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Showing most liked content since 03/02/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    I "think" that the VAIS SL3B will provide A2DP audio streaming on your 2005 SC430: http://www.vaistech.com/site/sl3b.php There may be other companies that have products that will work but VAIS has been around time and their products were commonly offered by Lexus dealers before Lexus vehicles came with similar interfaces from the factory. I suggest that you contact VAIS and inquire before you buy. They may have other products that would be more appropriate for you.
  2. 1 like
    I have a 90 LS400, The speedometer stopped working last week, I heard a noise a type of a click sound coming from the drivers door side which sounded like a side mirror when they get stuck. the gauge is a dial style , how do you repair or replace the cable if its broken and how do you get in behind the dash. I know the car has a few speed sensors do they fail and could they create the problem, or is it most likley the cable.
  3. 1 like
    In my personal experience of with cars built in the 90's on up as well as friends and family who have worked on cars for a long time. In line fuel filters very rarely needs replaced. I haven't looked into Toyota when it comes to this but with Honda's, Mitsubishi, bmw, and a few others I've dealt with consider those good for the "life" of the car. About 150k to 200k. Mine hasn't hit 130k yet My tank was very clean and the in tank pre filter off the pump was very clean. Fuel pressure with the old pump was at oem spec. I'll look into Toyotas recommendations. I know all are built different.
  4. 1 like
    All fixed! They did an awesome job on the paint match! The only thing they painted was the bumper and they managed to match the Crystal White Pearl Tricoat PERFECTLY: I really thought they were going to have to blend it in. They did a color match. Their paint guy has been mixing paint and painting cars for 33 years. He did an outstanding job.
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    I have a shop press, the one thing important in pressing out a bearing or inserting is to only apply pressure on the outside bearing surface. The inner bearing (shaft) side would put undo stress on the bearing and damage it. your first socket which would apply pressure on the outside is the correct pressure point.
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    Ben I too live in a cold climate and there are too many governing factors that could result in a dead battery so most just replace them to a larger newer battery and move on. I wanted to figure out what was the cause, weak battery or was there a drain on the system from something. I charged the battery and then put a amp meter on between the ground wire and the battery to see if there was a drain and there was. I didn't know what was acceptable so I just hunted for the largest one. I then started pulling fuses one by one until the drain of almost two amps changed and when I pulled the 12v outlet fuse the drain dropped to under a 1/2 amp. I remembered plugging in an adaptor that converted cig plug to usb outlet !! so when i unplugged it the 1.5amp drain was gone. Who knew an adaptor that went from 12v to 5v drew any never mind so much power, even when not being used. Most people don't want to put in the effort to track it down but you can do the same test to try and isolate the drain or get a battery maintainer or drive it more. :)
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    wow that is cool where did you get that
  11. 1 like
    Hello fellow Lexus owners, I recently purchased a 1992 Lexus LS400, it has the nakamichi sound system but 3/4 of the speakers are shot, the head unit is dead, the Subwoofer still works great and the 5 disk CD changer is still functional. I purchased this car for $1000 (USD), it has 86K miles on it, was garage kept, 1 owner verified, a rare find. I am calling this "Project Revolution" as its going through a technological revolution. Here is what I am doing... Body: 1. NO BODY KITS 2. NO RIMS (unless the 16 inch stock Lexus chrome rims will fit from a 1993 Lexus LS400) 3. NO Repaint, just minor repair work on some scuffed areas 4. Professional detailing (completed, looks great BTW) Exterior Lighting: 1. Brake, Stop, Reverse, Turn, & Corner light will all be incandescent bulbs, Crystal Vision Ultra's, this is to keep that pesky light out error from lighting up on my display 2. Parking, & License Plate lights replaced with Sylvania ZEVO LED's (completed) 3. Fog lights - permanent mod (smashing the yellow glass) and replacing with Hella Extreme White XB bulbs (completed) 4. Headlights - currently using PIAA Extreme White 9004 bulbs (yes I paid $80, and they are brighter & whiter than stock), considering an LED headlight upgrade, possibly GTR Gen 3 Interior Lighting: 1. Footwell lights replaced with LED's (on backorder) 2. Glovebox replaced with LED (on backorder) 3. Dome light replaced with ZEVO LED (completed) 