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philmstar

Regular Member
  • Content count

    15
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About philmstar

  • Rank
    New Club Member
  • Birthday 03/31/1953

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Phil

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    LS400
  • Lexus Year
    2000
  • Location
    Oregon (OR)
  1. Thank you, I was advised it was my Front Driver side O2 Sensor by my local Toyota Dealership, who ran the diagnostic for me. I will check again before purchasing new Sensor. Only 80K but nearly 17 years old! :)
  2. Thanks Guys, info much appreciated.
  3. Thanks Bob, I thought that may be the case but I haven't looked underneath yet. The write ups referring to removing carpets etc. seem to be needed to access the plug/socket on the harness. Does that mean the Front (pre-cat) Sensor(s) plugs are actually accessible from below? Thanks again.
  4. Just found this post from 2007 "I have a 98 LS and I had to replace the left side first O2 sensor. I's under the seat your have to pull up the carpet and remove the gas pedal (just pull hard toward the seat it will pop off) the you will see the wire for it . Not a big job total of about 1 hour. I bought a Denso replacement for $65.00 no big deal I think the dealer wanted around $280.00 " That will teach me to search first before posting :( This is a G8 source of info, thank you ALL members.
  5. Hi Guys (& Gals) On my way up to Seattle airport to collect family when I got a engine management warning light. I "baby" my Lexy, so I pulled into a local Toyota dealership and had them run the diagnostic. It is my front (drivers side) O2 sensor. They stated car will still run fine (and it does) but I have lost the reading from that sensor and hence warnings etc. if Catalytic fails :) Typically I was charged $75 for running the test!!! (Sadly my tester was at home) and they proceeded to quote me $278 to order a replacement!!! I've been on several websites and found a variety of manufacturers Denso, Walker, Replacement? etc. and prices quoted from $200+ down to $45 for a pair (Driver & Passenger - front). I think I will replace both to be safe. My question is, can anyone recommend a good oem replacement and anything else I should be aware of when replacing them? Do I need to replace rear as well? Regards, Phil
  6. Glad to help, this Forum is GR8 for saving $$$ :)
  7. Eureka! After much investigation I have resolved my nagging "splash back" problem (Thanks to an in depth search on here!!!) See "craigamuir's" post 25120 dated Oct 28, 2005. "Last year my 2000 LS developed a problem when you tried to fill it with gas. As you pumped the gas in, much of it just sprayed back out. The dealer said that the charcoal cannister and the fuel filler valve needed replacing - $900. I paid for the repair. A few weeks ago the same problem repeated (or so I thought). I took it to a different dealer and told them it better not be the charcoal cannister or fuel filler valve. They pulled the shop manual on the car and began to search for the problem. 4 days later they called to say that they had solved the mystery. Apparently there's a rear drain hose for runoff water around the trunk area. The air release for the gas tank also vents into this drain line. Putting gas in the tank vents the air in the tank into the drain line. If the drain line gets clogged as mine was, the venting air causes the backed up water to gurgle and then spray out a drain hole just above and to the left of the main fuel filler hole. This makes it look like gas is coming back out when you put it in. Actually it's the backed up drain water in the line. The second dealer blew out the obstruction in the drain line with an air hose and now the car seems fine. The dealer said that they had never encountered the problem before." Note: The tank venting pipe actually feeds charcoal canister then joins vent/drain pipe to prevent any gases reaching outside (which would be illegal). I cleared debris from my drain pipe and issue solved! Seek and Ye shall find :)
  8. Hi All, Happy New Year! It's 6 months since I started this thread so I thought I would update. After my initial problems and investigation last Summer the problem just went away, perhaps due to more regular use of the car, the warmer summer weather or just luck? Anyway, no water coming back out of vent pipe on numerous refills. This holiday I made a couple of round trips from Oregon up to Vancouver, BC. Airport to collect family and had to drive through the Seattle rain :( Had to fill up on several occasions and, you guessed it, water burbling out of the vent hole in the upper left of the filler cap assembly? Again it was typically only about half a cupful, but is concerning as I would prefer to just have vapor/air! The car ran great 27mpg plus over 1500 miles of mainly I5 freeway cruising. No alarms, stuttering, poor starts etc. would just love to cure problem. Any new thoughts on my problem. Regards, Phil
