lexdog

Aawahaha thats funny I kept the Rx300 on a hi octane and synthetic diet, but it was setup for failure The rx300 was born with The Tranny Failure Disease and with all rx300's it was just a matter of time. Initially it was a P0768 Malfunction in solenoid D, that trigger the TFD We rushed the rx300 to a mechanic to perform Open tranny surgery and the bad solenoid was replaced, After a few days complications followed a block in one of the valve bodies so bypass surgery was required after intense week of work all seemed to be good and the Rx300 was recovering well 2 months later the tranny failed ;) The operation was successful, but the patient died.... I remember a thread (was it on this forum?) of someone replacing a dead RX300 transmission with a (only very slightly) used (2002?) Toyota Highlander transmission... said it was a perfect fit and cost in the $2Ks. There might yet be life after death. Yep I initially post the P0768 Malfunction here but I guess getting the tranny rebuilt was inevitable. The shop asking 4000 to rebuild the dealer says they want to look at it first but somewere around 5000 to 6000. Right now with work cutting back 4000 to 6000 in repairs is a bit much but 2k would be more manageable. Were would I start looking for a Highlander Tranny ???

Aawahaha thats funny I kept the Rx300 on a hi octane and synthetic diet, but it was setup for failure The rx300 was born with The Tranny Failure Disease and with all rx300's it was just a matter of time. Initially it was a P0768 Malfunction in solenoid D, that trigger the TFD We rushed the rx300 to a mechanic to perform Open tranny surgery and the bad solenoid was replaced, After a few days complications followed a block in one of the valve bodies so bypass surgery was required after intense week of work all seemed to be good and the Rx300 was recovering well 2 months later the tranny failed ;)

02 rx300 "Devoted to Family" and beloved family car, passed away Nov. 18 after a long battle with Tranny Failure Disease ( TFD ). The rx300 was surrounded by his driver and mechanic at his garage in salt lake city. On a daily commute the rx300 was traveling north bound when TFD overcome the rx300 and it lost all acceleration. Upon further inspection TFD had cased major damage resulting in complete failure. The rx300 possessed a love of life and touched everyone that drove with it. It will be remembered by its driver not only as the Honey Mobile but a best friend, a protector, a problem solver, an accomplice in mischief and a teacher of life's lessons. It lives on through it memories to whom drove it and rode in it Survived by its driver. The rx300 tranny was truly loved will be missed R.I.P LEXUS RX300 TRANSMISSION :(

OK so I got the rx300 back from the lexus dealer, the techs there told me they couldn't find any issues with the computer that they thought the issue was a foreign body in the valve body and wanted $500+ to just check the valve body. Took the Lex back AAMCO were since there the one's who were suppose the check the vale body in the first place, there now telling me they cant find any problems with the valve body that they did find some small metal fragments in the pan and I want to rebuild my tranny for $3800.00. Do get I pay another fee at another shop and hav them check the valve body or let aamco do the work. So frustrated here feel like AAMCO is trying to make buck off me cant afford 500+ dollars from the dealer not sure what to do here. :angry: :angry: :angry:

So went to checker auto had the codes pulled today, looks like the same code P0768. malfunction in solenoid D :( :( :( Wouldn't AAmco or any transmission repair shop have checked the valve body when replacing the solenoid or is the a different area ? I've taken very good care of the vehicle doing all required maintenance at regular scheduled intervals

So I just got my 02 rx300 back from AAMCO, long story shore vsc+check engine light = replace solenoid D After they finished the work, lights came back on and they saying they tested the new solenoid its fully working but the computer is not telling the tranny to shift into 4th gear.... suggested I take it to a dealer and have them do a computer scan. Anybody know ball park how much a computer scan will cost and if there any DIY remedies to resolve this ???