4. Personal/Map lights replaced with LED's (on backorder) 5. Door lights replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed) 6. Trunk Light replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed) Interior Modifications: 1. Send out instrument cluster to Tanin Auto Electronix for diagnostic and LED upgrade (also replace Odometer as it just recently stopped working, and yes I have been tracking the miles) 2. Send out A/C controls to Tanin Auto Electronix for repair and LED upgrade (completed, LED upgrade: LCD - Cool White, Button Backlighting - Bright White, Indicator LED - OEM Green) 3. Replace stock entertainment system (stereo)..... Head Unit/Reciever - Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 Front Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1330C (5 1/4") component speakers /w crossover Rear Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1302R (5 1/4") coaxial speakers Subwoofer - Stock Pioneer 8" subwoofer (If I were to replace it, I would go with a Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" Low Profile Subwoofer, they are around $70) Amplifier - undecided, not sure if I need one Wiring - High Quality 12 gauge wiring 4. Recondition or reupholster the leather as required (currently looks like it just needs reconditioning) Performance Mods: 1. Detail the engine bay (completed, took me 5 hours by hand) 2. Replace Air Filter with K&N & clean IAC & Throttle Body 3. Full Synthetic Valvoline 5W-30 oil with a Bosch Premium filter (completed) 4. Flush & replace Power Steering, Brake, and Transmission fluids with Full Synthetic fluids (completed) 5. Replace brake pads & inspect rotors & calipers (replace/re tune if needed) 6. POSSIBLY replace rotors & calipers with StopTech slotted and drilled kit (not sure if its really needed) 7. Replace cap, rotor, ignition coil & plug wires with OEM+ quality cap, rotor, coil & wires 8. Replace Spark Plugs with NGK Iridium IX 9. Install strut tower braces for less body roll 10. Replace current Michelin A/S Primacy MXV4 tires with Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring tires 11. Flush & replace engine coolant (completed) 12. Professional intake and fuel cleaning service Here are my questions: 1. Do I need an amplifier for my sound setup, and what do you think about the Pioneer D line of speakers. Keep in mind I am going for SQ and will be using the 13 band EQ and DTA in the receiver to ensure sound quality. I am NOT going for bass overdrive or loudness, just quality lows from the sub, and quality mids & highs from the speakers. 2. Is it possible to use the 1993-1995 LS400 16 inch rims on my 1992 LS400 or is it a different pattern? 3. I have heard some complain about the brakes on the 1st generation LS400's, is this something I should be concerned about or is it just nitpicking? 4. LED Headlights, whats your take on it, and I am not talking about the $90 Ebay/Amazon Chinese knockoff ones. If I am replacing these it will be with a $150+ set using Philips LumiLEDS. Thanks for taking the time to read this, I look forward to hearing back from you regarding this project.
  12. 1 like
    If you're draining the transmission from its oil pan, one gallon or so of ATF will fill it back up. Be sure to use only fluid that meets T-IV/3309 specification and follow the right procedure to check it. Paul
  13. 1 like
    My nephew has done 5 LS starter jobs (2 were mine + 3 friends) he charged 400. and BYOS.... 4 to 5 hours each without hurrying .. ps never had a comeback. photos was my 99 in 2010.. still going strong.
  14. 1 like
    I can confirm 1993-2000 LS 400 rims all fit on the 1990-1992 LS. However, since they are 16 inch, the tires you will need to buy to get the same overall circumference as the originals will cost more. The tire size for 1993-2000 LS 400 models have a larger circumference overall, leading to inaccurate speed readings on 1990-1992 models. Changing the 1st gen brakes are more or less nitpicking. 1993-1994 have larger rotors and calipers, which makes braking stronger (this means you will need to change to 16" rims). Although, the dual piston calipers fitted on 1991-1992 models are very good. 1990 models have single piston calipers. Looking forward to seeing and reading about these updates!
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    I recall all too well when we bought our RX400h in April of 2005, all our friends and acquaintances who thought hybrids would never "pay back" their extra cost and that they were so complicated that repairs would send the owners to the poor house. As a moderator in this forum for many years, I can say without a doubt that Toyota/Lexus hybrids proved the naysayers wrong, over and over again. A hybrid may not be for everyone but for those who live in densely populated areas, hybrids can make perfect sense. Congrats, jabowsi for helping to show the world just how dependable these vehicles are.
  16. 1 like
    I am almost there, at 197k miles...on my RX400h, just changed timing belt, water pump, and idlers.....
