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Econ

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  • Lexus Model
    1991 LS 400

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  1. If you're really intent on high-performance filtration, check on cannister filters for the LS400. They're more expensive initially ($25-$50 generally), but give you the ability to relpace the filter element only in future changes ($1-$9 per filter, usually in boxes of 10). They do a great filtration job due to the high density folds in the element. There is another benefit having to do with lower oil pressure within the filter (which enhances flow rates), but I'm not sure on the science behind it. The only real way to find out if filter A is better designed than filter B is to cut them open (to see the elements). Count the folds and that will give you a rough idea (more folds implies better filtration). There used to be a website that compared a wide selection of filters in this manner - might want to google it.
  2. Digging this out of the ground only to add a final solution. Thanks to all that contributed ideas. Unfortunately, nothing can overcome the combined stupidity of Checker and I. Checker gave me a battery with the wrong polarity and I never had the good sense to actually check which side was the positive lead and which was the negative. It did strike me as odd that the negative side of the battery would go straight to the junction box. <_< Again, thanks to everyone. For those of you searching for a solution, check your battery terminals. On a 1st gen LS400, the positive post is on the left (standing at the front of the car) and the negative lead is on the right.
  3. SK - Good idea. Using that method, I should be able to narrow down which circuits might have a short, if it's a short at all. Mehullica - Good catch as well - someone recommended that to me offline. I get a +12.5V when I test using where the neg and pos leads are currently hooked up - and -12.5V when I reverse it. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate the quick feedback.
  4. It looks like that will do it for stop lights. Is there a separate diagram for rear turn signals? Thanks!! Keeya. Ninja skills. Turn signals attached.
  5. Is this what you might be looking for? (This is a 1991 LS 400, but should be fairly much the same)
  6. I hate to post up new problems, but I've searched and searched and can't find anything on this: 1991 LS 400 recently started having problems with the dash lights and radio blinking off (cutting out) when the brake was applied. Then, the battery died one very rainy day and the car has been sitting since. I replaced the battery, but every time I connect the negative lead to the terminal on the battery, a huge spark jumps and the 120 amp main fuse (120A fusible link) blows. I found the solution thread for the brake/dash light problem -- the possible worn wires in the left hinge of the trunk -- (here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=17013&hl= for those of you who pull this up in a search) and inspected mine only to find three wires already patched with crimp connectors in place. I've replaced them with my own (they looked a little small for the wire) and inspected the rest of the wires, which looked fine. Additionally, I had self-installed a CD changer in the trunk and had done a poor job of splicing on the ground wire (wht-blk striped wire) nearer the brake light. I repaired that connection as well. I'm still stuck with the spark and then blowing fuse problem, however. I have checked for continuity between the positive and negative leads (while disconnected from the battery) and found that there was a completed circuit (~ 1450 kohms resistance, though). I wasn't sure if that indicative of a confirmed short somewhere or not. My next step is to work on cleaning the ground points to ensure there aren't corrosion problems. Of course, I can connect the battery and the 30 amp fusible link to the starter and engine is fine. Anyone else have any suggestions as to where I should be looking? Thanks for any help you all can provide. I appreciate it.
  7. Good analogy, except that I'm hesitant to judge the life of the car based on the fuel pump's ability to keep going. Plus, and I'm no surgeon, it seems like a fuel pump transplant is waaaay easier than open-heart surgery.
  8. Yeah, you can replace them yourself - lexls.com has a rockin' walkthrough, you definitely need to review it before replacing the sensors. Get an O2 sensor wrench if you can spare the $, they make things a little easier in my opinion (I got a set of 3 for $25 from the site lexls.com refers you to for sensors). Part #s for the O2 sensors: Front - 8946550010 Rear - 8946550020 Torque specs are 33 ft. lbs.
  9. I just replaced my upper control arm this weekend and used a 1/2" drive breaker bar. If you don't have one, I highly advise you go get one, it's definitely worth the money (esp. in situations like this). If you can't get a bolt loose, try worrying it - alternate between tightening and loosening the bolt. That's worked wonders on some nuts/bolts that I thought I would never get loose. It's definitely a tight space to use an impact wrench in - don't strip the bolt! Also, there are body mounts where the bolts sink into. It would be a -real- pain to get to them, I'm sure, but it's better than being forced to do it b/c you don't have a head on the bolt anymore. Good luck!
  10. A million thanks, nc211, for the parts.com reference. I was wondering why, 1) All these online parts guys looked like they used the same interface, and 2) Why there wasn't a central registry so I could compare prices with ease. Kickass. In regards to the grommets, jadecuir, they really are flimsy little pieces of rubber, and fairly easy to replace. It takes some time and patience to work them in (on the 1st gen, at least), but no more than an hour total time. I noticed some problems when going over bumps while turning - the wheel would really wobble sometimes. Abnormally so, when compared to my other cars. I figure the rack was shifting slightly, which was changing both the angle on the shaft and the turning resistance against the tie rods.
  11. I think they're actually called "Toyota/Lexus Auto Shop", but I'm not sure. You might want to check with mickg's recommendation first as he seems to have extensive personal experience with them.
  12. Yoikes. That's not good. Ok, there's a harness with the female side closest to the radio that has the white w/blue stripe providing power from a 20A fuse. The grey wire doesn't come from a harness, according to the diagram. Given the difficulty and my inability to expand much beyond what I told you, it might be a good idea just to get a harness and remove the pins you aren't going to use.
  13. Someone else asked this question a while ago - definitely do a search. There's a shop on Broadway south of Alameda just before I-25 that is a Toyota/Lexus shop. I've heard some positive things about them. Anything in particular wrong or are you just looking ahead of a problem?
  14. Ahh - external/internal bypass leakage. Rack's go bad, unfortunately, and especially with the nifty do-dads on the LS rack, they're expensive and tedious to replace. $350 for a rack from a mechanic is a little low, but not outrageously cheap. It's a little under a keystone (100%) markup, but still only about $70 more than you could probably order it yourself for. The labor per hour is pretty in-line with what I've seen around here, and they're not kidding. It took me 10 hours to replace my rack myself, and there's still an annoying slow leak coming from somewhere that will likely require me to remove the rack and re-tighten connections. It's in there in a really awkward way. Sorry to hear about the hit to the pocketbook. One thing that you absolutely must make sure they do if you're replacing the rack is clean the filters and (since it's on their time) swap the fluid. Nice thing is, you'll unquestionably notice a difference in steering once it's replaced and you should be good for another 150k miles.
  15. Whoa - $614 for tires? What are they made out of? Once you hit $500 for tires on the LS, you probably should be thinking about what you're buying. Tires are a big part of ride quality, but there are diminishing returns as you go up the price scale.
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