kbd3636

Deus did the photography duty for which I am grateful because when I'm doing a project, I'm on a mission and seldom make it a priority to take pictures. Then always wish afterwards that I had because I am a very visual person and always want to see the pictures. I also am not highly computer skilled in the details and consequently have not learned the art of posting pictures and some of the other things I have long wished I had time to learn but haven't. Thanks again Deus, for taking and posting the pictures- all in all it was a community effort. Artbuc- the connectors are 3M 90 degree taps that you should be able to obtain a lot of places. Any good electronic store would have them as well as any GOOD automotive supply store. That's the real deal, am not sure about Autozone and the like. We are fortunate in this area to have a couple of EXCELLENT electronic stores. (Adult candy stores) You use a male blade connector on the end of the actuator wires. This type of stuff is very readily available on the net if you don't feel like hunting locally for it. I use that type of connector when it's in a dry area and not too heavy a load (though I believe they are rated for a minimum of 10A and maybe 15A), because they are so easy to use. I used them sparingly when doing Code3 work. The black stuff is "Magic". It's actually "butyl tape", the same stuff that the edge of your inside door weather shield is attached with. You generally buy it at an automotive paint store (body shop supply) ands it has a million uses. I couldn't get along without it. If anyone is ever interested in using it though, PM me and I'll give you some tips you'll thank me for. Roger, I would appreciate any tips you can provide. I've ordered the lock actuator kit and hope to have it this weekend, so am curious about the taps, the butyl tape and the connector rod used to secure the actuator to the door panel. Thanks! Kevin