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About Peter2000

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  • Lexus Model
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    California (CA)
  1. I like to share my experience with replacing door locks on my 2000 GS400. I decided to replace all my door locks actuators by purchasing after market set of 4 for all my doors. After install rear doors, actuators worked just couple of cycles and stuck (chines junk). Than I returned my old rear actuators and continue to replacing front actuators. Those aftermarket actuators had hard time to fit. I had to shave some p[plastic material from white lever, because was hitting bracket. Than I had to put 1/16" spacer under actuator to accommodate free movement of levers. After that, my front actuators seems to work OK, but not for very long time. Next day i discovered my car acts weird during locking and unlocking. Every time when I unlocked my door, door locks cycled twice. Sometime if I opened door before second cycle, my alarm has been activated. By investigating problem I found that both front actuators did not have (apparently) internal switch call "Lock detect". By measuring Front Left (driver side) lock actuator connector Pin#3 and Pin#4, there was no short when door has been locked. I got very upset and removed both front actuators and returned to seller on E-bay. My next step was to purchase just motors to replace them in my original actuators. After my motors and pulley remover arrived i performed motors replacement. Opening of actuators was not that hard, just very important step on beginning when you have to start make a crack by inserting box cutter knife. Than I used flat screw driver and was cracking glued area from inside out. (better if actuator is cold or frozen). After my successful motor replacement and installation door locks in my car, another problem occurred. (why not). My door locks functioned exactly opposite as they should work. When I pressed Unlock, my car locked and vice versa. By comparing Toyota (old) motor with new replacement, i discovered, that new motor rotation is CCW, but original Toyota motor rotation is CW. This was easy fix. Just swapped motor wires inside each door door lock's connector. Now all is working as suppose to.
  2. I just installed on my 200 GS400 a new aftermarket navigation Pioneer AVIC8200NEX and used stock Amplifier and stock speakers. Stock HU unit, Navigation and CD changer has been removed. Simple stock amplifier's hardware modification required. Problem with using stock amplifier has been solved. If you like know more about it, please drop a line to me.
  3. Full Throttle Behavior

    Did you scan for any error codes? I will suggest to check your PPS (pedal position sensor).
  4. 2002 Is300 Cel Code P1120 And P1126

    Code P1120 is code for malfunction of APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor). This pedal position sensor (APPS) have a dual output inverse of each other, a redundancy for safety reasons. Cost of sensor on line ($270, at Lexus $400) Be aware, there are two sensors on throttle body. First one (closer to front of vehicle) is for throttle servo motor (don’t touch it!). Second one (closer to firewall) with accelerator pedal cable attached to it is one what causing the problem. I replace several of those APPS sensors. Because I'm specializing in automotive electronics troubleshooting, I took all of them a part. By doing so, I discovered on all of them common problem, what fortunately is an easy fix. Malfunction of that sensor is caused by improper cleaning of organic solder residue during manufacturing of sensor. This organic solder is very aggressive and after years of exposing this solder to harsh environment, acid in that solder causing self-destruction of solder what result of it is so called "cold connection". Manufacturer ignored (perhaps intentionally) basic rule about cleaning contacts after soldering and protect it against moisture by covering soldered area with some kind of protective layer what is very common in automotive industry (shame on Toyota). SOLUTION: Fix is very easy and can be done in less than hour include dismount and mount of sensor. To do so, just make small opening in to white plastic cover at location where is connector (see my picture). By creating opening, you will create access to soldering points. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Apply new solder to existing points and take it all out (use desoldering tool or cupper mash to do so). By doing this you will remove old solder and expose contact from connector. Now you MUST clean those contacts by using very sharp knife and scrape old oxide layer from those contacts. To verify if you did good cleaning, you will see after scraping nice shiny brace contacts. Second verification is, that when you apply new solder on those contacts, it will perfectly cover it with solder. If you will see solder creating small ball and not covering entire contact, you need repeat process again till you get perfect join solder to contacts. Next step is just nicely resolder all 4 contact to PC board with non-organic solder (best is solder with Resin flux), but if you don't have solder with Resin flux, you can use solder with organic flux (same as Toyota used) but you will have to use warm water to clean soldering points to remove any organic residue to prevent from same mistake as Toyota did in first place. After drying up inside soldered area (use hair dryer) to prevent from moisture entering in to this part, you must cover opening (in white plastic) with good tape or any kind of non-conductive sealant (best is clear non-conductive silicone). If you use silicone to cover opening, be very careful do not overfill inside opening, otherwise you will create restriction for potentiometer to freely move. After silicone dry up, you can install your APPS and enjoy it. If you did good job, you will not have problem with this part for entire life of that car. If you have any question, you can e-mail me at: Peter
  5. Welcome to the Lexus forums Peter2000 :)