My Lexus 350 has 22,000 miles on it and the front brakes are grinding metal to metal. THe dealership has told me this model needs brakes every 12,000-20,000 miles. This seems to soon and I am wondering if my brakes were not installed properly when I purchased the car new last year.
Pleas advise

It really depends on a lot of things, the type of driver, the type of driving, the temps and climate of where the vehicle is driven. There really isn't a "specific" time. The GS is a heavy car, and if you drive it with some spirit, I could see brake life like that.

Lexus OEM pads are pretty soft too in an effort to keep them quiet.

On the owner's manual, its states that the GS use high friction brake pads and may need to be replace as soon as 20000 miles. If you need new pad, I would ask for the Lexus low dust pads which will last longer or use afteramrket pads.

Thank you. I just picked my car up and will have to check back with them to make sure they used these pads. How many more miles (avg.) should you expect from these pads. I really appreciate the information
Awaysack

I drive very aggressively at times and I went through my original high friction pads in 7000 miles. I then switched to the low dust pads and after a 120mph speeding ticket I toned down the driving a bit and I now have 30000 on the car and the same low dust pads. They do not stop the car as well as the high friction pads but the difference is small and they will squeak when stopping but the longevity and cleanliness of the rims is a worthy trade off unless you are hyper critical about performance then stick with the high friction pads.
Anthony

Not sure I'm a fan of the squeaking part...Not cool to be pulling in a parking lot with the car squeaking as you brake to stop...it gets annoying at times..

aftermkt!!!!
I have the soft pads...aka the hi dust pads.. they are almost worn out..I just ordered some akebono ceramics..anyone ever used them?

very reputable name. I believe akebono actually makes the Toyota/Lexus pads. Ceramics are great except they can be very harsh on the rotors so don't be surpirsed if you are replacing rotors in the next 25k miles. You will see a dramatic decrease in the amount of dust.

steviej

Thanks as always steviej..
I got them yesterday in the mail..Im going to put them on next week though.. they are oem so to speak for toyota I confirmed..Going on the GS on monday though..Just too much to do during xmas. And dont want to break in ceramics on my road trip to orlando this weekend in case something odd happens...My pads are good for another 1-2k per the dealer inspection, but figured Id just get rid of them now because the dust is just crazy..Worse than my BMW was. Had my first dealer service at Lexus of Tampa Bay in Clearwater and for 50 bucks they changed the oil, cleaned the car, and did the fluids and fixed my Navi rattle all in 4 hrs with a loaner..I was thrilled..Top notch lexus treatment..It was like royalty compared to the bmw and infiniti (nightmares) I had recently. Glad to be 4 miles from a solid lexus dealer!
Happy Hoilidays to all!!

did you check into the most recent TSB from Lexus for the dusty brake pads, you might have been able to get new pads for free.
steviej

Thanks stevie,
Wr might I find the TSB?
I can still return mt ake's as they arent going on the car till next week..They will replace the hi dust pads for free?? Is that what you have? DO they make noise though? THanks in advance

The dealership will have all the info on the TSB but it applies to the 2007 and 2008 GS. If you have a 2006, then just put your ake's on.
Your personal information only states that you have a GS but fails to state the year, I was assuming due to the dust problem that you had an 07 or 08. I found a previous post that I think you state you had an 06.


steviej

Steviej,

You are correct-I have the 430 not a 07...Didn't know if they are diff. than the 07 or not or if the V8 was heavier etc...BUT the first owner told me he originally had a noise problem, and they put on softer pads at no charge at the dealership but they are just too dusty for me..So I was thinking these are the soft 07 pads everyone is talking about...Cant see Lex making a softer pad thats diff than the 07 since theyre still basically the same car and HP etc...I think im going to guinea pig the ake's since ive already paid shipping and have never had ceramics..My father has had them on his E55 which is a pretty heavy car for 2.5 yrs without any issues or rotor damage. I will report back after new yearsClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I think the rotors are totally different on the 07 and 08 from the 06s.

Let me know how you like the ceramics, as I will be doing brakes in about 10k miles.

steviej.

Oh I didnt realize they had a rotor change...I will def. give an update on performance after a month or so!

sorry, I meant calipers.

My Brakes went at 11,000 miles but were covered by warranty. I agree they shhould last much longer.

how do you know when the brakes are gone? i suspect you'll hear a scratching/squeeling noise. I'm concerned cause i have 26k miles on my ride with the original brake pads..no issues so i hope it's not metal to metal yet...the brakes on my RX300 lasted till 60k!!..sounds like these GSes are not equipped with the same type of pads. =(

Second question - do you have to complain to get the TSB for the dustless pads or will they just do it if you ask (even in my case with 26k miles?)

you should hear the distinct squeal of the brake wear indicator. It is a small piece of metal that will barely touch the rotor as the pads wear down. This contact creates a vibration in the indicator. That vibration will be heard as a high pitched squealing noise when the car is rolling but not when the brake pedal is applied. If you routinely rotate your tires, then that is a good time to look. The brake pads have a channel that you can see that give you an indication of how much pad material is left.




If your front wheels are coated with black brake dust, you should be able to just roll into your dealership and ask about the TSB that will take care of it. Tell them you are tired of your Lexus reminding you of a Mercedes Benz.

steviej

Im about 7k mi deep on the Ake ceramics..and I gotta say im pretty thrilled with them. NO DUST, great stopping power ( ive had two emergency stops in them already avoiding FL drivers!) and they are totally noise free. Def recomend them if you are looking for pads Steve!

