SW03ES
Mar 21 2003, 04:32 PM
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.
I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!
SW03ES
Mar 21 2003, 04:33 PM
I've found for easy drying, use a leaf blower to blow the excess water out from around door jambs, emblems etc much like a carwash does, then just follow up with a microfiber towel.
zeta
Mar 21 2003, 07:08 PM
now if only i had a normal towel. i just use a nice soft cotton towel that doesn't leave that stuff from the towel on my car. i have trouble with waxing... trying to find the white wax that you sprayed on a white car is not the smartest idea...
the best trick i've learned... is finding a free car wash coupon for Car Spa, taking it there, and opting for the $2 extra wheel detail cleaning. car looks beautiful on its way out.
Matthew_McNally
Mar 22 2003, 08:10 AM
QUOTE(SW03ES @ Mar 21 2003, 10:33 PM)
I've found for easy drying, use a leaf blower to blow the excess water out from around door jambs, emblems etc much like a carwash does, then just follow up with a microfiber towel.
this is a great idea - especially if you have an IS.
I swear the wing mirrors on that car were designed to retain water.
SW03ES
May 10 2003, 11:28 PM
Also, Microfiber towels are much better than cotton for almost everything. Waxing, polishing, drying, cleaning windows, they're really tough to beat. Ranney at Pakshak makes great ones at a great low cost.
www.pakshak.com
pgross
Sep 1 2003, 08:24 PM
I found that using Son of a Gun or Armour All with an old toothbrush gets the wax buildup out of cracks and then can be wiped clean woth a good rag.
m2pc
Sep 4 2003, 07:47 PM
I don't have a leaf blower

, but I do use my air compressor

It gets rid of most of the water and any water in the nooks and crannies. I do get strange looks from my wife and neighbors though
Microfiber towels are great! Great for buffing, polishing, removing wax. But after using microfiber "mitts", I would not recommend the microfiber mitts. Once they trap stuff in them, it is very difficult to rinse or remove the sediment off from them, increasing the likehood of scratches.
Happy detailing!
mkenick
Sep 4 2003, 08:07 PM
Hi Steve...
Can not help but add my opinion to the detailing thread. The tip I would like to add concerns brake dust. I am sure everyone is familiar with the back breaking job of scrubbing that nasty dust off those wheels. The product I put on my wheels is called "Diamond Gloss." It is the same product that I apply to all the painted surfaces on my 1999 Gs300. I never have to scrub my wheels and my paint shines better than new. "Diamond Gloss" is applied by a Ziebart store (I know because I own a Ziebart store). This is not an ad, how many of you live in Albany NY.. where I am? It is just an informative forum on how to keep your car look GREAT!!
If you love bending over and cleaning your wheels every time you wash your car ... great keep it up. If you want a rinse and go... and a heck of alot less work ... try "Diamond Gloss" at your local Ziebart dealer.
Mark
(518) 459-6020
HUSTLER
Sep 12 2003, 12:58 PM
hey all,
could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.
i use mcguire or however u spell it for waxing my car and stuff and it works great since all u gotta do is spray and wipe.
DavidB
Jan 11 2004, 08:38 AM
I have created a special version of my detailing guide for LexusOwnersClub.com members to download (free). The book normally sells for $14.95. The links in the book lead back to lexuscarcare.com, which supports this site.
To download the ebook (MS Windows format), browse to
http://lexuscarcare.com/lib/lexuscarcare/AGTDLCC.EXE and save the file to your Windows Desktop. Click on the car icon to run. To view all chapters, please register your copy. Your name/email will only be used to notify you of new versions (2-3 times a year). A future version will be specific to LexusOwnersClub.com with all Lexus pictures and information.
Enjoy!
David Bynon
Wes
Jan 18 2004, 10:06 PM
Thanks David. That is a handy little book.
wfmiller
Jan 19 2004, 12:56 PM
David, what are the main differences between V2.0 and V3.01? There seems to be much more info in the V2 If I am not mistaken???
TOGWT
Feb 3 2004, 11:19 AM
~One mans opinion / observation~
Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner.
Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use:
Outside glass –
1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.)
2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits.
4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth
5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side.
6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.)
7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth.
8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.
9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool.
10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary.
12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. .
Inside glass –
Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)
Plastic window –
Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics.
