Well my ES350 is up to 50,000 miles so I decided it is time to flush the trans because I don't ever want to run ATF 100k like the manual says. I did it today successfully via the trans cooler lines and the old fluid was very dark red and stunk quite a bit.

Tools needed:

3/8 ratchet
Torque wrench
6mm allen socket
15/16 socket
short extension
pliers
1 gallon graduated drain painters bucket (ace hardware $2)
IR thermometer
6" funnel with 2' hose attached
1' plece of clear tubing 3/8"

12 quarts WS ATF ( $6.60/qt by the case at a Toyota dealer)
Crush washer gaskets for the drain & fill plugs.

Engine & trans must be completely cold. (best if sat overnight)

The trans fill plug is located by removing a small plastic splash panel in the drivers side wheel well. (15/16) It is stamped WS on the plug. Turn the wheel all the way to the left for easy access.

The drain/dip tube plug is on the bottom of the trans pan (6mm allen)

Remove the wheel well spash piece exposing the fill plug. Break the plug loose.
Remove the driver side plastic under pan exposing the 2 rubber cooler lines on the bottom of the trans.
Remove drain/dip tube plug from trans. About 1 quart of ATF will drain out
Replace drain/dip tube plug in trans pan snug but do not torque
Remove fill plug and insert hose/funnel balance funnel on strut spring in wheel well
Add 1 quart of WS ATF leaving hose in fill hole.

Remove the clamp (slide up hose with pliers) on the cooler line on the drivers side
Slip cooler hose off fitting aim into bucket
Slip clear tubing over cooler fitting aim into bucket

Have helper start car....2 quarts of fluid will pump out. When air pumps out shut off car immmediately.
Add 2 quarts of WS ATF to fill hole with funnel
Repeat pumping out 2 quarts at a time starting car and shutting off quickly until you have pumped 11 quarts through.

You should have 11 quarts out and 11 quarts in( be sure to count them)

By 11 quarts the fluid should be coming out clean.

Reconnect cooler line with factory clamp
Add 1/2 quart WS ATF in fill hole. Install fill plug snug but do not torque yet

Start car and check for leaks.

Cycle trans shift lever through PRNDL 3 times

With car running check trans oil pan with IR thermometer until it reaches 104F
AT 104F remove trans pan drain/dip tube plug and allow fluid to drain until it becomes a trickle. Quickly install plug back in pan. ( about 1/2 quart came out of mine)
Shut off engine.

Torque fill plug to 35 foot lbs
Torque pan drain dip tube plug to 30 foot lbs.

Start car and test drive 5 miles and check for leaks.

Replace plastic underbody and splash panel.

You are done.

Note: the car should be level for the trans oil dip tube measurement so since my ES sits low in the front I used 2 floor jacks to lift the front end about 6" .

Good luck hope this helps.

Wow I thought on sealed transmissions like the one on my 09 IS350 said transmission flush and replace of fluid would never be needed. Am I wrong?

Cool write up KBRX.....I don't trust a 100k mile interval for the fluid change either. Good news too is Amsoil now makes a WS ATF. Thanks for sharing.

Depends on how long you want to keep the car. The book says 100k and the dealers say the same thing but they all said that about the RX300's and 330's with the T-IV fluid which was supposed to be "better" than DexronIII. Many of the RX300 transmissions went South at 90-100k. The 330's were better but I have seen posts where people were putting a $5,000 trans in at 125k. I keep my cars for at least 150,000 miles so the $100.00 I spend flushing the transmissions every 50,000 miles trumps the $5,000 replacement cost.

But for me? I never go past 50,000 miles with any ATF. Just way too easy to replace it.

Amsoil makes a WS??? Since when? What do they call it?

Here you go....it's fairly new, but I heard it was in the pipeline...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atl.aspx

Thanks, that will be going in on the next flush for sure. The WS I drained at 50k didn't look any different than the T-IV from my RX330.

Amsoil is all I use....whether it be in place of Toyota Type IV or WS fluid.

Where?! I've never seen any such failures on here...

I have seen several at my dealer and independent Toyo mechanic alone. The 330 trans is much better than the 300 but they still need new fluid before 100k. Then add to the difficulty in finding a shop that will rebuild them and you are stuck going back to Lexus for a replacement unit.

Here is one.

Posted on: Dec 20 2007, 02:23 AM


New Club Member


Group: Regular Member
Posts: 6
Joined: 20-December 07
Member No.: 60,327


Hello all,
I am new to the forum and I currently have a 2004 RX 330, which lexus has to buy back..because of the bad transmission shifting.. The dealer told me to try the 2006 version of the RX 330, he said that the 2004 was a bad year and a 2006 is better. Is there anyone out there with a 2006 rx 330 with bad transmission shifting between the first and second gears?

Well thats a bad shift that Lexus bought back...hardly a transmission failure due to wear...

ok...you are 100% right.......run your ws fluid for as long as you want and keep your fingers crossed. The next time I post I'll make sure to consult you for your expert advice first.

Thats not what I'm saying at all. I absolutely would flush the fluid and often, I've replaced the fluid in my car every 15k miles which is way more than what is reccomended...its cheap insurance.

My comment was simply that I personally have never heard of a failure on an RX330 due to wear, which I absolutely cannot say about the RX300. Transmissions can fail, but there is no question the RX330 has a more reliable transmission than the 300. I simply expressed surprise at your comment because it was contrary to my experience.

By the way...check the attitude at the door. This is a discussion forum, and if you can't handle someone commenting on your comments or challenging your statements...don't post.