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Showing most liked content since 06/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 2 likes
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look:
  3. 1 like
    Thanks so much for your reply, CELSI0R. The car was already fixed. The top picture with the "wow" is how the car looks after the repair. Only thing under the hood that needed replaced was the radiator. Everybody that saw this car loved this model and color, but suggested that $5000 would be too high, considering the damage and what need to be fixed. I am thinking of just selling it for $4000. This 14 year old car has $116k miles. It's got leather heated seats in extremely good condition (never had kids or animals in this car). There are wood trims on doors and front area and steering wheel. Rear spoiler. Basically, this car looks perfect, but it's the basic car maintenance repairs that need to be done and I don't want to deal with them at this point since I have the new car. I got the new RC F, which I'm extremely excited about, and I just need this GS off my property ASAP. I haven't posted the ad on Craigslist yet and I already have two guys wanting to buy it this weekend. I think I'll have them go through bidding war amongst each other. 🤣
  4. 1 like
    In this car the circuit opening relay is mounted next the ecu behind the glove box. Opened it up and realised it was not engaging. I engaged it manually and finally got power to the FP relay. Now to solve the hunting idle.
  5. 1 like
    Thanks Celsi0r Ok . So another day done. New fuel pump and filter installed as the old one literally looked 25 years old..Replaced the circuit open relay and viola. She sprang to life. SOunds good, runs good..A little fumey but thats to be expected for something that has sat for so long. This celsior only has 95000 kms on the clock. I let it idle for a while and she began to hunt ever so slightly. So there are still some issues here. I will clean the iacv and throttle body/ Ill see whats up soon enough.
  6. 1 like
    Hmm, you sure it was coolant and not carb cleaner? Anyway, for me that 2 screw were the hardest ones to take out for the first time. The entire process probably closed to the amount of time you put in. After that it got easier. The screw material is software so it not careful, it could get damaged easily if too much force or the wrong tool is used. Not really sure what the purpose of that ring is, it doesn't look like a gasket to me. I guess if your car idles properly and car runs smooth, probably not a concern.
  7. 1 like
    I just had the same type of issue with our 2001 LS430, i needed to replace the wiring harness for the knock sensors also as there were signs of dry rot and wiring exposed causing additional electrical current draw. Hope that it may help your problem.
  8. 1 like
    Just dropped my 2008 RX 400H of at the dealer for soggy headlight replacement. The service writer didn't believe it was covered so he looked it up. It's still covered under the "warranty enhancement program". It's 9 years from the first day it was put in service. That covers me and hopefully some others who haven't looked at this thread in a long time. Good luck!
  9. 1 like
    Anyone know best way to repair 2002 Lexus ES300 Rear Mark Levinson speaker - Heard Simply Speakers has a repair foam kit. Just wondering how easy is it to remove original speaker and install this kit?
  10. 1 like
    Lexus has received new J D Power awards, but is now struggling to get back its former top ratings. Industry followers say it's not that Lexus quality has slipped, its that the other car makers are getting a whole lot better. Read the article below. Paul
  11. 1 like
    I'm happy to be a member on this site. Looks like a great forum here with usefull tips. I drive a 2014 Lexus IS 300h. Thanks for letting me join. christian
  12. 1 like
    Hi John and welcome! We have a 2016 RX and have about 6500 miles on it. We love the crossover size and the interior is way cool. Even the mpg is not bad. On interstate driving we've gotten close to 30 mpg. I've had 3. ES350's and you defiantly do not get the smooth and quiiiet ride of the ES. I have found that over time, I have adjusted to the bumps and stiffer suspension. By the way, the RX350 is the best selling car that Lexus product.
  13. 1 like
    Hi folks. I ran across this the other day and thought you would enjoy reading more good news about your decision to buy a Lexus.
  14. 1 like
    QqI already replaced the battery that was the first thing i did. I found out if i get the battery light on, i can turn off the car and start it up again it goes away and doesnt come back untill i restart the car. The ac actually has nothing to do with it either that just happened to do it as i used the ac. I have a video of what its doing ill try to post it.
