Need help with cleaning the headlight lens on my GS 300 is this possible.

Removing Oxidation or scratches from Vehicle headlights, Brake lights (polycarbonate)
Most vehicles now have a protective, transparent, plastic lens covering the headlights to protect expensive lamps (headlight assemblies range from 500-$700+) from flying stones and road debris. They discolour over time, becoming opaque and cloudy; these lenses can severely restrict the amount of light reaching the road.

The lens has a silicone-based coating applied to its outer surface, some manufacturers apply two different types of coatings to the outer surface of the lens, these coatings are mainly for UVR protection, but are also for impact and abrasion resistance, once the coating (s) fail the lens surface will occlude (clouding or yellowing)

While most of the cloudiness is on the surface, severely discoloured lens cannot be brought back to optical clarity. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as two-years. You could also use a metal polish (Reckitt and Coleman’s Brasso®)


Novus 1 - gently cleans all plastics without scratching, leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static.
Novus 2 - removes fine scratches, haziness, and abrasions from most plastics (exceptional for removing scratches from Plexiglas). Use repeatedly and restore faded and discoloured plastics.
Novus 3 -removes heavy scratches and abrasions from most acrylic surfaces. Contains abrasives, not for use on eyeglasses, polycarbonate, or coated plastics, final finishing also requires the use of Novus 2 http://www.modernplastics.com.

Novus Plastic Polish Kit

Application Methodology:
•Use a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) if this does not remove the oxidation use a plastic polish
•Meguiar’s PlastX contains a microscopic diminishing abrasive, which requires a little pressure when applying it to enable these abrasives to remove the discoloured plastic and expose new plastic. Or Renovo Plastic Cleaner
•Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass.
•Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the window is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water.
•It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic.
•Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied
•Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator
•Place a small dab (about ½-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator.
•Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4)
•Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern.
•Continue polishing until all the polish is gone
•Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel
•Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary
•Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing)
Wet-sanding- some OEM headlights have a coating applied this coating does not respond well to sanding test a small inconspicuous area. If the plastic starts to turn white, do not sand the lenses. Use a plastic polish (see Plastic Polishing)

Not much I can add to that

I wet sanded and polished mine with a medium polish and they look like new. To keep that crystal clear look you need to get a clear bra added on top of it.

Ok, this has nothing to do with the actual cleaning of the lenses, but the before and after pics shown appear to be from two different cars. I've always been a fan of those puzzles where you try to find the differences between two pictures...

I almost agreed with your find... but after some further review, this is the same car.
The top pic is taken more from the side, the bottom, more from the front angle.

Look at the scratch (missing paint) on that corner edge...
It matches on the top and bottom pics, justs looks different due to the different angle.

Also, above that scratch is a spec of missing paint.
The spec looks different due to the angle, but it is there on both pics.

Forget the lights... this car needs a paint job!

Eh, you can keep them clear without a clear bra. Just protect them regularly.

You can without the clear bra but you will need to be polishing them every month. With my fog lights alone it is a cheaper plastic and it oxidizes and yellows in days not months. The headlights usually last a few months. With the clear bra the air does nothing to the finish and it also fills in any imperfections perfectly.

D'oh, you're right. That speck of missing paint looks totally different in the second view. Guess I'm just too much of a skeptic at heart.

Thanks for all the info helped alot.

I like using Meguiars 16 and 17 does the job well and under 10 bucks

I used Plastix a few months ago. Worked great. Have yet to need to reapply.

Meguiar's 18 works well as a light finishing product, but not a scratch remover. Plexus is very similar.

I also use PlasticX frm Meguirs line however, your in San Dieago California and the other people are in Ohio or other not so nice climates which effects the longevity of each application. The biggest hing most people forget is when you wet sand or use and abbrasive your pulling off all the protection and many techs will do that but then put on a a clear coat with a rage so it gives it some longevity.

Novus also receives my vote,, used it on our boat windows and prior cars for years and does a very nice job at cleaning as well as protecting,,

living in Florida for 20 years will make you pay attention to those lenses or a yellow they will go,,

If it is only hazyness, and light pits/scratches, here's what I would do:

1. Tape off all the paint surrounding the lens
2. Wetsand one one direction with 800 grit
3. Wetsand opposite direction with 1000/1200 grit (Wetsanding marks from 800 grit should not be visible)
4. Wetsand opposite direction with 1500grit. (Again, till previous directional marks aren't visible)
5. Compound via rotary.
6. Brand, spanking new lens!

Good luck!
--Gabe

Any method that involves sandpaper or any type of abrasive polish will damage the UV layer on your headlights.
They may look good for a minute but rest assured they will re oxidize and yellow within weeks to months.
You will have to repeat the job. Only now you've got scratches on the lens from the last cleaning.
What works on plastic and paint does not work equally as well on thermoplastic based headlight lens.
The main difference in that a lens is designed to project light not reflect it.
Those time consuming multiple step solutions are ok for a mechanic in a body shop getting paid by the hour.
They are usually the ones that get people to ruin their headlight lens with out dated information.
Unless you have severe damage to your lens it only takes a few seconds to bring them back to clear.
Pittman's Original One Step ALR is designed to remove oxidation from all thermoplastic based lens on contact.
It is a molecular reactive formula that attacks and removes oxidation only.
There is nothing on the market that works faster and as the namd implies,
it is a one step process. Anybody can restore their lens in seconds. No tools buffing goggles or gloves needed.
Before and After Pittman's ALR

