I had the usual problem with my right rear door, the lock actuator getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on lexus actuator on ebay and came up with this part:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item..._ACTUATOR_.html

When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided
I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way
you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)
thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)


It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi

Hi Indi,

I'm having the same problem with my front passenger door. Given the cost for new parts and labor, almost $500 in California at the dealership, I'm tempted to try your fix, but reading through several posts, it sounds like a nightmare to get the door panels off. Can you provide step-by-step instructions? Of course any photos you might have of your work would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks for your great fix!

It's not too hard I have had both front and back panels off, just be careful not to lock your keys in the car like I did

If you have an RX maybe other models are similar the door open lever inside has a screw in it
There are 2 big screws in the door pull shut handle inside.
There is a series of push in fasteners around the edge panel of the door, you just push the center in and they pull right out
There are 2 screws on the bottom of the door panel.
The power window switches pry up carefully they have clips that hold them in. There should be a panel screw under there too. Unplug the switches and set them aside.
After removing all the screws..
You should be able to remove the door now.. Pull down under the bottom lip/edge and pop the bottom out first lift up and you can remove it being careful to unplug any wires....
I edited my text in the first message it should be easier to read now...... I even had a hard time reading it.. LOL
I did this actuator on the rear door. The front door may be a little different or maybe easier. Let us know how it goes. It won't hurt that much to try the part is cheap enough. Check my edit from above a front door application may be easier as there are connecting rods to the key lock..

I did a conversion on the front door tonight. It cannot be connected to the lock connecting rod as the lock connecting rod will not move without the key in the door lock. So I installed it in an almost similar fashion to the rear door installation hooking it to the old locking actuator. The front actuator is positioned different so I had to hook the connecting rod to the bottom cam stop lever. It's the little lever, a position stop with the rubber band bumper around it. There is already a hole in it so I pushed the rod through it so the riveted end of the rod was on this cam lever. I bent an open loop in the other end to hook up the actuator. I had to install the actuator inside the door towards the bottom of the door using no strap and putting 2 screws (supplied) through door panel directly into the actuator screw holes. I snapped some pictures these are a bit large, but will show you close up how I connected the rod to the old and new actuator. After I hooked everything up making sure the polarity was correct before soldering the wires (never use crimps) it works excellent. The wires aren't attached yet in this picture.... Indi

Very nice. I happened to have the same issue. Thank you so much for your contribution!

Wynstan

You are welcome! Let us know how your repair goes... Indi

I have a 2000 Rx 300, no luck removing the door panel....somewhere I'm missing a screw? Help?

did you get the screw under the switch assembly. I mean you have to remove the switch assembly to get to it.....

if it is the same as 1999 front door there is a screw under the window switches, one under the inside door open lever, another under the arm rest, and 2 under the very bottom of the door in plain site. The rear door is a little different. there is a plastic cover over the end arm rest bottom screw.

Removed all still seemed like something was holding it (seemed like it was still secured somewhere near the door open lever). Did not want to force it, help?

I know exactly what you mean. If you first took the screw out from behind the door open lever, then there are still some plastic hook like hinges holding the handle in. There are 2 plastic tooth hinges that that hook into the sheet metal you pull out on the end of the plastic surround pulling out near the end of the lever and pry it out to unhook it you should then be able to remove it. It's about then that you realize how cheesy the door open lever is

Can you requote that, i did not understand it? Am I prying the door lever assembly out?

A screw holds in one side two hooks hold in the other side it is hooked into the sheet metal. You don't usually have to pry it out as much as you would tilt it out so you can unhook it from the holes.. Let us know.... Indi

for 2000 RX 300 Driver door

just follow Indi's instruction on how to remove the door panel ( 3 removable pins and screw around the panel. 1 screw under the armrest, 1 under the door lock switches, 1 behind the inside door opening lever)

there are two bundled wires inside the door panel and you need to look for the blue wires inside of a 6 wire bundle. connect the blue actuator wire to the BLUE/YELLOW wire and connect the GREEN antuator wire to the BLUE/RED wire.