Rear window –
I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
TOGWT
Feb 3 2004, 11:24 AM
Glass Cleaning
Exposure to bugs, road oil and tar, and catalytic converter emissions makes automotive glass cleaning a challenge. I discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car; ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. As a substitute I prefer (Stoner’s Invisible Glass) or a citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaner.
Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the windshield's surface. Chances are, it will have a rough, gritty feel. Glass cleaners will not remove this grit, the method I use:
Outside glass –
1.Apply clay (Magic Clay) and lubricant solution (Woolite / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.)
2.Wash off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
3.For ‘water spots’ use a water/distilled white vinegar solution, 5:1 (adjust ratio as required) to dissolve the alkaline-based mineral water deposits.
4.Apply a quarter size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish to a dry 100% cotton or Microfiber cloth
5.Apply to half of the windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side.
6.Go over the glass several times in each direction. (Glass will polish virtually residue free.)
7.Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Microfiber cloth.
8.If any ‘water spots’ remain apply Distilled White Vinegar un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.
9.If this does not remove the ‘water spots’ use Autoglym Car Glass Polish and #0000 steel wool.
10.Wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel
11.Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary.
12.Apply 303 Wiper Treatment to the wiper blades to clean, restore suppleness, eliminate wiper noise or ‘skipping’ and to avoid glass smearing. .
Inside glass –
Wipe glass with a damp waffle weave towel; apply Stoners Invisible Glass to 100% cotton Microfiber cloth and rub glass surface with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)
Plastic window –
Use same as ‘Inside glass’ above but use Plexus1Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish. Safe for all types of clear and coloured plastics, Perspex, Lucite, Mylar (window tinting) and clear acrylics.
Rear window –
I use a Glass Master (it has two swivel paddle heads that fit on to a handle and comes with three bonnets, terry, and Microfiber and bug scrubber. This allows access to sloped rear window glass) to apply the Stoners Invisible Glass with a light to medium pressure (it will dry streak-free / lint-free and shining)
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
TOGWT
Feb 4 2004, 12:44 PM
Quote: could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.
~One mans opinion / observation~
Virtually all painted surfaces succumb to one or more of these unsightly blemishes. They can be caused by any number of things: kicked-up road debris, uncovered gravel trucks, keying or other types of vandalism, etc. They are not only aesthetically unsightly; the exposed metal is subject to rusting. Vehicles that have a chipped or scratched paint film surface usually affect its re-sale and/or trade-in value.
Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access how deep the scratch is and how badly the paint film surface is compromised.
a)Surface scratch: probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning /techniques. This kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish.
b)Visible abrasions: dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often causes this kind of damage, or careless use of the car keys, or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.
c)Visible damage: if the scratches show a black or white colour it probably means that it’s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.
To repair paint chips and deeper scratches that have compromised the vehicles paint system through to the primer coat. Ensure a surface temperature of >600F and allow each coat of paint to dry >2-3 hours
Clean-paint-sand level, polish and protect
·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership.
·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com)
·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match
·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash)
·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.
·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding
·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406)
·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess.
·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator. The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away.
·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats
·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair
·Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection
Notes:
1.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection
2.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour
3.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats.
4.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
mkassab
Sep 13 2004, 06:01 AM
The best product I've used is Zaino.... check out their web site. The product works great.....
http://www.lazaino.com/Mark
TOGWT
Sep 22 2004, 06:30 AM
Water Spots:
These are caused when the sun evaporates standing water on the vehicles surface and fall into one of two categories (see also Airborne Pollutants page 1)
a)Surface water spots: mineral deposits-high calcium content water or the water from a light summer shower that that dries on the surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit.
These can be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, and then using a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if the surface has been etched then a machine polish should be used to level the surface.
b)Below surface water spots: are caused by acid rain or industrial fallout, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a circular mark.
These can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, use either a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) to clean or a machine polish to level the surface
·For glass surfaces use Autoglym Glass Polish
·On paint surfaces us Iz Einzett TM Metallic Polish or Iz Einzett TM Paint Polish and reapply surface protection once spots have been removed)
HRP
Sep 22 2004, 06:23 PM
Just a couple of tips:
1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.
2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.
3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.
4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.
5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.
6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.
7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.
