Leadfoot

Hey Ryan, The foot mechanism on my 1992 parking brake sometimes sticks a bit, even when the brake is "off". When I release the hand lever I also have to kick my toe under the foot lever and lift a bit to unstick, hey presto light goes out. The parking light is a full red square with a P in it. The brake light circuit fault sensor is an exclaimation mark with brackets = (!) if thats showing the ECU has detected the wrong circuit resistance and thinks there is a bust bulb. The key you have is the Valet key, so when you drop your car off at the golf course no-one can ever get into your trunk with your keys! Have fun!

Depending on the model you have it may be related to the ECU. There was a series of ECU's on the 95-96 years that had idle problems if your aircon was OFF. The problem does not get worse, but it is still a danger/hassle. The car started right back up again and didn't play up right after did it? Try with the AC on and see if it happens again in the same situation. For the full details refer the following thread; http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...9&hl=stalls

I would hazard a guess that a brake caliper may be playing up. Do you feel it in the drivers wheel when it happens? Since stopping cures it that is a big clue. The fact that it occurs when you are accelerating to a high speed is due to the fact that you probably won't notice it at slow speed since the LS has progressive power steering, the faster you go the less assist you get and the more "feel" you will have. If there is an unbalance due to brakes then the power steering could act like a big damper. Worth checking out next time you have your disc pads inspected to see how evenly they are wearing. Sorry I haven't had any experience of this directly, hopefully someone will chime in!

Please humour me and just confirm that the Check Engine Light actually lights when the ignition is switched on, I remember reading one thread where the bulb was blown and that threw everyone! Normal output is a steady flashing sequence. You said no lights above, just want to eliminate the obvious, no disrespect to your mechanical ability! It may be related to the throttle position sensor, please check as per the attached doc. Fuel issues do not tend to come up on the computer system so I think you may be right there. The 92 has a separate cold start injector system that will aid cold running, and it could be a problem with this that is causing the misfire once the system has warmed up and its getting over fueled. When your car misfires is there a strong fuel smell from the exhaust pipes? When was the fuel filter last changed? Is there is stong pulse on the fuel damper on the fuel rail? TPS.pdf

My '92 has a trans malfunction in the 1-2 solenoid that also skips second gear sometimes. The OD light will blink at a steady rate when the computer detects a fault while driving, but apparently it takes two driving cycles before it signals to you according to the manual. To read the trans codes you have to jump the terminals (can't remember which ones but you know anyway) You read the error codes for the transmission the same as for the check engine light, count the flashes of the OD light. Let us know what it says, mine has been faulty for 18 months now ( I can live without 2nd occasionally!)

Time for an update. After being unable to source a RHD cluster anywhere in the asia-pacific area I bought an instrument cluster from a wrecked 2000 LS400 in the UK. I carried the damn thing home to NZ in my hand luggage. Not one customs or security person asked me what it was. So the good news, I now have a euro spec cluster working perfectly in an australasian spec car, no problems. Only took me 5 months to get fixed.......... Sure is nice to be back on the road.

Did you use new gaskets on the fuel pipe union joints? The manual states the gaskets are not reuseable, however I have not had to do this job (thankfully, it looks involved) so I don't know what the gaskets are made off. Some crushable ones will leak when reused even when you have done the connection up tight. I don't think a gunk fix is a good idea other than for a temporary "get it home" scenario. I hope you get to the cause soon.

Hehehe thought that might get a bite. Excellent use of the TLA (three letter acronym), I am awarding full points. Sorry about the keg of budweiser, its nearly all gone....

We would all appreciate a demonstration of this technique, could you post it on Youtube? Thanks.

Sorry, I don't have direct experience with this one (yet). Attached is a rough guide to checking the fuel pressure in the line, the proper way is to hook up a gauge but this is really easy. Refer picture below. The special service tool is a piece of wire that jumpers the 12V at the B terminal of the check connector to the pump. Please be very careful as the instructions highlight, as the 12V will harm circuits on the other terminals if you accidentally contact them. I have looked through the manual and the most common cause of trouble starting hot is the water temp sensor, followed by vacuum leakage, then fuel quality. If you can start eliminating these factors you will hopefully solve it. The water temp sensor is listed as quite an involved job, eliminate the other 2 first. If you are still stalling on acceleration when hot (I don't know how the tank level affects this) then come back for more help.

Sorry, the manual is over the top, you do not need to remove the valvebody. Jeff is right, you only need to do a few of the steps listed. Also his advice to change both #1 & # 2 at the same time makes some good sense. They are the same part number and you cannot mix them up. I attached the full valvebody section because you get the bolt torques and a good overview of the system (plus someone in the future may reference this thread and find it useful).

Attached below are the workshop instructions for my '92, its a job I would do myself if I had all the tools, a comfortable clean dry warm place to work and a free day. Very satisfying knowing its all done the way you like, and you save some money too. I have a sticky solenoid also, but mine has only been playing up for just over a year and a half now....... The transmission is very clever and when it detects a malfunction it changes the valve actuation method and trys its best to mask the fault. . valvebody.pdf

Have you got both the master key and valet key? The valet key won't open the trunk manually, and if the trunk lock is on the release latch inside won't work either (especially if the battery is dead). Try the other keys manually in the trunk if you have them.

Hi Eddie, I don't know how much time it would take someone but they have to completely dismantle the VVTI cam controller and remove the cam covers to get to the seals. I was contemplating doing this job, even bought the seals, but by the time I read the procedure I had chickened out. Below is a picture of the camshaft seal position. The unfortunate thing is they are behind the VVTI camshaft timing unit and also under a large bearing cap, as seen in the pictures from the manual. My advice is this job should only be attacked if leakage is actually seen from the seals. I would have to have a lot of trust in the shop before I would let them loose on something this complicated. Can you give us some history on the car and why you are wanting this work done? Thanks.

Pretty sure its the ones on the left. Check for fraying, exposed or broken conductors. Should be obvious.