Could be any number of things from a faulty gas cap to a transmission solenoid I would highly recommend taking it to a autozone or checker or any place that has a diag tool to check engine codes. Once you got the code the guy can look them up or theres a post here some were with all the engine codes. Give ya a beter idea if why the lights are on

If its any help I just went through the same service. I have 02 rx300 with 110K miles Id suggest calling around around and finding a certified shop that will do just your timing belt. Like mention earlier Toyota shops charge less I got a Toy dealer here for 300+tax and free diag of the engine and all belts & hoses. I Flushed all fluids, replace wipers,, oil change, replaced ac and air filters, flushed tranny, & diff all myself I suggest getting a Chiltons manual for assistance I haven't been to the library in say 10 year if not more but 10 minutes getting a library card and I paid 0.00 to borrow a Chilton manual for the rx300/highlander. All in all i think I spent maybe 400.00 next up is upgrading the exhaust

I was driving back from a camping trip when VSC & Check Engine Light came one I've had this happen to me before so I checked the gas cap made sure it was in good condition and turned it tight, then removed the negitive cable on the battery. Everything was good for about 10 miles when it came back on When to Checker Auto and got a code checker, this is what it returned: P0765 Shift Solenoid "D" Malfunction OH no does this mean my tranny is hosed ??? I did notice it is shifting harder but still drives Anybody have any ideas on what is causing this ? Im going to get it to a service shop asap but I dont get paid till friday and well I need to be able to be mobile till them should I stop driving ??? Any help is welcome Thanks in advanced

We have some pretty harsh winters here in Utah between Skiing in Park City or Ice fishing in high Uintah Mountains the Goodyear forenza triple tred's are some pretty good tires. I used them for about 50k miles with no worries. I recently switch over to the Firestone Winterforce tires not a big fan of any of the stone brands but got a really great deal on them 50 bucks a tires including mounting and balancing. So far so good got caught in a storm over parleys canyon no trouble no slipping around the turns and no fish tailing lane when changing in the deep snow.

With the colder temps I can no longer use my wiper fluid Im thinking either the motor or the little sprayer jets are freezing over. I was wondering if you guys had any pointers on keep them unfrozen.

Its about that time to replace my Rotors One is pretty warped and needs replacing. Ive wanted to upgrade my brakes and rotors anyways with 20" inch wheels I feel like ive lost some braking power. Ive been researching new rotors and have came across quite a few articles about slotted, drilled and slotted\drilled rotors and have came to the conclusion that unless you the roters has been cased with drill holes drilled rotors are prone to cracking and do not provided any significant improvement in braking performance. Was wondering what your opinions were on slotted, drilled or slotted & drilled roters ? Heres is one article I came across While I'll agree to a certain point, here's some quotes from many known brake engineers and brake manufacturers in regards to slotting vs. drilled vs. normal. ----------- Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack." Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today's elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process." Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.) Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted? A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity." From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate" From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors? In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings." Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?) AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs."

Hello all , im looking to do a Tune Up on my 02 rx300 but not sure what is all involved.... I use to do regular tunes on my Explorer but not real familary with Toyota\Lexus engines. 1. Whats al linvolved I know, oils change & replacement of the plugs but what else nees to be done ? 2. How hard is it to get to all the plugs ? 3. how hard it it to replace the serpentine belt ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hello all, Im about hit 100K on my 02 RX300 Ive also been experiencing a small loss in power. Called a toyota dealer and they want 1200.00 for 100k service. Im sure the Lexus dealer wants more I know I drive a lexus but 1200.00 is way outside of my budget wanted to try a quick fix like sea foam until I can get the money for 100k service. I read you suppose to pour some the seafoam in a container and have the vacuum line suck it up does anybody know or have a pic of the vacuum line ???

And to add to the headache :chairshot: , You'll probably have to cut wires and solder :chairshot: Watch out when you have to reverse the project :chairshot: My .02 cents There was a period of time in which this "mod" would actually work. The base idea was to modify the IAT, Intake Air Temperature sensor such that the engine ECU would "think" the intake airflow was cooler than actual. Cooler intake airflow equals densor intake airflow so the ECU would increase the level of fuel in the mixture and RICHER mixture therefore an increase in HP. But modern day engine control systems defeat this "mod" by "learning", monitoring for the correct A/F mixture in the exhaust manifold via the oxygen sensor. So these days if you want this mod to work you have to also modify the mixture feedback signal from both exhaust manifold oxygen sensors. These modern systems could possibly be fooled if the IAT modification were only enabled at WOT. But as always the fact that it is simply a 3 cent 1/4 watt resistor isn't the issue, it's knowing how to use that resistor. IS THERE ANYBODY IN THE STATES THAT SELLS THESE COMPRESSORS ?