TIPS

1. a metal file will be useful for grinding parts
2. attached the new actuator first with the window glass up to get some good clearance
3. aligator clips are very helpful when testing

here is a threadwith pictures for door panel removeal:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288373

Thanks Indiana for re-reminding the folks that are just facing this VERY COSTLY repair for the 1st. time. There has been a lot written on it in the past- search will show. Also on Club Lexus. I did it on all 4 doors on my DIL's RX at actually $0. with free donated locks. You have to leave all the old lock actuators in place because they have all the strip sensors inside to operate all the other stuff that they interface with. Also, you don't have to drill any holes, there are already existing holes in the mechanism that aren't used. The drivers door works fine with the "piggy-back" lock- just like the original did. I could not see putting out $1300. for locks when this works just like the original and retains all the functions of the original assemblies. (sensors and all) They have worked flawlessly for almost 2 yrs. now. I just used 90 degree taps on the wires to piggy-back the wires onto the existing wires without cutting them. That's no problem here in corrosion free So. Cal.- wet areas probably should solder and water seal the connections.- Roger

P.S.- Don't be intimidated by the write-up on taking the door panels off- It's actually not bad once you've done one, by the second or third you could do it with your eyes closed.

My RR door actuator stopped working as well. I used to install after market alarms and auto door locks for a living and I can't believe I never thought to do this. Thanks for the info.

Well, my $262 actuator failed again only after 4 1/2 years. I bought a pair of lock actuators on ebay for $13.99 delivered to my house. Installed one today, I forgot how tight it was to replace the lock mechanism last time. My original actuator arm didnt have a hole, but a open slot. I had to drill a hole through the arm and used a paper clip to tie the actuator rod to that slot. the actuator solenoid motor is mounted like the picture in the earlier post, but position is important in that it can hit the window channel if positioned wrong. All said and done, it works, thanks for the great pictures. I have a spare solenoid for future failures...Cost less than $15.
Here is an example of the actuators:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...p3756.m14.l1318

Just wanted you guys to know that I just did my front, drivers side door with the Parts Express replacement. All the instructions were a great help, in fact, I wouldn't have figured it out without them.

My only catch was the polarity was reversed on my actuator - other than it went fine.

Thanks for all your help!

Working on a 2000; I followed Indianas directions, were very good. Got the door panel off without a hitch, everything went smooth up until I went to pull the old actuator out to piggyback the new actuator to it. From what I am seeing, I cannot get the old acuator out far enough to work on it due to its plastic cover being installed behind the window guide. It seems I need to get the old acuator out to the vicinity of the large opening where the actuator wiring harness goes into the door. Have those of you who have completed this repair been able to get a drill in without getting the old actuator over to this area? Or, what am I not doing or missing that is keeping me from getting the old actuator out from behind the window guide and to a point where I can work on it (see and access the cams)?

GLC- Yes you have to remove the plastic shield, and I believe the rear window guide. Don't quote me on that. (it's been about 2+ yrs. since I did it) You mentioned a drill. Someone else mentioned in the past having to drill a hole for the linkage. On my DIL's RX I replaced all 4 actuators and I didn't have to drill any holes because all 4 actuators had an unused arm with a hole in it that worked perfectly. You MIGHT not have to remove the lock assy., or at least remove the screws so you can twist it out where you can get to the arm to attach the linkage. Probably will but might luck out and not have to. The more I think about it I'm almost positive you'll have to remove the shield and rear guide and the screws that hold the door latch, but I don't think you'll have to disconnect or remove the lock and actuator assy., just twist it around where you can get to the unused arm so that you can attach you rod. I hope you find the hole already there so you don't have to drill it. Good Luck!

I just replaced the little motor on the actuator on the front passenger side door. It took a long time but seems to work pretty good.
The problem I'm having now is that my keyless entry won't work. Both key fobs won't open car doors , but the car will open up manually and car will start.
How do I reprogram the car so the keys will work?
I've researched this site and others and it seems like the ignition/brake pedal programming is to program the keys, but the key part I think is fine--it's the car part that got thrown off I believe.
I'd appreciate any help.
Thanks.

Are your batteries ok in the key fob? You shouldn't have to reprogram they key.

My battery tester showed both batteries in fobs were good. I went to Radio Shack and they tested them and they were good.

UPDATE:FOUND OUT WHATS GOING ON.
I couldn't open my passenger side door with the key manually. Took everything apart on door and got door to open and then keyless entry worked!
My actuator motor install wasn't completely perfect and jammed up my manual opening of the door. I'll redo everything and I should be okay.

