My car was sluggish, hesitating and backfiring. I went to Autozone prior to dropping off the car. The computer codes pulled were P0125, P1135, P1150 and P1155. What would your guys do to service the car?

Also, can anyone tell me if P1185 is a valid Lexus code. Seems a station says they pulled it on my car and I can't find it anywhere.

Yes, I got taken..

Thanks for any help

You may have a bad air/fuel sensor (they look like O2 sensors, but they are not the same. The 1150 codes indicates a bad heater in the one fuel sensor. They are located on the exhaust manifolds on the front and rear of the engine. If you replace them use original equipment only, as the aftermarket ones dont seem to always work...Search this site for venders that sell them cheaper, some have gotten them for around $135 apiece.

Believe you already know it's not a valid code. Wonder where they came up with that? You should ask them. It would be interesting to see what their answer was.

I had codes 0125, 1153, 1155, changed the front O2 sensor (underhood exhaust manifold) and the problem went away.

For me i believe the sensor was still functional, the heater malfunctioned. (both are parts of the af sensor)

when the cel was on, the car performed flawlessly. 22 mpg, normal. when i tested the old part, the heater loop was open circuit.


Maybe you have the same problem, there are many threads. Also, you can buy a OBDII tool and look at the o2 sensor values with the car running. Play detective.

GB- Yes, when the heater is inop (broken) it will have little discernable effect on the way the engine runs because the heater is not actually on much of the time. Most of the time the exhaust heat gives the A/F sensors all the heat they need to function properly.

Just to support issues with multiple check engine codes. I testing my check engine and got P1153, P1155, P0171, P0125, P1130. By reading all of the forum responses and research on causes linked to the codes, I started with replacement of the fourn air/fuel ratio sensor. thie sensor is easy to get to and change. The part I went back with was 89467-48011 by Toyota. Research also discovered the part number 89467-48010 is the same part only about 1 1/2 inches shorter in length. No problems installing it was just a little shorter making the plug in connection. Many part houses use the same part for either number. The sensor errors result in the other check engine codes. It would be rare to have both fail at the same time. Regardless it is worth the money to change one at a time. The part was installed in 5 minutes with a 21mm wrench and screwdriver to depress the tab on the connector end of the sensor to unplug. I cleared the check engine light with the OBD. No return of check engine. The part can be ordered by mail for 300.00 from a OEM dealer house. Or 150.00 from aftermarket and 110.00 from ebay in the OEM Toyota box sealed from vendor. Hope this helps and saves everyone money.