Yes it is. I see the suggestions of others promoting the use of sandpaper and abrasive polish. They are very temporary fixes and will cause your lens to end up in worse condition after a few month and in some cases mere weeks.
I have seen the results of enough ill fated attempts to scrub, scrape, sand buff, or polish headlights. Plastic scratch remover will damage the UV layer of your lens and the lens itself, leaving the lens exposed to the yellowing effects of sunlight and re-oxidation.
Oxidation is a natural occurance and there is no one time fix. It will return in time and have to be removed again.
Lens that were once crystal clear become clouded with scratches and buff marks from the cleaning process.
If your lens has not been exposed to abrasive cleaning techniques, you can restore them to like new in a few seconds with Pittman's Pure liquid acrylic lens restorer. It is a non abrasive oxidation remover that requires no tools or buffing and it removes oxidation on contact.
Opaque plastic surfaces will not show scratches and cloud over like a clear lens will. Only a pure liquid acrylic lens restorer designed specifically for headlights (ALR) will safely restore your lens without damageing it. Think about the cost of replacement before you put any type of abrasive cream, polish, rubbing compound on a clear plastic projector lens.
I can guarantee that once you start sanding on your lens it will never be the same. A pure liquid deoxidizer is the best way to go.

Elrukin, do you sell this stuff? The only things you've ever posted on this site are schilling this stuff with links and I keep removing your links.

We don't allow vendors to sell on our site for free.

To everyone else, I've been restoring headlights by polishing for years with no ill effects.

Me too -

Methodology:
•Clean glass to remove dirt, dust or road grime from surfaces (also see note 1)
•Apply clay (Magic Clay®) and lubricant solution (WooliteTM / Water 5:1) onto the glass surface (Do not apply to plastic as dulling may occur.)
•Apply a quarter (coin) size amount of Autoglym Car Glass Polish™ or Iz Einzette Glas Polish to a damp cutting / polishing foam pad (LC Orange or White) attached to a Porter Cable HS rotary polisher set at speed 1200 rpm.
•Heat caused by abrasive polishing can soften and damage glass; foam pad and product used must minimize heat build-up. Since glass is a poor heat conductor any friction heat built up from polishing must be kept to a minimum by using sufficient product and regular misting of both the polishing pad and glass surface with water.
•Apply to half of the surface / windshield, polishing first in an up and down motion then in a left-to-right motion and then repeat on the other side, proceed to other glass surfaces.
•Go over the glass several times in each direction, glass will polish virtually residue free.
•Wipe off any residue, and polish with a clean dry 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth.
•Inspect glass for clarity and smoothness. Repeat if necessary.
•If the glass has PPG Industries Optech clear coating a more aggressive polish may be required

Alternative products / methods:
a) Apply Zaino Z-12 with a damp cotton cloth to cool glass, apply to small sections at a time and allow to completely dry, buffing with a clean dry cotton towel. If there is any smearing or residue left just use Stoner’s Invisible Glass or any good quality glass cleaner to remove excess residue.
Janvil Scratch Remover (JV-326 / Glass Renew JV-325) - http://www.janvil.com/glass_restore.htm
c) Glass Technology Inc - http://www.gtglass.com/scratchremoval.htm

Alternative pads- these 4-inch ‘Metal Polishing Pads’ are made of course, 600 grit nylon (Scotchbrite®) and are designed for hard / rough surfaces like aluminium diamond plate, pitted aluminium, chrome, and glass. http://topoftheline.com

You may have very well been restoring glass for years. I am not talking about glass. there is a difference and its good information to know just what method works best for which problem.
Not every one needs to have their lens resurfaced.
Sandpaper is necessary in extreme cases where there is surface damage.
Sandpaper is not the best solution for oxidation wet or dry.
What would your suggestion be to remove oxidation on a lens has no surface damage?

SW03ES...I guess we all know nothing..and dumb! <unreal> Evertime I read this guys posts it is like an infomercial at 2 AM

I have been restoring PLASTIC headlights for years with abrasive polishes with no ill effects. No cars today have glass headlights.

A headlight with oxidation and no surface damage? I would try a chemical cleaner first and if that didn't work I would reach for an abrasive polish, going from least abrasive to more abrasive dependent of effectiveness.

What are your credentials? How long have you been detailing cars? Do you do it professionally. Remember here you're talking to about 70 years of collective detailing experience and thats just TOGWT, mburnickas, and myself. Maybe you should stop talking to us like we don't know what we're doing.

And I've asked you repeatedly if you sell this stuff and you refuse to come clean. Own up to it and admit you're the manufacturer and stop pretending to be a consumer.

Not that I'm an expert, but I've had good luck with a clay bar first, then Mr. Clean Magic Erasure bars, then some rain-x afterwards. Always served me well, surely helped out on the LS, and seemed to hold it's shine. Or, just spray some sticky substance on them followed by cat nip, then park outside and let the cats scratch the som' beatches spotless.

Ah, the cat technique. I know it well

*this is a joke lol...no good can come of a cat anywhere near your car

Hello:

I have been doing this service for about 4 years now..
Lots of different ways to do the job and too many products out there to count.
To do the job right, you need to get all the dead Yellowed plastic off then.
If the Lens is yellowed, then the UV guard is gone.

Lexus headlight plastic does not have any special UV coatings that wet-sanding will remove. Maybe some other companies do, but Lexus does not. Headlight plastic is approx 1/4 inch thick; there plenty of opportunities to wet-sand without going through... If you did the procedure once a year for 10 years you'd still be fine. Well worth the results in my book.

I've done quite a few headlight retrofits. I know what coating you're speaking of, but it's not present in Lexus. After completing a retro i do a complimentary wet-sand and polish for my customers. I know the headlights with this 'coating'- it's quite hard to sand through. Lexus, not so.

You are correct, Sorry, I forgot... Thanks for the correction.