  15. 1 like
    This past weekend, I changed some suspension components. My car is a 1999 LS400. I changed out the shocks (utilizing 'quick struts'), upper control arms, strut bars, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. I also bought outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints; however, I did not install those because (frankly) I was really tired by the time I had installed everything else. I'll get to them later. The current lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends were replaced about 45k miles ago, so they shouldn't be terribly bad. The boots on both are in tact. Oh yes... Almost forgot, I got new pads, rotors, and gave it fresh brake fluid (which it desperately needed). Braking is significantly improved, and with the new shocks up front, it doesn't dive nearly as much as it used to. For the strut rods, I used Toyota OEM. I intended on getting just the bushings; however, South Atlanta Lexus stated the bushings were discontinued, so I had to spend a little more for the full bars. For the sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, and upper control arm, I bought Moog components. Fingers are crossed as to how long they last, but the price differential between OEM and Moog was too much for me to pass up, especially the upper control arms. All the components fit perfectly, as the OEM did. Just a note on the shocks. They work well, much better than the OEM units that were on there (with 195k miles). I went with Unity Shocks, where I purchased the whole assembly, getting new shock mounts, rubber bushings, spring, and the shock itself. It comes assembled, ready to install. You will want to make sure the center nut is on tight. One of mine was a little loose. I'm also waiting to see what the company does regarding the rear struts. They sent me struts that don't fit inside the wheel well without taking the control arm out. The difference between the ride at the front and the ride at the rear is noticeable now, and I'm looking forward to changing out the rear struts as soon as possible. Purists will deride the fact that I did not use KYB shocks; however, I didn't have spring compressors, and I wanted new shock mounts. If the shocks last 40,000 miles, I will be happy. I did run into a snag that I wanted to make sure people were aware of. When you install new strut bars at the front, make DOUBLY sure that the camber bolt plates are snug between the tabs. I failed to make sure, and then put 120 some odd pound feet of torque on the nut, which then slowly spun the bolt, mashing the tabs flat. Thus, I can't get an alignment on my front passenger side now. I have an appointment to get this fixed, but I mention this just as a caution to others. I was tired, and ready to be done with the project, especially spending loads of time trying to get the incorrect rear shocks installed (insert face palm slap...). Interestingly, the alignment shop said the alignment isn't that far off in spite of my mistake, so that's good. Now - I need to fix what I think is an exhaust leak. My LS is sounding a bit "sporty".
  16. 1 like
    I bought new fan/controller combo for 150.00 including shipping. (actually was change) I installed this last night and problem solved. I would like to add I now have 2 extra fans that are fine. I could not find the controller alone. If anyone needs a fan, right of left, let me know. I would let you have them for the cost of shipping. The multi-meter check was what told me what the issue was. 12V gong in and less than 12V coming out.
  17. 1 like
    Hi Tim and Welcome! Year after year, Lexus owners have discussed the whys and wherefores are the best fuel grades for their model Lexus. In addition, as updated models come out, Lexus has changed some engines to run on different octane blends. Around 2010 several engines were modified to accept 87 octane to 91 octane as well. In my 2010 ES350 it was designed to use 87 or 91 octane. Given this ongoing puzzle of fuel choices I recommend using what the Owners Manual recommends. This helps protect you from any problems that could come from a fuel choice and will give you the best engine performance. Paul
  18. 1 like
    Well, pkyanko, if it is any comfort, I am an idiot too. So don't feel like you are alone. I just pretend to know and so far, it has worked. An engine code 31 for your year LS400 means that the air flow sensor is not behaving correctly as far as the computer can tell. The VAF stands for Vane Air Flow. Most people call it a MAF (Mass Air Flow) which it is in later models. The VAF works by the incoming air moving a vane which is hooked up, mechanically, to a sensor which feeds the computer. I would start by examining the connector to the VAF. As cars age, connectors become highly suspect as corrosion sets in. There are cleaners, such as CRC contact cleaner, made to clean up connector terminals and pins. There is also the possibility that the pin has vibrated lose from the VAF circuit board inside. That happened to my 92 ES300 but I able to take the air flow module apart and resolder the connections. If cleaning and reseating the connector does not help, I would check the resistance of the air flow sensor throughout its range of positions. You will need to remove the air flow unit and will need an ohmmeter to make the measurement. You *may* need to buy a new or rebuilt air flow unit if yours proves defective. They are not cheap (read: hundreds of $$$). Here is some additional reading material so you can brush up on how the unit works -> http://www.autoshop1...m/forms/h34.pdf
  19. 1 like
    Now days, I believe that is called "precision guided all organic ordinance"! lol Your wife is single handedly accounting for the accelerated extinction of several non-threatened species. Whoa to those who reap carnage with a Japanese luxury car while sipping their latte' and listening to the stock reports. (My wife had a pet Deer "Bambi" when she was a child. We hit and kiiled a Deer last year and she was sure it was it's cousin.LOL...)
  20. 1 like
    Bambi might not have been the culprit that took out the ambient temp sensor as my wife has over the almost 10 years we have had this car had up close and personal contact with not only the deer (which ran off after the incident) but also: a fox, a goose, a racoon, and several small birds ( all fatalities )resulting in trips each time to the body shop to replace plastic front end parts broken by the impacts. thinking on this and being reminded of the history of carnage with this this car, it now seems more likely to me that the damage was done by one of the smaller victims which could have better penetrated the rather protected location of the sensor...a bird going through that lower grill at 65 mph could have done it....precision bombing in effect.
  21. 1 like
    Bob, thanks so much! This worked like a charm. I got a glue gun from Michaels arts & crafts and went to work. I played music with bass so I could see the tear. I could not see it by a visual inspection at first. I have pictures and a quicktime movie of the process if anyone wants me to email them. Now my sub is fixed and sounds great! The repair took me about 20 minutes and works.