Hi, I just got small motors and I am getting ready to replace it in actuator in driver door, I am planning to follow instructions from this link: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289839

How much difference is RX300 from GS mention in above instructions? Any tips for RX300?

**********************
Pardon my descriptions of things, my DYI are always an adventure, but I've done okay over the years.
No need to remove window, but the job is time consuming and a pain in the ass. My job was half ass but only spent $2 for the motor rather than $240, so I feel pretty good.
Getting that actuator plastic casing apart is near impossible. I can see the old motor in there and so I dremeled all around the plastic to get to it--very carefully not to cut into the gears and connectors.

I couldn't get the small collar (coupler?) off the new motor, and the old motor's twisty end that fits inside the small pointy gear wouldn't come off either. I just put some super glue inside the long pointy gear and put the end of the new motor in. The new motor fits snug but perfect I believe. I tested the lock and the new motor fired up. After 10-12 times, it stopped turning the gear, just spinning going no where. I took it off, cleaned glue off and put more glue in there and let it dry for 30 minutes rather than 2 minutes. It turned the gears with no probs on and off for 10 minutes.

I have half the actuator exposed and pieces of old plastic not really practical to put back on. But everything was fairly intact, but when the motor is turning it wants to pop up a bit. I duck taped it and wrapped rubber bands all around the motor and it stays put. Half ass like I said, but it worked!!

Getting the cable back on was a pain and fitting the actuator back in the same position caused my keyless entry not to work for the day. I had to go back in the door and play around some more with it and now it's all good. I hope the glue holds up so it will keep working. Time will tell.

Good luck!!

Out of curiosity, why didn't you retrofit a new $10 actuator as described in the posts instead of trying to install a new motor on the existing actuator?

That retrofit sounded hairy and the motor replacement looked easy, but it wasn't. I got the 5 motors off ebay for $10, and now have extras incase some more locks (motors) go bad.

[/quote]
Out of curiosity, why didn't you retrofit a new $10 actuator as described in the posts instead of trying to install a new motor on the existing actuator?
[/quote]
[/quote]
That retrofit sounded hairy and the motor replacement looked easy, but it wasn't. I got the 5 motors off ebay for $10, and now have extras incase some more locks (motors) go bad.
[/quote]

The retrofit is actually easier than the replacement of the motor. I replaced all 4 on my DIL's RX before I ever found this site. I replaced them with donated Ford actuators. I was funding the project and couldn't justify the $1300. cost of the 4 Lexus actuators so instead spent a little bit of time and $0. I've always liked a challenge and might have used the e-bay actuators (would have been a little easier), but got the Ford's for $0.

By the way, I split 3 of the 4 Lexus actuators apart to see if I could repair the motor (figured it was the brushes), and I just used a razor knife and split them at the seam. They actually split pretty neat and then I just super glued them back together when I was done. You could hardly tell they had been opened. The Ford actuators haven't missed a beat in almost 2 1/2 years.

i will pay money to someone with a labelled diagram or pictures of what to do

or can you define in laymans terms

what these words mean can i have a definition:

actuator rod
manual locking cam lever
mounting strap
shroud
crimping


i can help you with your science homework in return, or anything related to healthcare

woudl appreciate someone to label this picture attached

or tell me if it will work for this job 1999 rx300

Dear LexusOwnersClub,

I am a 24 y/o law student with better than average IQ and with a history of being able to fix things I am a DIY guy!! I came across this post and bought a new actuator for my 99 Rx300, i followed the directions on taking my door off and was able to do it sucessfully in under 15 minutes. Now the problem was putting the actuator in, I found it very hard to follow these instructions and basically was scratching my head the whole time and gave up and put everything back together.

I basically had the actuator in my hand and i could see where it probably should go but did not understand any of the vocab used by the original poster. If someone could translate it into laymans terms or everyday people talk that would be great.

To all others who are not mechanics or havent ever taken anything on a car apart. This job is not for u, please do not change your own actuator.

I did the repair, and yes hooking up the rod to the original actuator was difficult to understand. Also mine had a split arm where as the original had a arm with a hole in it. I had to add some expoxy to hold the rod in place. Knock on wood mine has worked fine since. If I do mine again I will take pictures.

