Arkansawyer

Honestly Nik I don't remember where I bought the strut bushings. Seems like I looked them up on one of the online Lexus parts places. Sorry I'm not much help.

Honestly I probably won't go through the cost and time to replace every bulb with OEM as I had replaced every bulb with aftermarket and would have to change every single one. I'll just live with the light on the dash. BTW, its good to be back on this board for a bit after a long stint away.

Apologies that I never updated my results with replacing the alternator. As luck would have it the alternator did not cause the light to go away. It is my belief that since I replaced all the bulbs with non OEM it is causing this light. The electrical draw from the non OEM is different enough to trigger the light. My guess is that replacing bulbs with OEM will keep the light from coming on. Just a wild guess on my part.

Man I'm not much help as I can't remember exactly how I loosened the crossmember. Just know that I did. Glad to hear you have the car on the frame rails as I believe I told you incorrectly in my PM to you. From looking under the car it seem that there are only four bolts holding the crossmember on. Wish I could be of more help......or have a better memory.

Gumart just sent a reply to your PM. Should have read this thread before I sent. Wasn't sure what you were doing. Yes IIRC as long as you have the engine supported you are fine to remove the crossmember. Not sure why yours is not dropping. I've gone out to the garage to see if I could remember exactly what I did and am having trouble. I know for a fact that I jacked up the engine to get the mounts out.

Did them myself so I'm not sure what a mechanic would charge. Of all the things I've replaced on the LS this was probably the most diffiucult. Difficult because it was time consuming and tedious. The driver's side nut I could only turn a 1/4 or less at a time. Lying on my back with my hand all contorted was just a pain to me. But if I can do anybody can, IMO.

Mine was also giving the "shake on start up" bit. Replaced the motor mounts and no more issues.

SInce they were working on the front part of the engine.....Ima gonna guess ....fan clutch.

Northwest AR...... more specifically Rogers.

........or ko90ls if you could just stop by monarch's place.

Surely you jest!

A puller sits behind the radiator (engine side) and creates a bit of a vacuum to pull the air into the radiator. A pusher is what is currently on the car to help the condensor keep the A/C air cold, and to a lessor extent cooling for the radiator in an extreme condition. The puller draws air through the radiator whereas the pusher forces air into the radiator. On an auto where the radiator is in front the air is already there it just needs to be directed to the radiator. To put it plainly its easier to pull a string than to push it. Hope that helps.

My personal opinion and what I did with my alternator was to take the original alt and have it rebuilt. In my case I bought a factory used alt. and had it rebuilt while I ran on the old one that was on its way out. Kinda like OEM lite. Still have my original alt that if and when I need another will just do the same. ....another dos centavos.

If need be I think I will go with an electric puller fan. But will keep an eye on everything. I drove 80 miles to the office this morn and did not see the needle budge. Temps this morning were approx. 55 degrees.

Alright guys I had pretty much decided that my fan clutch was toast (oil on backside of clutch shaft, freely spins even after long drive) so this weekend I removed it. Just to make sure the clutch was bad I tested it after removing. Held a flame under the thermostatic coil for a good while then "spun" the clutch and there was no noticeable engagement or resistance. Got it up to operating temps and the needle is exactly where it has been with the fan mounted. Have read where others have done this with no issues. Ready to be flamed. :whistles: