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I only say that because when I replaced my wires, I put in one of my rotors 180 degrees off and the car did start and run with it that way (was running on 4 cylinders). I made that very mistake myself. I realised something was wrong because my cat's were getting too hot and i tested to find which rotor was in wrong using the method i described. The car will run with the messed up one disconnected but not with the proper one disconnected. If it runs with either one disconnected they're both fine and this issue is something else. I suggest it because it's an easy test. Just unplug the coils one at a time.

So all this conflicting data got me curious so I headed to my car and found that the previous owner received a handout maintenance schedule from Lexus some time after 1999 as it is labeled "1999 and prior model year vehicles." Again, the data doesn't match what the website said. This schedule actually specifies different replacement schedules for platinum plugs vs iridium plugs. I do find that every 3 years or 48,000km for the air filter to be absurd. I'd assume we can take this one as being correct; at least for the cars 1999 and older. NOTE: mileages are in KM (Canadian car). Maintenance_Schedule_in_print_small.pdf

CHecking the one for the 2000 model, it also shows a 60,000 mile schedule for the spark plugs.

Darn, sorry. For some reason I assumed he had a 1st gen. Here's the version for a 2003 LS. 2003_maintenance_intervals.pdf

The maintenance schedule on edmunds DOES NOT match the maintenance schedule in the maintenance booklet for my 2000 LS400. From AARC attached. scheduled_maintenance_intervals.pdf

I get the same thing from mine on humid days. When I lived in Trinidad it was the norm (humidity always around and over 90%). It's like opening your fridge on a humid day, the low temp in the humid air essentially makes the water vapour in the air into clouds.

I would suspect that you may have either wired the distributors incorrectly or put one of the rotors in wrong (180 degrees off) so the spark timing is incorrect on 4 cylinders. Easiest test is to go in and unplug one of the two coils and attempt to start the car. If it will run with either one of them out then it's wired correctly and the issue is elsewhere. If it will run with one unplugged but when the other is unplugged it will not start, that means that the one that it would run alone with is okay and the other has an issue (that sentence will make sense after a couple reads).

They're about the same size as stock but look so different. Crazy what a difference round vs oval makes.

You should just need to remove the ends to install a one piece. Shouldn't be terrible.

Valued at over $700 too!

You guys are GENIOUS! Never knew about car-part and just tried it. Found seats and everything for my 94 right near me. And I live in Ontario; I could never find anything. Damn I love this club!

Fact is though, most of what is sold as "injector cleaner" is just a small bottle of kerosine anyway.

If it's on permanently there's an issue. These are known to give a false positive at times just after a cold start but in that case it generally turns off after about 20 seconds.

Essentially there are 2 wires in the sensor. When the brakes are worn the sensor rubs on the rotor, breaking the connection between the wires. To bypass the sensor, thus disabling the warning light, simply expose the wire (most people cut off the top of the sensor and strip the plastic housing off the wire) and connect the wires, closing the circuit. The light will go off.

Unless you happen to be in Canada where I was quoted a whoping $110 each.