Take a look at my posts on this subject. What the OP didn't explain was that you have to remove the old actuator in order to see what you have to do and actually do it. Once you can see it, you can easily relate to the pics and do the job. Believe me, I am not a mechanic and I did this job w/o too much difficulty once I realized you have to remove the old actuator. Now, when I say remove, I don't mean completely remove it from the door. You have to disassembly the door latch and linkage at the door latch and you have to remove the 3 screws in the jamb. Then you can maneuver the old actuator and take care of business. The most difficult thing is placing the new actuator in position and drilling holes for it which will line-up properly.

thanks for the inspiration.


a few questions


I can make it this far what do i do next?

I take the door off and im left with that blue plastic over the door frame

i take that apart and in my case the drivers door there is an access hole to the bottom left.

now:

do i take those bolts out around it so i can disassemble the old actuator?

i got a new silver rod with my new actuator where does that hook onto?

what do i do exactly with the new actuator where i place it?

do i have to drill holes or cani affix it someother way? where do i affix it?

when crimping what wires do i crimp into?those two thick ones?

do i have to crimp or can i just twist them tightly into those thick wires?

im confused of the whole connecting the old actuator to the new one. where do i attach it?

thanks in advance. if i can do this i will donate 20$ to the forums

The answers to your questions can be found by searching this site. I do not have time to give you a detailed answer to every question but I will make a few comments. You do not have to diassemble the old actuator. You will see a lever with a hole in it which is the perfect place to attach linkage for new actuator. You can see this lever moving when you manually operate the door lock which you can do with the wiring harness temporarily plugged in. The new linkage has a 90 degree bend with an enlarged head. You will have to grind this head down a little in order for it to push through the hole in the lever. Don't grind too much because you want a friction fit. The new linkage will be too long so you will have the shorten it and bend it to form a loop which will go into the new actuator. You will determine the new linkage length by making sure the old actuator is back in position and holding the new actuator in a position which allows clearance. You will have to drill two holes in the door sheet metal so you can screw the new actuator in place. Locating the holes just takes a little patience making sure you allow for the total linkage travel. I made a paper template which was very helpful. I forget the color of the wires you will be splicing into but that info can be found by searching this forum. Check operation before you solder to make sure you have the right polarity. This all sounds more complicated than it is.

what does linkage mean? what do u mean head? is the head the part that is springy and u can pull up and down that has that white thing with the hole in it?




thanks in advance i appreciate u taking ur time to help.

Linkage is the "silver rod" which came with the new actuator. It will link the new actuator to the old actuator. I assume it is about 300 mm long with a right angle (90 degree) bend. After the bend it is about 25mm long. At the end of the 25mm length it terminates with an enlarged head. This head is too big to push through the hole in the old actuator lever hole so it must be ground or filed down. You could enlarge the hole in the old actuator lever but it is plastic and enlarging the hole would make it too weak.

Artbuc-Isn't the end of the rod with the "dog knot" the end that's meant to go through the end of the actuator? And then you cut and bend the other (straight end) in a modified Z (2- 90 degree bends) to fit through the unused hole in the actuator arm. (assuming he has the unused hole, some seem to have a different setup) Maybe I'm not understanding what you were saying but at least that's the way I understand it.

It's really quite easy when you visualize it. I had to do all of my own engineering before I found this site and I replaced all 4 of my DIL's with Ford actuators and made my own rods- a lot more work. I wish I had found this site 1st. before I did her RX, it would have made it a lot easier for me.

so basically i am this far:

i will open adn close the lock mechanism lever to find a little hole which will fit the new silver rod. the head of the rod is too big to go thru the hole so i gotta grind it to put it thru the hole. the lever is near the top or the middle junk with the old actuator? do i have to cut the silver rod? how did u guys cut it? and why do i bend it? after i bend it what do i attach it to?

btw how the hell do u guys do all this the access hole is so small and dark


thanks in advance u guys are awesome. appreciate u helping out someone who has no knowledge on this subject.

also need a few definitions


what is the actuator rod? what is the manual locking cam lever? what is the manual locking wire?

and to everyone else, what wires do i splice into those two big thick ones?