Rich Coleman
Nov 1 2004, 10:56 PM
QUOTE(HRP @ Sep 22 2004, 05:23 PM)
Just a couple of tips:
1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.
2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.
3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.
4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.
5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.
6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.
7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.
[right][snapback]82352[/snapback][/right]
Rich Coleman
Nov 1 2004, 11:01 PM
QUOTE(HRP @ Sep 22 2004, 05:23 PM)
Just a couple of tips:
1) Don't forget the wheelwells. I apply Mop'n'Glo via a spray bottle (using a sponge or rag really gets your hands sticky and wastes more than you actually apply). And turning the front wheels all the way in one direction gives you much more space to clean wheelwells.
2) Zaino Z-10 (Leather In A Bottle) is a gerat product and not only protects and keeps your leather looking great, it keeps that smell of leather in the car for several weeks.
3) Don't forget to clean and "dress" your door seals, and clean and polish the door frames to keep the wind noise down.
4) You'd be amazed at the number of people who forget to clean the windshield wipers.
5) Never detail in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivets, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.
6) When working on the car, always have one or two MF towels in your hand or pocket. That way when you want to lean on the car, you can lean on the towel. Stops the messy finger/hand/arm marks. And they make a handy cushion for putting bottles products down on the car without scratching.
7) Rolling stool for low body panels, bumpers, wheels........easy on the lower back.
[right][snapback]82352[/snapback][/right]
What product do you recommend for cleaning and dressing down rubber around doors and sun roof? How about one of the Armor All products?
SW03ES
Nov 4 2004, 11:55 AM
303 Aerospace protectant is probbaly the best for that task.
Rich Coleman
Nov 18 2004, 10:36 PM
QUOTE(SW03ES @ Nov 4 2004, 10:55 AM)
303 Aerospace protectant is probbaly the best for that task.
[right][snapback]90806[/snapback][/right]
Can you tell us about your experience with 303 Aerospace Protectant and why you use it? Does it do a better job than several Armor All Products? And, where can I buy some? Lot's of Kragen and NAPA stores here in the Bay Area of northern California, along with the major retailers. Thanks. Rich
SW03ES
Nov 20 2004, 12:24 AM
Armor all is actually a pretty decent product nowadays as its not water based not solvent based. 303 is special (and expensive) because it actually molecularly bonds to the plastic material that its spread on and its the only protectant on the market that has been proven to actually have UV protective properties. Its used by Nasa and our government to protect plastic surfaces on fighter jets, ships, etc etc. You probably wont find it anywhere locally but your best bet would be to find a marine store or an outdoor store that sells kayaks.
ranger2692
Feb 15 2005, 08:18 PM
QUOTE(SW03ES @ Mar 21 2003, 06:32 PM)
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.
I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!
[right][snapback]2841[/snapback][/right]
Steve,
I just joined recently when I took delivery on my 05 LS430. I have attempted about 10 times to get the free Detailing Book download, tried it at work at home on my kids computers, get the same thing "
The Page Cannot be Displayed " I've checked all the parameters that is listed on the page e.g. change security setttings etc. still no luck can you help??
Thanks
Ben
SW03ES
Feb 15 2005, 11:10 PM
Hmm...not sure. Try downloading it from www.autopia-carcare.com its the same book.
Lemme see what I can find out.
coup999
Mar 12 2005, 10:36 PM
Hey Guys, Got a rookie question for you. My lexus has a black interior so in the sunlight it shows streaks, dust, smudges really well. I'm a bit anal about that kind of stuff, but just can't seem to tackle it. Can you give me suggestions on how to take out these issues?
Dust - This will be just natural dust/lint that settles on the dashboard, or the instrument gauges. When the sun shines on it, it's very clear it's dusty. I try wiping it with a 100% cotton towel, but it just leaves a streak mark and it seems like I might be causing small scratches in the plastic or glass.
Smudges - Especially on the wood trim. The wood trim has the vinyl coat on it that makes it seem like plastic. Then whenever I touch it, it smudges really easily from my fingers.
