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CELSI0R

Regular Member
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CELSI0R last won the day on March 16

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About CELSI0R

  • Rank
    Club Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS 400
  • Lexus Year
    1991
  • Location
    New Jersey (NJ)

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  1. Here is a copy of the tutorial from an archived version on ClubLexus. As a precaution, make sure you read through everything before attempting. ------ REVISED *For people with some technical knowledge only* Do this at your own risk!* Hi, My name is Rice. I wasn't going to pay $1200 to get my 93 LS 400 Lexus cluster to stop flickering and my gas gauge working again, so here is my permanent fix. It cost me 3 or 4 bucks! Here is my cluster. I just took it out and I'am ready to get to work! The whole job took me 12-15 mins, but I was a technician for like 15 years so please take your time! Back of the cluster. take the white plastic cover off. It is held together with 10 or so screws! I bought these capacitors from Frys electronics. If you don't have a Frys near you then hop your !Removed! on www.Frys.com and order them by the part numbers provided below! The labels with prices and part numbers Unsolder (from the top side) capacitor from c212 that is located on the small board and replace with a 10 uf (10mfd) 16 volt capacitor. Do the same for c142 and c147 located on the big board! C142 is to be replaced with new capacitor 4.7 Uf 25 volt and c147 is to be replaced with 10uf 50 volt. This capacitor is super small: Bend and cut the legs into feet like the one below Now, solder on the new capacitor, but don't burn yourself with the iron! Like the picture below says, I screwed up and ripped off the copper lead by rushing, so I took a probe and scratched the green coating off the board so that I could have a new spot to solder. Take your time, because the copper leads are fragile. You do not want to make this mistake. Looks great and doesn't flicker anymore, cold or hot! I hope I don't make the dudes that charge hella money on eBay mad. As always I had a blast teaching you something new! Thank you for reading! Rice ------ Source: Part 1: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/514164-easy-93-94-ls400-3-00-cluster-flicker-and-gas-needle-fix-6.html#post8949589 Part 2: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/514164-easy-93-94-ls400-3-00-cluster-flicker-and-gas-needle-fix-7.html#post8949597 Part 3: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/514164-easy-93-94-ls400-3-00-cluster-flicker-and-gas-needle-fix-7.html#post8949601
  2. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    Hello toothguy57, It is possible. Check out this tutorial from LexLS: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/trailerhitch.html The parts needed are linked in the tutorial and will cost around $110. I cannot vouch for myself, but it worked very well for him. Note that you will need to modify some of the car's parts and perform electrical work. A few pieces, such as the lower bumper trim, were modified in the tutorial but could just be left off of the car instead (gives the option to revert to a stock appearance). I would recommend applying tape before cutting surfaces, such as the painted bumper, to prevent peeling or excessive damage. If you're going to be towing very heavy items (like a boat), you may also want to consider a transmission cooler. I don't know of any details regarding the installation for that, but there may be resources around.
  3. Ah, okay. I was confused by the images and thought the car was still damaged. After conducting further research, sites such as Kelley Blue Book value the car at around $4k in 'Good condition,' while an appraisal for a GS Sport design model in 'Very Good condition' is valued near $4.5k. Considering you had the repairs completed and that the job looks like it was done very well, $5k does not sound like a bad asking price. However, I would be hesitant to go below $4k, because basic maintenance (fluids and filters) is relatively inexpensive and the car has low miles. If you list it for $5k or sell it this weekend, you could try to get the buyer to meet you in the middle at $4.5k, while keeping $4k as your lowest price.
  4. Sorry to hear about the accident; hope everyone was okay. I'm not as familiar with the GS models, but I thought I would chime in. I don't know if there are options that are listed to come with the Sports design model, but it would be helpful if you listed what the car is equipped with (optional alloys, leather seats, heated seats, Mark Levinson stereo system, rear spoiler, etc?). Also, how rare is the Sports design model? What makes it different from a regular GS 300? The biggest problem that you have is the front end damage. If someone wants to fix the car, they need to replace at least the front bumper, front bumper trim, hood, and grille. If the damage is bad enough, the radiator fans, radiator, and the radiator core support need to be replaced too. Does the car still drive without overheating? Do you have a picture of the front of the car with the hood open? If the core support is damaged, it could be tough to get beyond $3500 - $4000 for the car, because repairs could be at least $2k-$3k to weld a new support in, replace all of the parts, and blend the paint.
  5. 91 Celsior/LS400 No fuel

    Excellent. Glad to hear you found the culprit. That's very low miles for a Celsior - good find. Keep us posted on your progress.
  6. 91 Celsior/LS400 No fuel

    Okay. If there is no fuel pressure measured, go ahead and check the electronic fuel injection (EFI) fuse and relay in the engine bay fuse box: Here is a diagram of the fuse and relay locations in that box. Note that this diagram is also on the underside of the fuse box cover, which can be removed by unscrewing the two screws that hold it in. If these are good, go ahead and check the wiring that leads to the fuel pump. Here is an electrical diagram for the fuel pump system: See ChrisFix's video that I posted for reference on how to do these troubleshooting procedures if you are not sure.. There are also plenty of resources online for relay, fuse, and wiring testing.
  7. 91 Celsior/LS400 No fuel