My GS300 is in the shop for recall work and they said my front pads need to be replaced for $300. I've always changed my own pads on my cars with no problems (98 Diamante and 2004 Volvo S80) and when he said $300 I figured it can't be that hard to place them. He mentioned some pin that that is causing my inside pad to wear faster than the outside pad. Should I go ahead and pull the trigger or should I save the money and do it myself? My dad and I handy with these kind of things so I figured I could save the money. Have any of you changed your own?

if you can do it yourself and you know what your are doing, then this is a no brainer.

I will be doing my own in the next couple of weeks. I am just trying to figure if I am going to get new shims, new brake kit and new stainless steel lines.
I don't do anything small. The other side of me says replace the pads with Ake's or Hawks and just cut the rotors.

It is not uncommon for me to argue with myself.


steviej.

That is right there has been no TSB for 06 models except for 07/08 model.. here is one just in case you want to know.

Turns out I only needed to replace the pads. Shims, lines and rotors were fine. However, 500 miles into a set of Hawk Performance Ceraminc Pads and I absolutely hate them. The give off more dust than a BMW or MB. Totally unacceptable for the price I paid. I am working with Tirerack to replace with Akebono ProACT ceramics or get a refund and just go back to stock.

steviej

Sorry to hear the Hawks didn't work out. Hopefully Tire Rack is willing to work with you on it. Let us know if you go with the Akebonos since I'll likely have a brake job due before the end of the summer. I had a new ES while my GS was in for service - huge difference in stopping power relative to my car so I figure it's time for new pads.

TireRack offered me the Ake's at half price. I am putting them on Sunday.
A CL member in NV wants my discarded Hawk pads. It all works out fine.
Hopefully the Ake's will be virtually dustless.

steviej

Did you get the new pads on? How are they working out? (yes, it has only been a few days, but figured I'd ask anyway!)

Much better than the Hawk Performance Ceramincs. The Akebono ProACT Ceramics are quieter than the Hawks, they have as much stopping power if not a little better than the previous stock pads but most of all they have minimal dust. Now mind you I am only 200 miles into them, but very little has built up if any at all. I am very pleased. The next question will be to see if I get over 50k miles out of them as I did the original stock pads.

Thanks for asking.

steivej

I assume you're still happy with the Akebono's, stevie? I figure you've probably got at least another 1K on them?

I really need to do my brakes before it gets cold. Will probably order the same pads based on your experience. Did you order anything else besides pads - new shims, or other hardware? Or are just the pads needed? This'll be my first time doing brakes on the GS (I've done several Nissan's and Honda's before). Looking at the service manual, it seems more complicated than those cars (i've never bled brake lines to install pads before!). I'm assuming that once I get the new pads in, I can just use a C-clamp to push the piston back as I have done in other cars, or is that a bad idea?

Thanks

Actually, I have close to 2,000 miles on them. I absolutely love them and couldn't beat the price from TireRack.com.
You don't need to buy anything else (just maybe some blue goo, aka: Permatex Brake Quiet). The pads come with a new shim attached. I removed them and reattached them with a thin coat of brake quiet to help reduce any squeal. The stock pads had two shims so I used the stock outer shim as the outer shim with the new pads (applying some brake quiet as well).

The front brakes are a piece of cake. Two 14mm caliper pins/bolts and the caliper comes off the cradle. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the pistion, tighten the brake bleed, then remove the caliper and hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger or something. The old pads slip right out. Transfer the wear indicator to the new pads - - its just clips on. Insert the new pads into the slots, replace the caliper, relube the caliper slides on the pins, tighten and you are done. You don't even have to bleed since no air got in the system.

The back brakes are even easier. The caliper doesn't have to be removed. Remove a transverse spring clip, then the two long spring clips (inside and outside). Remove the two pins and slide the pads out. Loosen the brake bleed, compress the caliper, tighten the brake bleed. Reattach the brake wear indicators to the new pads, slip them in, insert the two pins, and then the three spring clips. Done.

There are two good pictorial threads in the 3rd gen. GS section on CL. Search overthere on my name and you will find them.

On the brake bleed and pistion compression. I have made a handy device. Its a 6 inch length of tube that fits snuggly on the bleed screw. On the other end I put a one way check valve and then a 15 inch section of tubing off the other side of the valve. The valve is not absolutely necessary but helps. Just a lenght of tubing will work fine. At the other end of the tubing is a container to catch the old fluid that will come out. Open the bleed screw, and use a pry, large screw driver or reverse pliers (when you squeeze they open) to spread the old pads and thus compress the piston. With the bleed screw open, the old fluid is expressed out and the piston has less resistance and compresses very easily. Once compressed, close the bleed screw. The one way valve in the line or the fluid in the line will prevent air from going back into the caliper. The C-clamp is fine but since you are not undoing the brake line, it may be hard to get it on under the the wheel well and negotiate the strut. Just top off the reservoir when done.


Three weeks after I put the pads in, I installed stainless steel brake lines. These helped reduce the spongy feeling the GS brake system has. This time the lines did come off, so a thorough bleeding of the brake system was in order. I actually evacuated the reservoir, added new fluid, and purged a complete resevoir of fluid through the brakes to get all the old fluid and air out once the new lines were on.

The pads and stainless lines give me absolutely incredible response and great stopping power with minimal to no dust.

steviej

Thanks for all the great info. I saw your earlier post about the SS brake lines and was thinking about doing the same. The only reservation I have is how the extra "bite" will handle in the Chicago winters. I found the GS skidding quit a bit last year as soon as I'd tap the brake, and I'm afraid that with a more potent brake, I'll only worsen the problem. I know you use dedicated winter tires in the snow, so you may not see this issue at all.

I did find a couple of pictoral threads on the CL forum. Thanks for the pointer!!

Thanks!