  9. Clunkfish, that makes sense particularly when you think of oil spills at sea. Would that therefore mean that if you DID have water in your tank and I'm guessing the fuel intake/pump is mounted quite low for gauge reading etc. then you would have a major disaster fairly quickly, or would there have to be a lot of water below the fuel? I've always assumed the EVAP systems had two roles, 1. To remove and recycle gas vapours to the engine and 2.. To remove excess moisture/water/condensation from above/within the fuel sytem. I'm guessing it would NOT detect any water below the tank fuel?
  10. Bob, strange you should mention that. The Oregon Senate is actually voting through a Bill this Fall to allow Drivers to fill their own vehicles (At last!) I think that just leaves New Jersey as the only place in the USA you cannot.
  11. Yes, I've found a few EVAP diagrams for older (Pre 96) 400's and a diagram for a 2000 and there are indeed quite a few changes. I think a lot was due to tighter emmission rules being introduced and mine WAS originally sold in California! However they all seem to show vent pipe from the charcoal canister runs back to the fuel tank and a further two that run directly from the tank to the outside/air. I'm tempted to try and "Top it Up" to see if I can purge any/all moisture out. I certainly do not want water floating on top of my fuel waiting for me to one day run the tank dry! :(
  12. Thank You for the advice. I have just watched a video explaining how to clear/clean a Toyota Camry vent pipe and another that references problems with the Evap Solenoid., I am guessing the hole by the LS400 filler cap is AFTER the Charcoal Filter else it would just be venting vapour? If it is after then the water could have built up in the pipe from the canister over time and is only being purged now I am filling the car regularly? The fact it is being forced out, makes me think system is only blocked with water, does that make sense?
  13. Looking for advice on a strange problem. I purchased my 2000 LS a few weeks ago, it only has 72K on it and the Lexus History looks good. However I tried to fill her up the other day and as soon as the Guy (We still cannot fill our own cars in Oregon!) tried to put the gas in, it started to blow back. Further investigation revealed it was coming out of a small vent hole to the upper left of the filling pipe. He managed to squeeze a few gallons in VERY slowly and I said I would investigate the problem. The Gas Station is a new Shell and the pumps are brand new and fairly powerful. Anyway reading on here and other Forums, it seems putting fuel in can be tedious due to the neck of the filler pipe and the newer gas pumps. Anyway I decided to try again today at a different station (Mobil) Same problem? Tried moving the nozzle sideways, upside down etc. but still got liquid back out of this vent. I say liquid, because on further investigation (smell/taste) revealed it is WATER! We managed to get the tank full and the ammount of water coming back out reduced considerably as the tank filled. (I'm guessing I have seen about a cupfull during both fills. I'm sure this is not common, but The car does have VERY low mileage and I'm guessing has been standing for a large percentage of it's life. The climate here is currently dry (till September) but high humidity at night and cars left outside are wet from dew in the mornings. What do you Guys think? Do I need to have the tank pulled and flushed or is this just the EVAP system working overtime? The car runs great with no alarms of any kind, except low fuel a few days ago which started my investigation?
  14. ;) Landar, Thanks for that, that is what I thought, I was just worried that as you need a "Master" to do the new key "Transponder Chip" teach to the Car (The Accelerator/Brake tap dance etc.) I was worried I might push my only master out of the current list if it was number 4! Anyway I can confirm, a blank with remote buttons off eBay ($28), sent to another eBay member for laser cutting ($32) and using the two methods off here to a) Program new Key Transponder and b) Program new Key remote buttons. and I now have a fully operational spare "Master" that unlocks manually/remote everything (even opens windows/moonroof etc.) and starts car. Very pleased and thank all contributers for the details :)
  15. Enjoying my LS