Dashboard - When I try to clean the dashboard, which is neither cloth nor plastic, but that soft rubbery texture, it seems to create more problems by picking off fibers off the 100% cotton towel, or just doesn't let go of the dust.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
-Tim
SW03ES
Mar 14 2005, 05:23 PM
I answered your question wherever you posted it
Sluggo
Mar 21 2005, 04:07 AM
I almost hesitate to post this in the light of all the high-tech methods listed above, but for a fast and thorough windshield cleaning I've always used a standard toothpaste (Crest, Colgate, etc) rubbed on with a synthetic sponge. Toothpastes are basically just polishing clays suspended in a water-soluable base (avoid the gels and bleaching products like Rembrandt, etc). They're also inexpensive, rinse clean, and leave your car smelling minty-fresh

Just kidding about the smell, but seriously they do an excellent job of removing all manner of road film safely and quickly.
FX2RX400h?
Mar 27 2005, 03:09 PM
QUOTE(mkassab @ Sep 13 2004, 07:01 AM)
The best product I've used is Zaino.... check out their web site. The product works great.....
http://www.lazaino.com/Mark
[right][snapback]80437[/snapback][/right]
Yes, without a doubt. Experience the difference
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc A polish, not a wax.
SW03ES
Mar 28 2005, 11:33 PM
Actually its a sealant, not a polish. A polish is something that smoothes and cleans the paints surface either with oils, light abrasives, chemicals or a combination of the three. Zaino's description of their product as a "polish" is not accurate. Its a synthetic polymer sealant. P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, Meguiars #7, #9, #80 etc are all polishes.
FX2RX400h?
Mar 30 2005, 04:30 PM
QUOTE(SW03ES @ Mar 29 2005, 12:33 AM)
Actually its a sealant, not a polish. A polish is something that smoothes and cleans the paints surface either with oils, light abrasives, chemicals or a combination of the three. Zaino's description of their product as a "polish" is not accurate. Its a synthetic polymer sealant. P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, Meguiars #7, #9, #80 etc are all polishes.
[right][snapback]119631[/snapback][/right]
They can call it Melted Gumby in a fricken jar for all I care, ....the shizt werkz! ...and I don't have a dic tionary.
Robb01
Apr 14 2005, 08:04 PM
300gone330
Jul 24 2005, 05:27 AM
QUOTE(SW03ES @ Mar 21 2003, 04:32 PM)
Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.
I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!
[right][snapback]2841[/snapback][/right]
Blower is good for pre-vacuuming ease too...open the doors and blow her out first. (could apply to sexual foreplay too...let us know.)
SW03ES
Jul 26 2005, 12:54 AM
LOL
91L3xus
Jul 30 2005, 12:39 AM
QUOTE
Blower is good for pre-vacuuming ease too...open the doors and blow her out first. (could apply to sexual foreplay too...let us know.)
Boy, does it ever...
rosecityrain
Nov 13 2005, 11:26 AM
Cleaning mats and carpets: Little Green Machine. Easy to measure (more is not better!) cleaning solution as it is marked on the tank. It is small and the one that comes with the heating element is worth the extra 5 dollars. Buy only the solution for use in the little machine.
Does a fabulous job. My aunt had a rotten tangerine under her seat and it was black and was part of the grey carpet by the time I found it. I didn't have much hope for it coming out totally. Gone without a trace.
rosie
gordons1
Nov 27 2005, 10:47 AM
I was shocked to see the damage I had done to my rear bumper when I accidently backed into a stucco covered block wall - although I just "kissed it gently" the plastic was scatched - much like when you scrape your skin on concrete. I would call it more than a scratch. What do you suggest I do? Is this a repair job for a good body shop? Is this something I could do on my own?....my guess its for the pros.....Thanks...
QUOTE(TOGWT @ Feb 4 2004, 01:44 PM)
Quote: could anyone provide some info on the best scratch removers..!!! would be helpful in here.
~One mans opinion / observation~
Virtually all painted surfaces succumb to one or more of these unsightly blemishes. They can be caused by any number of things: kicked-up road debris, uncovered gravel trucks, keying or other types of vandalism, etc. They are not only aesthetically unsightly; the exposed metal is subject to rusting. Vehicles that have a chipped or scratched paint film surface usually affect its re-sale and/or trade-in value.
Before deciding upon treatment, you should first access how deep the scratch is and how badly the paint film surface is compromised.
a)Surface scratch: probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning /techniques. This kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish.
b)Visible abrasions: dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often causes this kind of damage, or careless use of the car keys, or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.
c)Visible damage: if the scratches show a black or white colour it probably means that it’s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish.
