mann777

He will repair it, but the TSB warranty will not be, I have done this and the cost was pretty meager. So I assume you should not have any issue.

Check you Height Control Solenoid has moisture intrusion, then they die slowly, time for replacement.. The pump will work, but not the height control. Expensive part, but still do a bit of troubleshooting then conclude I would from a good Auto elect.

They are called as Running Board Rocker Panel Moulding Clips. There was TSB issued to improve the condition of the clips as the earlier ones used to give away. 75867--60020--C1 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Black) 2 75867--60020--B2 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Silver) 2 75867--60020--B3 Same Clip, Rocker Panel Molding (Gray) 2 Running Board Revised Clip.pdf

The cause was a defective component during installation, and lexus issued a TSB and here is the corrective measure you can take it to a mechanic if youare out of warranty or have the dealer do the job ( vice-versa). Hope it helps. AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf

check out the TSB, hope this helps. Rattle.pdf

The Rattle noise, Lexus issued a TSB to this effect, have a look, hope this solves the rattle problem. if you are under warranty, take a copy of this TSB and ask the dealer to have this complied. Otherwise you may have to do it your self seeing the TSB from a private garage. Rattle.pdf

Check the TSB, hope this resolves. AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf

Yes, you seem to have a RX..and there was a TSB to that defect arising out of RX, I dont see your model, but the TSB was effective for 07 models RX and the solution was to replace the AC amplifier. The TSB is attached. Hope the info helps AC lite Blinking on RX.pdf

If you plan to keep the vehicle for awhile, I would suggest keeping the services at your Lexus dealer. I took the bite at a $2800 bill last month for the 60k check up and the timing belt. It's worth it because I would never trust the outside shops to service a $50k vehicle like this. This car has too many sensors and computers that outside shops may not be familiar with. Dens...I am really surprised after you have mentioned that to stick with the dealer, look here you have quoted $2800 for a 60K check up job, and replacement of timing belt, Even the manufacturer does not suggest to replace at 60K, so the dealer has ripped you to do this job so early, unlike a 90k job wherein the timing belt are replaced.

if you want to take the gamble then you should focus more on the T/Belt Tensioner Assy and the Chain tensioner ( regular visual inspection once after it crosses 100k) as that is the root cause for having the T,belt life depletion, As the spring tensile within becomes weak, it has a direct impact on the T/Belt life expectancy. The belt wear & tear is faster, that is why the whole lot set is asked to replace along with the T/Belt.

Since you have already covered on the Timing belt, I would not go into the detail. Now coming to the replacement of Crank Seal, the replacement is only done when there is a oil leak. The seepage starts around the main pulley towards the bottom of the engine. To replace it is not rocket science, Yes there are few obtacles that needs to be removed in order to have a decent space for the removal of the main pulley, All you need is a crankshaft pulleypuller. Now one thing is quite important to note while using this tool, the seal is rite behind the pulley once removed, so this has to be done quite slowly, by giving a few taps( wood mallet or fibre) around quite mild, so that you dont damage the surface and and then you slide the new one in and tap it evenly into place. The Cams replacement I have not heard of replacement even on high mileage, unless you have a total dead compression, My LS400 has reached 323000 miles and to date I have not done anything to it, and rest replacement as per the books have stuck to it, and still runs like a top.

Open your Engine Cover and try & replace the Ventiltion Valve and the hose together as sometimes carbon deposits does not allow the hot air to escape and manifold becomes clogged. The cost is less that 50 buck both. and you can do it by yourself, Time required - 20 mts.

I had the OEM for 6 years, and recently replaced with Optima Red Top 35(8020-164)So far so good, Lot of good reviews on Optima, So I went in. Also nothing bad on the Toyota OEM ones.

Not sure I think maybe the cluster it is the immobilizer that he is talking about, that has got activated. It is something to do if he has a duplicate key and the transponder within is not communicating to the ECM with the ID codes of the key chip. This activated the security system. The key with an car image embedded is on the cluster blinking.

Go to Autozone and they can do it via the scan tool.( It is free )