    Hi Moarpower, Did you check for fuel pressure? There are a few steps you can take to determine if there is a problem with the wiring, relays, or the fuel pump itself. See this if you don't know how to check for fuel pressure: PROCEDURE 1. Verify the battery voltage is above 12 volts. 2. Disconnect negative (-) terminal cable from the battery. CAUTION: Work must be started after 90 seconds from the time the ignition switch is turned to the LOCK position and the negative (-) terminal cable is disconnected from the battery. 3. Remove the union bolt holding the left hand delivery pipe to the rear fuel pipe. Remove the 2 gaskets. CAUTION: Put a shop towel under the delivery pipe. Slowly loosen the union bolt. 4. Install the rear fuel pipe and pressure gauge to the left hand delivery pipe with 3 new gaskets and the union bolt. (SST 09268-45012) Here are some useful videos for you:
  8. Opinions Wanted: Buying a 1996 Lexus LS400

    Even if the belt is fine, I would replace the timing belt on any LS 400 that is 1995 or newer. Despite the low mileage, the rubber is 21 years old on that car. 1990-1994 LS 400s had non-interference engines, while 1995+ LS cars have interference engines. This means that if the belt breaks on a 1995+, the pistons could smash the valves in the engine... This would cost a lot more than just taking care of the belt and pulleys. If you have a shop do vehicle maintenance for you, see if you could get the seller to lower the price so you can pay for the job. You might as well consider replacing the water pump too while you're doing the belt, because it's a pain to tear down the engine multiple times.
  9. Tachomete reading 50% of actual engine speed

    I had the same problem on my 1991. It is more than likely that the needle is loose and needs to be reconnected to the motor unit it is a part of. The repair a delicate procedure, but it is doable. Take a look at my post here, where I explain a fix for this condition. This is specifically where the needle sits below the 0 marker when the engine is off. If your needle does not sit below zero when the cluster is on or off (with the engine off), this solution may or may not work. If you attempt this procedure, take your time and make sure to keep the gauge cluster surface clean of oils, etc.
  10. One owner 1994, LS400, for Sale

    Your car is in museum condition. I hope it goes to a good home that takes care of it as well as you and your wife did since new. I wonder if the Toyota USA museum would be interested... Good luck with the sale.
  11. Headlight Alignment

    I went back to do the headlight alignment again. Here are some useful details for any UCF10/11 1990-1994 owners attempting this job: To adjust the horizontal aiming of your headlight, remove the radiator core support hole plug, which will expose the A-bolt (see below diagram): The hole plug in the radiator core support looks like this: To remove this plug, simply slide your fingers under the outer edge, squeeze it slightly, and pull upward. Once this is removed, you will see the horizontal adjustment screw (A-bolt) for your headlight: Turning the A-bolt clockwise or counterclockwise will adjust the beam left or right. [I did not notice a change in the beam pattern when I turned the A-bolt. If notice which way the light moves when the screw is turned clockwise, please reply to this post] The B-bolt adjust the height of the headlight aiming. Turning the B-bolt clockwise will move the entire headlight and the beam upward, and turning the bolt counterclockwise will move the headlight down. NOTE: It will take several turns in order to begin to notice a difference in beam pattern aiming and/or actual movement in the lens. If you don't see any changes after about 10 or more turns of your screwdriver, the adjustment gear might be stuck or broken. You can keep trying to turn it, to see if it changes. Do not rush the process, or you may strip the gears. You may hear some slight rubbing when rotating the B-bolt.
  12. Headlight Alignment

    Hi again Spartan, Just curious, did you have to turn the adjustment screw a lot to notice a difference in the horizontal beam aiming when you did your headlight alignment? I'm not sure if I'm seeing any difference in the headlight aiming, as I turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise. Maybe it's already maxxed out in one direction and I can't move it anymore(?). Also, did you notice if turning the adjustment screw clockwise moved the headlight left or right? This question is not as important as the previous one, but any help is appreciated!
  13. What is your MPG?

    I usually average around 19-20 MPG in my 1991. This is from approximately 40% city, 60% highway driving.
  14. Here is a DIY fix that was also posted on the Club Lexus forum at some point in time. Note to all readers: It is ILLEGAL to alter the mileage on your odometer to reflect differently than the actual mileage on your vehicle without disclosing this information. I nor the creator of this video take responsibility for any consequences as a result of your actions. If you are performing this DIY, it should be to set the mileage to match that of your vehicle, should the original be lost or if the cluster is swapped with another. Full documentation here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/740730-diy-odometer-reprogramming.html
  15. Headlight Alignment

    Wow, thank you very much for all of the information, Spartan0536! I did not know those details about halogen bulb illumination. I'm sure this is going to help plenty of other owners with different setups, too. I hope to get the chance to do the headlight alignment on my car soon..