it. it has been great since then. last week the car started to make a whining noise in the mornings and i thought it might be the belts. then yesterday, while driving, the car just started to slow down and it stopped. doesnt move in any gear, like its in neutral. WTF? the whining noise is worse now. took it to a transmission shop, they thought the oil pick up or the filter might have been messed up but nope. its something inside and needs an overhaul. $3000 was the price of this shop. I found a used one for $1300 but i will look around more. glfn10s, what did AAMCO find out about your car?
  11. ya it turns out that toyota has a monopoly on this specially formulated ATF. a friend of mine happend to be the service manager at the local delaer. all they do is a stright fill and drain. the filter does not require replacement. in cases where the oil is sludgy, they recommend buying a gasket for the oil pan so that it can be removed and cleaned of any metal shavings. as for the oil, its sold in a gallon and is 27 freakin dollars. yes its still dino-based which should cost $5. it a toyota part and the parts sales guy said its a few dollars cheaper at the toyota dealer. oh i did check around a bit, mobile has no compatible fluids and valvoline said something on their website about being toyota compatible but no mention of it being specifically TYPE T-IV compatible so its better to be safe than sorry. those of you who are having tranni problems should fill and drain once and then a 2nd time after some driving so that all of the previous oil gets out, and hopefully that will help your situation.
  12. flush and drain once and drive around a little and flush and drain a 2nd time. when I do mind, I do it the same time as an oil change and I do the 2nd fill and drain at my next oil change. there is no way any machine can drain the fluid left in the torque converter. all the dealer does is a straight fill and drain, I just asked them, my friend is the service manager there. use nothing but the factory oil in these trannies, they are very picky. its a little pricey, but its a few dollars cheaper at the toyota dealer.
  13. those !Removed! at toyota have tried to monopolize the market with their speicially formulated ATF. they are selling thier crap for almost $7 a quart for regular dino-oil, and no I dont recommend changing to synthetics on these trannies. i was reading around and there was a slight mention on the valvoline website as being compatible with toyota but I am not taking that chance since it is not written anywhere in the container as being type T-IV compatible.
  14. you wont find turbo kits of the sort now or in the future. the only thing that should be an easy thing to adapt is a supercharger kit that was out for the toyota camry and solara serveral year ago. http://www.toyotaparts4u.com/solara_&_camr...upercharger.htm
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