To repair paint chips and deeper scratches that have compromised the vehicles paint system through to the primer coat. Ensure a surface temperature of >600F and allow each coat of paint to dry >2-3 hours
Clean-paint-sand level, polish and protect
·Establish the vehicles paint colour code that can be found on a plaque in the engine compartment or from your vehicle dealership.
·Purchase a touch-up paint from the dealership or a touch-up pen from AutoSharp pen (autosharpen.com)
·Test the paint in an inconspicuous area before using to ensure colour match
·Use a cleaning product that will clean the area of oil, crease, dirt, polish and wax (P21S Total Auto Wash)
·Use a sanding block and 1200 grit paper (Meguirer’s Unigrit Block), soak the block and paper overnight, with a water / soap solution 6:1 for lubrication, or a spot sanding tool (Griot’s P/N 50875) using a light to medium pressure to clean any surface rust or deposits of dirt or wax/polish.
·Soak the area to be repaired with the lubrication solution and keep it well lubricated while sanding
·Once the area is thoroughly cleaned, apply a primer using a touch-up paint applicator (Groit’s P/N 50406)
·Dip the tip of the applicator into the primer and gently touch the paint chip with the tip of the applicator. Should you over-fill; use a clean applicator to soak up any excess.
·Once the primer is thoroughly dry, using either the paint applicator, not the oversized brush that comes with the manufactures touch-up paint, or an AutoSharp Pen touch-up paint applicator. The pen features a felt tipped applicator that allows you to literally "colour" the damage away.
·Allow each coat of applied paint to dry for >2-3 hours before the application of subsequent coats
·Use a back and forth motion with the sanding block and paper (do not use circular movements) smooth out the repair and ensure that it is level with the paint film surface Try to limit sanding to the immediate area of the repair
·Use a mild polish to restore surface gloss after carefully rinsing away surface and finish by applying wax / sealant protection
Notes:
1.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection
2.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour
3.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats.
4.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
[right][snapback]37037[/snapback][/right]
SW03ES
Nov 29 2005, 11:58 AM
Sadly I just did this too...
Hitting it with a buffer helps, made mine look a LOT better, but it probably is going to have to be totally repainted. Mine goes in today.
StudentDoc
Apr 22 2006, 11:54 AM
New owner of IS, how do you clean that suede/soft cotton interior stuff that is all over walls and ceiling? That stuff picks up all sorts of finger prints and I have tried to clean similiar materials before and it just smudged.
PGSberg
Jan 5 2007, 07:08 PM
Don't know if it's been covered - A few minor tips:
A soft white drafting eraser (block or pen type) is great for getting wax and dirt out of black trim that accidentally gets run over with wax no matter how careful you are. Masking these areas with blue painters tape works before applying wax.
I buy cheap sponges to apply tire dressing & Armor All and put them in a zip lock bag until they get dirty, then toss them. It saves my washing machine since I no longer use rags. My wife was complaining about some of our clothes getting ruined after she washed my "car towels" because of the petrol-based chemicals on the dirty rags/towels.
When I was in Germany, the locals purchased 100% cotten in s-rolled bags to remove wax. You simply tear off a wad and remove the wax and toss it. Again saves on the washing machine.
Thank heaven for microfiber. I bought 50 rags at a CostCo for less than $20.
I keep the carpet and floor mats scotch guarded.
Have trouble figuring out whether those pesky glass streaks are in or out? Clean the inside windows horizontal (helps on the rear window defogger) and the outside windows vertical. Newspaper used to work great for windows but with all of the light cloth interior trim around the "A" pillars I would think the ink would ruin the material.
v/r Greg
LSSDC1000
Jul 13 2007, 05:01 PM
I use Zaino Products. They have a great starter kit and can be purchased online. You will use everything in the kit.
A clay bar comes with the kit and it will remove all the day to day grime from your paint. Well worth the time.
Make sure you put the wax on as thin as possible. 1 oz should do you entire car 2-3 coats. The first coat is the hardest to apply and it will get easier as you continue.
The finish will deepen as more coats are applied. Suggest using microfiber cloths to apply and remove.
I get a lot of comments that my LS430 is a great looking new car and it is a 2001 model.
