AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


CELSI0R

Regular Member
  • Content count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

CELSI0R last won the day on March 16

CELSI0R had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About CELSI0R

  • Rank
    Club Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    _

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS 400
  • Lexus Year
    1991
  • Location
    New Jersey (NJ)

Recent Profile Visitors

902 profile views
  1. Even if the belt is fine, I would replace the timing belt on any LS 400 that is 1995 or newer. Despite the low mileage, the rubber is 21 years old on that car. 1990-1994 LS 400s had non-interference engines, while 1995+ LS cars have interference engines. This means that if the belt breaks on a 1995+, the pistons could smash the valves in the engine... This would cost a lot more than just taking care of the belt and pulleys. If you have a shop do vehicle maintenance for you, see if you could get the seller to lower the price so you can pay for the job. You might as well consider replacing the water pump too while you're doing the belt, because it's a pain to tear down the engine multiple times.
  2. I had the same problem on my 1991. It is more than likely that the needle is loose and needs to be reconnected to the motor unit it is a part of. The repair a delicate procedure, but it is doable. Take a look at my post here, where I explain a fix for this condition. This is specifically where the needle sits below the 0 marker when the engine is off. If your needle does not sit below zero when the cluster is on or off (with the engine off), this solution may or may not work. If you attempt this procedure, take your time and make sure to keep the gauge cluster surface clean of oils, etc.
  3. Your car is in museum condition. I hope it goes to a good home that takes care of it as well as you and your wife did since new. I wonder if the Toyota USA museum would be interested... Good luck with the sale.
  4. I went back to do the headlight alignment again. Here are some useful details for any UCF10/11 1990-1994 owners attempting this job: To adjust the horizontal aiming of your headlight, remove the radiator core support hole plug, which will expose the A-bolt (see below diagram): The hole plug in the radiator core support looks like this: To remove this plug, simply slide your fingers under the outer edge, squeeze it slightly, and pull upward. Once this is removed, you will see the horizontal adjustment screw (A-bolt) for your headlight: Turning the A-bolt clockwise or counterclockwise will adjust the beam left or right. [I did not notice a change in the beam pattern when I turned the A-bolt. If notice which way the light moves when the screw is turned clockwise, please reply to this post] The B-bolt adjust the height of the headlight aiming. Turning the B-bolt clockwise will move the entire headlight and the beam upward, and turning the bolt counterclockwise will move the headlight down. NOTE: It will take several turns in order to begin to notice a difference in beam pattern aiming and/or actual movement in the lens. If you don't see any changes after about 10 or more turns of your screwdriver, the adjustment gear might be stuck or broken. You can keep trying to turn it, to see if it changes. Do not rush the process, or you may strip the gears. You may hear some slight rubbing when rotating the B-bolt.
  5. Hi again Spartan, Just curious, did you have to turn the adjustment screw a lot to notice a difference in the horizontal beam aiming when you did your headlight alignment? I'm not sure if I'm seeing any difference in the headlight aiming, as I turn the screw clockwise or counterclockwise. Maybe it's already maxxed out in one direction and I can't move it anymore(?). Also, did you notice if turning the adjustment screw clockwise moved the headlight left or right? This question is not as important as the previous one, but any help is appreciated!
  6. I usually average around 19-20 MPG in my 1991. This is from approximately 40% city, 60% highway driving.
  7. Here is a DIY fix that was also posted on the Club Lexus forum at some point in time. Note to all readers: It is ILLEGAL to alter the mileage on your odometer to reflect differently than the actual mileage on your vehicle without disclosing this information. I nor the creator of this video take responsibility for any consequences as a result of your actions. If you are performing this DIY, it should be to set the mileage to match that of your vehicle, should the original be lost or if the cluster is swapped with another. Full documentation here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/740730-diy-odometer-reprogramming.html
  8. Wow, thank you very much for all of the information, Spartan0536! I did not know those details about halogen bulb illumination. I'm sure this is going to help plenty of other owners with different setups, too. I hope to get the chance to do the headlight alignment on my car soon..
  9. Hi Squirralien, Here is a fix for the airbag light. It's simple and just requires jumper wires. As for your cluster, only 1993-1994 clusters are compatible. I don't know of any swaps from other model years.
  10. Hello, I have been searching online recently for more details about the headlight alignment procedure, as I would like to check and re-align the headlights on my 1991 LS 400. However, I have been quite confused by the results and would like some more clarification about the process. As described in the shop diagram image I attached, the A-bolt is for horizontal adjustment, and the B-bolt is for vertical adjustment. Do both of these bolts move the actual headlight lens or just the bulb inside? What I mean by this is, when you turn the A-bolt, can you see a visible change in the headlight moving left or right (with the lights off), and when you turn the B-bolt, can you see the headlight itself moving up or down? Of course, I will be aligning the lights based off of where the beams are hitting a wall, opposite the front of the car, but I don't want to make the lenses look crooked as a result. Also, when removing the rubber cover on the radiator support for the A-bolt, I'm assuming you can pull it from the top using your fingers(?). Any clarification on this subject would be much appreciated. Thanks! Note, the second picture of the actual headlight is from this thread.
  11. Yeah. I've had a set of 1993-1994 rims for years, but never put them on for the same reasons. In terms of the shifter, as long as it doesn't wobble as if it's going to move into the next gear, it should be fine. Mine wobbles a little when sitting in any gear, but it's very minimal travel (a milimeter or two each way). You can tighten the linkage if you want to, but if it's not causing any problems now it should be fine.
  12. I can confirm 1993-2000 LS 400 rims all fit on the 1990-1992 LS. However, since they are 16 inch, the tires you will need to buy to get the same overall circumference as the originals will cost more. The tire size for 1993-2000 LS 400 models have a larger circumference overall, leading to inaccurate speed readings on 1990-1992 models. Changing the 1st gen brakes are more or less nitpicking. 1993-1994 have larger rotors and calipers, which makes braking stronger (this means you will need to change to 16" rims). Although, the dual piston calipers fitted on 1991-1992 models are very good. 1990 models have single piston calipers. Looking forward to seeing and reading about these updates!
  13. Your cluster actually appears to be fine. I noticed the tachometer needle is slightly below 0, but when the cluster is off, does it drop further below the 0 marker? If it does, it needs to be relocated. I would still have Tanin take a look, if it won't cost more, since you're sending it to have the odometer fixed.
  14. Sorry, I misunderstood. I don't know how those will differ, but I'm sure the Xenon bulbs will be fine. However, I would still not replace any of the bulbs listed on LexLS that could have negative effects on the cluster's performance. The electrical problems you're experiencing have come up due to wear and tear from the previous owner over the past 25 years. Even though it's a little tedious now, it will pay off in the long run. I went through similar repairs when I got my car 7 years ago, but all have been resolved and have not acted up since. As a cheaper alternative for the climate control, you could buy a working used unit online. A few are on Ebay. The faceplate and buttons can be swapped carefully, if you want to match the original pieces together.
  15. The odometer is definitely something that you want to keep synced with the car. Might as well have Tanin fix any and all problems with the cluster, since you're sending it to them. I don't believe modifying the cluster lights will affect anything; however, some lights cannot be changed. Tanin will definitely know what can and cannot be done. LexLS details this on his website. I have seen LED light mods for the interior and parking lights as well and have not heard of any negative side-effects, so it should be ok. The signals and brake lights are where problems usually occur.