I don't think it makes any difference. I put the "dog knot" thru the hole in the old actuator because that is the way the pics showed it on the ClubLexus forum. The linkage rod is not easy to bend. I just bent it into a 180 degree u-bend to hook thru the new actuator. There isn't much room at the old actuator so putting the dog knot there made sense to me.

after the door is off there are some bolts on the metal panel that looks like it holds the actuator in place

do i remove these?

is this the correct steps?


i connect the new rod to the manual locking cam, and bend the rod to fit on the new actuator, after tihs all i gotta do is affix the new actuator somewhere (where do i affix it) and splice the wires in, and done?

FYI

This is the EXACT motor used in the rx300 would it be easier if i just swapped motors?


http://cgi.ebay.com/5-NEW-Mabuchi-Mini-Mot...id=p3286.c0.m14

Since I didn't take the old actuator apart I don't know how easy if would be to replace the motor. I think Code58 did take the old actuator apart because he inspected the old motor to see if he could replace the brushes.

I would say go for it and let us know how you make out. Thanks for the info on the motor.

PS. There is a thread in the ClubLexus forum which gives a detailed description of the motor replacement. I don't know how to post the link but it is in the GS 2nd Generation Forum. Do a search on "actuator" and you will see a thread started by TRD911 on 6/23/07. I don't know if it translates exactly to the RX300, but it contains a tremendous amount of information.

I am so close but still too far, have the inside cover open and I can see the inside now, but just don't understand or say don't trust myself to un-screw the original actuator and hook up the new one, specially the rod alligntment, size, etc, Is any of you are in Houston, TX area and help me out, I will pay you or buy you a decent meal or whatever, I hate to put it all back without fixing it. thanks
P.S. please reply to my email: getsw@alltel.net

I did crack 3 of the actuators apart (2 of the door and the rear lid actuator) and though I had to figure it all out myself because I hadn't found the accounts of how to do it at that time (that was over 2 1/2 years ago), I still would prefer to do the piggy back. It is really quite easy with the aftermarket universal actuators. I did all 4 of the doors and used donated Ford CV actuators so my linkage was a lot more work but I would still do it that way. With the universal actuators it actually is a lot easier than it was for me. If the "hobby" motor was a direct fit I might be tempted to go that way but from what I remember those that did it had to do a little bit of changing of the fitting on the "business" end of the shaft on the motor. A search should show exactly what had to be done (with pictures). For those that want to change the motor rather than add the actuator, I believe the GS that they did it on is close enough that the instructions should apply to an RX also. By the way, I used a sharp "razor knife" and was able to split the actuator shell open neatly enough that it easily "super glued" back together nicely.

To bad you're not in the So. Cal. area, I would be happy to do it free for you. If you have any mechanical aptitude, once you've done it once you'll see how easy it is and you could come close to doing it with your eyes closed the second time. I would actually use the "dog knot" on the actuator end and use a modified "Z" (2- 90 degrees) on the other end where it attaches to the original actuator. With the door panel off, it shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to do the actual hook up once you have done 1 and have a clear understanding of what to do (and how easy it is).

Saikaiting- I believe you would probably be better off using the motors if they are "the exact" motors and not just close. I didn't have much problem cracking the actuators apart (I split them on the seam with a razor knife) and just "Super Glued" them back together. I prefer the other actuators but it may be too hard for some of the people that need to do this to visualize exactly what to do.

First of all thanks for the free offer, I am pretty handy with stuff, actually I am an IT guy and pretty much do anything with desktop/laptop/servers, etc and I get more exicited knowing that it is very easy, it just that I have never done it, do you think and consider talking me through over the phone this weekend, since I have the door panel off, I just need help with attaching the new actuator to the original and hooking up the wiring, I wish you will be able to that, please let me know my email is getsw@alltel.net - Thank you very much in advance...

can someone explain the installation in laymans terms, for example instead of using the tech words to explain, can u use a more descriptive word, ie/ instead of using linkage can u use words like, new silver rod that came with the new actuator.


it would really help us non tech lingo guys,


please!!!!!!!!

I'm having the same problem with the actuators on my '99 RX300 and have read Indi's suggestion on how to fix. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined--I'm a bean counter. I am however, in Austin TX, and will offer you the same deal as you did--pay you or a decent meal to fix mine or at least show me how to fix. Houston isn't that far away for me to drive. Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Please contact me at 2weims1box@myway.com. Thanks!