i just changed my rear trailing arm bushings on the rear hubs. take a look in the gallery on page 28and 29 ( i think) for pics.
common symptoms of worn trailing arm bushing:
actually i only know one, that is brake pulsation so bad that you can even feel it in your shifter.
i will ask some one with more computer skills than me to post this all on the workshop tutorials with a full write up. so i will keep everyone posted!
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/LS?page=28

Good pics! Do you have more on the install?

What year and mileage do you have on the LS.

And - besides the brake pulsation, did this "fix" any other problem?

Thanks for the work..

99

You did a good job man! Before you changed the bushing was there a problem with your rear-end that you notices while driving?

How much for the parts and how long does it take for the labor that you put in?

jzz30,
Great photos!! Is the same bushing that you changed?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=42609
He also sells the upper control arm busings ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=42609
... but I haven't checked with the dealer to see if his prices are good.

i will have some more on the install when my man AWJ in SC section has a bit of time to post in the workshop for me. my LS has 140k kickin miles and well i only noticed that the brake pulsation is gone and mybe its me but it seems smoother[QUOTE]You did a good job man! Before you changed the bushing was there a problem with your rear-end that you notices while driving?

How much for the parts and how long does it take for the labor that you put in?
the car would pulsate when brakes were applied. the labor part only took about an hour and half and another 15 min to machine my puch.
and the last question...yes thats the same bushing. the dealer charges $60 but i got it for 45 from them( i have an account 25% off) so the $40 deal is good

jzz30,

15 mins machine punch. What exactly the process there. I don't have a machine punch you think Pepboys may have it?

I believe he's saying that he machined a piece of metal into a "punch" that he used to press out the bushing. You can see the shiny silver circle in the picture that he's using with the 2-jaw.


Joe

sharp eye mejojo! yes thats correct. anything that is 33mm in diameter will work

Do you think using a "punch" that's only large enough to cover the inner metal sleeve would work as well to push out the sleeve and then the rubber comes out easy?


Joe

im not quite getting your question but i dont think if you try pushing on the inner sleve that the outer sleve will come out.

I was assuming that the metal sleeve inserted produced some pressure that expands the rubber a bit, and without the sleeve, the bushing could be removed more easily. That must not be the case, huh?

I was trying to figure out what I have (that may be smaller than 33mm) that I could use for the job since I don't have a machine shop.


Joe

go and see if someone sells a punch set at a tool company on line. if all fails i could just send you one for a couple bucks(for the aluminum) + shipping. or just send you the used one. do you have a puller ?

Thanks very much for the offer...it is appreciated!

I believe I've found a suitable object, so it's cool. Now I just have to buy the bushings.

Cheers,

Joe

I won the ebay item mentioned above and the seller agreed to send another one for the same price ($40). They don't make the bushings so there must be a cheaper source somewhere else.

The phone number for this place is 877-778-6968. I'm sure they would be willing to sell to anyone at this price.

I should be getting the bushings in a few days.

the dealer does not sell the factory replacement but they sell that exact one. it works fine and $40 seems right the good thing about this is if and or when the bushing goes out its really easy to change.

ok heres the story for the rear carrier bushing replacement. its really simple actually. tools needed:

breaker bar
torque wrench
19mm box
socket
33mm punch or more commonly available a sawzaw
2jaw puller (not needed if using a saw)
some grease


jack up the car of course, and take wheel off.


take off the 2, 19mm nuts off (there torqued to 163ft lbs so be ready) pop the two bolts out and off comes the trailing arm. then use the 2jaw puller and the 33mm punch to push out the old bushing sleve. if a punch is unavailable use a sawzaw to cut a slit in to the bushings outer case.





then grease the new bushing and push them in and but the trailing arm back on and tourqe the nut to 163ft lbs, but because of the lack of clearence torque the bolt, and double check the nut with a box wrench.
and thats it. slap the tire back on and feel the difference





Pictures and text by JZZ30. Arranged by AWJ. Enjoy.

Do you know if these replacement bushings are rubber or a polyurethane blend of some kind? David Phan (www.vftbushes.com) is reported to soon be selling the front control arm bushings for the 90-94 LS's and to soon thereafter be selling the rear control arm bushings. They are manufactured by Andrew Vlamos in Australia are reported to be extraordinary. There are general reports among SC owners that the polyurethane ones have a tendency to squeak.

i dont think they were urethane i think they were about the same kind of rubber thats on the car but maybe a bit stiffer (maybe? cause its 2 piece?) i would hope that it doesnt squeek then i would have to grease it up every 2-3years.

AJW/jzz30,

I need help guys...I am trying to replace the Rear Trailing Arm bushings for my 93 LS400 and hit a wall. I've managed to removed the Arm off and got the inner part of the bushing off, but is have a difficult time getting the outter shell of the bushing out. I have the 2Jaw Pulller but dont know how to get a hold of the an alluminum punch to press it out. I then purchased a Oxygen/MAPP gas torch from HomeDepot to try to heat it up to get it out but still have no luck. I have also tried using my 1" socket which is about the same diameter and attempted to tap it out by tapping it with the hammer after I torched. What is the trick to torching this outter piece? I have tried heating the edges of the ring and then also the steering knuckle itself, but have no luck. I am about to give up and drive it to one of these shops and have them torch it off for me.

Any suggestion?

Both sides are original pieces and looks like it bonded with the steering knuckle very tight.

Please help.

You guys are great!

email: somak2@yahoo.com

Don't press the sleeve out !! Just make a couple of cuts with a Sawzall into the sleeve (only the sleeve, it's not too thick) and then pop it out with a screwdriver.
Once the cuts are made it relieves the pressure and it will come right out. I wasn't able to find anything 33mm in size and tried using a 1" socket too. Once I figured out this method the other side was out in a couple of minutes. I think you could spend hours trying to press them out...

Some tips on this job. I did the second side in 36 minutes after learning from the 2 hour first side. Dont try and drill out the center section of the bushing, just put the bolt and nut back into it, tighten the nut and use your ratchet to twist the inner part out, took me 6 seconds! then use your sawzall and cut your sectional piece out and the rest will push out with your fingers. It took me about 2 minutes per cut and the center part was out in about 5 minutes,just be careful as the sawzall tends to move up and down a bit when it oscillates. I used regular lithium grease to lube them up on recomendation from a suspension guy as poly is impervious to petroleum based grease. You can even drill and tap a zerk fitting to the bottom of the knuckle and grease to your hearts content. I also used a long tapered rod (or big screwdriver) to align the knuckle to the shaft yoke once the new bushing was in place, it is very difficult to get them back in alignment without the leverage the screwdriver affords. The fix is worth its time on gold, what a difference the "new" bushing has on the quality of the ride ! They are $31 a side on Ebay right now. DO IT!!!