lexis lexus

I agree w/ rick. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'm not sure about the arrangement of hoses on the '92, but on my 94 there are 4 small water hoses on that side of the engine, two go to and from the underside of the throttle body, and 2 go to the heater w/ connections on the firewall.

Hi, I never had any luck downloading the fsm off this site. Best to get a Haynes for the Toyota camry of the same year. I did buy a digital fsm off ebay for a few bucks but there was no index. The job will take many hours/days in and back. First step is to remove the intake side (2-3 hr minimum if you've done it before, longer if you haven't. Then the fuel rail, timing belt and pullies, then heads. (all this can be found in haynes). While you're down there, plan to replace the spark plugs, timing belt, the knock sensors and their wiring harness, the egr valve, possibly a thermostat, the water hose that runs under the intake manifold (if the '96 has this not sure), both oxygen sensors if they aren't new, head bolts, prolly the exhaust studs and bolts, and of course most of the things you break. I found (not in the books) it very useful to disconnect the wiring harness at the computer under the glove compartment and then pull the connectors through the firewall, so that the harness (which wraps around the outside of the rear head and the front and rear of the engine) can be pulled up in the air to make access much easier. Also think it's better to not unbolt the rear ex manifold from the rear head, but just pull both out as a unit, easier to get back in. Will need a head gasket kit. I got mine on ebay for about $50, which has worked very well, (no leaks after 2 years and 20k miles) or you can buy one at Autozone or Advance for $300-$400 (look for a company called erista on ebay). Good luck and keep us posted. There's a lot written on this site about how to do this, but not in any one place or time. LL

Reminds me of Bullwinkle's old saying, "Where brains fail....brawn prevails..." Sears makes a great broken bolt extractor set, but it's pricey, however worthwhile investment. Unlikely radio work has caused probs w/ mirrors. Look for a bad fuse. LL

Sounds like you're having some fun..... Battery probably bad, but those connectors can do it too. If neither one of those fixes it, you may need a new starter. Another problem that can happen is that the cables end up corroding from the inside -- 22 years old! They'll carry some charge, but can't do the full load which is what's needed to get started. I agree, fluid from the battery is not normal, and that's where I'd start. Not sure what to say about the struts. I make a lubricant by mixing 50% acetone and 50% auto trans fluid (from old Popular Mechanics article). Works better than most everything on the market, and a lot less expensive than most. Squirt it on daily for several days, then try. Another trick is to heat up the fastener w/ a propane torch to break the fused threads holding it in. As Archimedes said, "give me a long enough lever and I'll move the earth..." so you might be able to take advantage of the attached strut to just torque the thing off. Lastly, might need to drill a good sized hole thru the body of the stuck fastener and then try to turn with a long Phillips screwdriver. I've had my share of stuck and broken bolts and fasteners on my '94, it takes time but you'll get there. LL

I had an additional thought, based on your description of the trans reving up and then engaging. I'm not sure, but this may represent a bad torque converter, or not enough fluid, causing poor TC function. Unless there was a radical redesign of the ES in the '00s, there's only one computer that controls engine and transmission (among other things), and it's probably located behind the glove box. LL

I had a slightly different problem a while back w/ my '94. It wouldn't go into overdrive, and I would cruise at 60 mph running 3300 rpms. AFter I replaced the fluid and filter w/ no benefit. I took it to a transmission shop and they opined that it was probably electrical. Took it to the electric shop and they thought it "might" be a computer problem. I didn't want to spend a lot for a new one on a guess, so waited until I found a match at the bone yard (took about 8 mos of hunting...gotta find just the right one as there are several different computers for each year based on trim level, etc). Popped the computer in and got my overdrive back. LL

Ya, if you had 02 sensor probs you'd get a code for it. I was not clear that you had a code already, as you said earlier you didn't. What tells you it's a small evap leak? If it is, you've got to do systematic work. Replace every vacuum line in the system all the way back to the gas tank if needed, as that's the cheapest and easiest thing to do. If that doesn't work, then you have to start inspecting components of the evap system. When the car is idling rough, go over every thing w/ wd40 spray and whey you find the leakl it should even out briefly. Then replace that part. Taking off the IAC is not an easy job, at least not on my '94. It is possible there's a leak there but not my first choice. I'd look at the pastic and rubber parts first. LL