I have also become good friends with my PDR "paintless dent repair' guy. 20-50 bucks and you have a flawless car.
as jab in the gut... My LS430 is much nicer than my S500 / S430 , better ride.
Also recommed Sewell Lexus if you live in the DFW Metroplex.
LSSDC1000
Jul 13 2007, 05:05 PM
QUOTE(PGSberg @ Jan 5 2007, 08:08 PM) [snapback]221775[/snapback]
Don't know if it's been covered - A few minor tips:
A soft white drafting eraser (block or pen type) is great for getting wax and dirt out of black trim that accidentally gets run over with wax no matter how careful you are. Masking these areas with blue painters tape works before applying wax.
I buy cheap sponges to apply tire dressing & Armor All and put them in a zip lock bag until they get dirty, then toss them. It saves my washing machine since I no longer use rags. My wife was complaining about some of our clothes getting ruined after she washed my "car towels" because of the petrol-based chemicals on the dirty rags/towels.
When I was in Germany, the locals purchased 100% cotten in s-rolled bags to remove wax. You simply tear off a wad and remove the wax and toss it. Again saves on the washing machine.
Thank heaven for microfiber. I bought 50 rags at a CostCo for less than $20.
I keep the carpet and floor mats scotch guarded.
Have trouble figuring out whether those pesky glass streaks are in or out? Clean the inside windows horizontal (helps on the rear window defogger) and the outside windows vertical. Newspaper used to work great for windows but with all of the light cloth interior trim around the "A" pillars I would think the ink would ruin the material.
v/r Greg
Greg,
I recommend Invisable Glass which can be purchased at Sam's Club and Spray the cleaner on a micro fiber towel (buy American Made Cotton) and there will be no streaks on you glass. Great product for home use also.
jsjames
Jul 15 2007, 05:56 PM
QUOTE(StudentDoc @ Apr 22 2006, 12:54 PM) [snapback]190699[/snapback]
New owner of IS, how do you clean that suede/soft cotton interior stuff that is all over walls and ceiling? That stuff picks up all sorts of finger prints and I have tried to clean similiar materials before and it just smudged.
I would like to know this as well.
I'm a new owner of a 2004 black RX-330 and have some smudges on the cloth.
LexusLadyES330
Jan 2 2009, 03:42 AM
stay out of the snow!
peteanello
Feb 7 2009, 11:17 PM
QUOTE (SW03ES @ Mar 21 2003, 02:32 PM)

Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.
I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!
New '09 ES350 purchased 12/17/08...and I started noticing dust on the dash, around the knobs, plastic, etc. Ddin't find an answer here (although I got some of the best detailing tips ever). So, I went to a few auto parts stores and looked at some 2 dollar detailing brushes. Not wanting to use a $2 brush on my baby, I went to Longs (drugstore) and bought a $15 makeup brush (YES, very embarassing) that is so soft, it does the job perfect. Along with the tips to get the Sonus products, I'm a happy camper with a detailed car.
Hobowon
May 25 2009, 12:02 AM
QUOTE (peteanello @ Feb 7 2009, 11:17 PM)

QUOTE (SW03ES @ Mar 21 2003, 02:32 PM)

Hey everybody, just wanted to get the traffic moving a little bit in the detailing forum.
I wanted to start this thread up and give everyone a place to share those little tricks of the trade they've picked up over the years. Please, post away!
New '09 ES350 purchased 12/17/08...and I started noticing dust on the dash, around the knobs, plastic, etc. Ddin't find an answer here (although I got some of the best detailing tips ever). So, I went to a few auto parts stores and looked at some 2 dollar detailing brushes. Not wanting to use a $2 brush on my baby, I went to Longs (drugstore) and bought a $15 makeup brush (YES, very embarassing) that is so soft, it does the job perfect. Along with the tips to get the Sonus products, I'm a happy camper with a detailed car.
Have you noticed some of the cars with plastic headlamp covers oxidized so bad you wonder if any light at all is coming out. Had one on my SC400, went to Pep Boys and bought a headlamp lense restorer. Does awesome jpb. A point of caution: don't get in a hurry, spend a little extra time on applying the clarfyer and if at all possible, avoid using the little pads included in the kit; they could scratck the good work you have already done.
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