Easy job up front, hardly have to take anything off I bet. (altho am not familiar with your gen 3s300) If ya got the money, then going OEM is the right idea w/ oxygen sensors. But these sensors are available aftermarket for less $$. O2 sensors are like spark plugs, they wear out. IMHO buying spark plugs or O2 sensors at Toyoto or Lexus dealerships will be at least a 20% mark up and maybe even more. Check with local auto stores, amazon, rock auto. You'll be amazed... LL

It's not clear to me why you think it's the IAC. But if you're '02 is similar to my '94, then you've got to take the intake off. The IAC is screwed onto the bottom of the throttle body, and those screws are a bugger to get off, I had to do it on my bench, w/ an impact driver. The first question is what are the codes? Get the #s (autozone will do them I believe for free if you don't have a reader) and look them up. Then if it says you have a problem w/ evap leak, then start chasing those lines, not w/ smoke but w/ wd40. Trying to change or fix things willy nilly is not the best approach. See where the computer points you and then start testing out that system, sensor, etc. How many miles? How many miles since spark plugs replaced? How many miles since o2 sensors (or whatever they're called on the '02) replaced? LL

Congrats Greg. I never posted the "rest of the story" to my driver's side front window problem. So I did get a new swtich, swapped it in and still no movement. I was disheartened, but kept at it, first checking the wiring from the switch to the motor, that was ok too. I finally took out the motor itself and then seeing the bushings were really crudded up, took a file to them and burnished the surfaces, all this after having removed the armature and screw from the motor housing. I recall reading about this on another thread in the archives. I put it back in thinking "if it's already broke, can't really break it anymore..." Plugged the swtich back in, and damn, it worked, and continues to work. Beats paying a buck quarter for a rebuilt motor (I've a 94 es, parts a bit cheaper). So Greg, I bet you're removal of the motor, losened up something, like a jammed screw to gear surface, or even something making the bushings not work right. I suspect that is the reason why slamming the door works as well. LL

Hi, I have a 94 es 300 w/ no overdrive and had supportive opinions by both a transmission shop and an electrical shop that my computer "might be bad." I explored the options of new ($700+), refurbed ($200-$300)and used ($20-$200). I decided the used route was the most attractive in terms of price (pull-a-part price $20), especially for a "lets try it and see if this fixes it.." approach. It took several months of hunting for the right one (have to read the part number off the side of the box) on ebay and in the local yards. I got quite good at extracting the computer from wrecked es300's and I finally landed one in the yard. 10 minutes later ..... overdrive! I even found a $10 bill behind the glove box when I got it! One of the easiest repairs I've made, but took a lot of patience. LL

Just finished wrangling w/ my driver's side window (94 es300). Here's what I learned. Factory service manual recommends replacing switch first and then focus on the window motor. I did the former but that wasn't the problem. Had to take the motor out, cleaned the bushings on the motor and luckily that was what it needed. The problem I had to start with was being able open the window but then it wouldn't go up for a day or so. And when it did move, it was real slow. I suspect a switch problem would be all or none, whereas a motor problem wouldn't as in my case. The fact that earlier your passenger switch was obviously bad (window moved w/ driver's side switch) leads to a theory that that's still the problem. Taking door apart isn't too difficult, but usually has a few tricks that a manual might help with. Above advice useful for switch replacement. LL

I have a similar prob with the driver's side window in my '94 es. I dug into the factory service manual, and under the troubleshooting section for the windows for this type of problem it recommends replacing the master switch first, then if that doesn't work, then the motor. I suspect my master switch is bad and have one coming in (ebay) as they are impossible to find in the junk yards unless you get there when an es300 is being dropped down, ditto for the regulator/motor. In your case, since the motor is running fine, and you've already tried the master switch, suggest the door switch? I like the reset idea, altho in my case the window actually goes up and down but intermittently and verrry slowly. LL

That's the power steering pump belt (assuming your pix is upside down). LL

Most likely the wiring harness for the knock sensors wasn't replaced. This is usually the main reason for knock sensor codes. The harness sits under the intake plenum in the valley between the two heads and tends to cook easily. This would explain the codes coming back. LL