  17. 1 like
    Hi...it could be the wiring loom faulty or interference from ignition to the knock sensor (move the wiring away from other leads on the engine)
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    Hey Ralph, welcome to the LOC! Be sure to check out the RX forum. I love our 2016. They just keep getting better. Paul
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    Many of you may not remember me. It's been a LONG time. I first joined here back in 2004? I think? I had a 1990 ES250. That was some years ago. I had a blast with that car. Restoring it, going to meets, it was so smooth to drive. I loved it. Then, one day in 2005, I totalled it in a collision in Fort Worth TX. Shortly after that I joined the army. I still stuck around the forums, but couldn't get back in a Lexus for awhile due to monetary constraints, deployments to combat, and getting married. Fast forward to January 2014. I am Medically retiring from the US Army after 8.5 years of honorable service. I got hurt on my 3rd combat tour (IED Strike, broke L1-L5, T11, and T12, shattered my right hip, broke 3 ribs on my right side and broke my right shoulder) and after many months of rehabilitation I was retired. I returned home to Texas, and I was given a home by a wonderful organization called Military Warrior's Support Foundation. They buy, renovate and donate homes to Combat-Wounded Veterans and Gold-Star Families. Shortly after that, my wife left me. There were many reasons for that I wont get into here, but both of us were at fault, and now both of us are better off. I have since remarried and I am happier than I have ever been. And now, I am in school, completely retired, but my degree has always been a dream of mine so I am going to pursue it, even though I can't ever work again due to my issues. My Bachelor's of Applied Arts and Science in Organizational Leadership and Management is just around the corner! In my stable, I currently have a 2015 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4: My new wife has a 2014 Honda Civic EX: I recently acquired a 1964 Chevrolet Biscayne for $300 I am going to restore. It has 20,452 original miles and is all #'s matching. I found it in a barn in Gainesville TX: But, the real reason I am here...is because I finally, after nearly 15 years...have come back to my roots. We are now the proud owners of a Crystal White Tri-Coat 2002 Lexus ES300. One owner, clean carfax, all services performed on-time at Sewell Lexus-Fort Worth. Price paid was $4800+TTL ($5500 OTD): ^the night we brought her home, before I cleaned the headlights. ^That gorgeous white pearl paint was nearly flawless! ^as was the interior! ^151,260 miles when we bought it. We had to drive 3 hours to get it! ^It had new Michelins on it! ^Full service history with a timing belt/water pump/tensioner done at 89,557 miles! ^has all the keys and books, even the window sticker! ^After I polished the headlamps ^got a 5% strip on the windshield and 5% tint on the moonroof. Ever since my Traumatic Brain Injury in the IED strike my eyes are really photosensitive. ^LED Reverse Lamps and Plate Lamps ^LED Puddles ^LED Dome Light ^Replacement HID bulbs. The originals were beginning to show their age, they were almost a pinkish color? So I replaced them with some OEM type bulbs from XenonDepot.com. I also upgraded the Fogs to 55w 3000k HID, and put 5500k Philips LED's in the upper right corner of the headlamps. ^they really dont glare that bad, my phone just took a bad pic
  20. 1 like
    Based on your description it's impossible to make any kind of diagnosis with any certainty. However, it appears that at this point you are just throwing parts and money at the problem. I think it's time to find a good independent Toyota/Lexus shop that will have the proper diagnostic equipment to give you an informed determination of what the problem is. It'll cost a lot less than coil packs and valve timing solenoids. Good luck.
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    Mine with ML (2011 IS350 F) (Oz model) 2 small holes either side of clock panel under GPS. Insert the 2 screwdriver looking pin tools from the boot tool kit and press in to release spring clips and work until panel pops out. Go to info button on side of GPS, maps, and there will be an eject button. Remove Navi DVD. Replace with newer version. Wait until it loads up. Test. Then replace clock panel. I got my Oz DVD from this site. https://www.gpspower.net/toyota-lexus.html
  22. 1 like
    Yeah so I went out for a drive at lunch for 15 minutes, brakes worked perfectly fine, so I guess maybe its either an intermittent blocked hose, or a sticky caliper, I'm now leaning towards sticky caliper I guess. Don't have $150 to spend on a diagnostic, and then still have to pay to fix it. I'd rather shotgun it at this point since hoses are $12 bucks and caliper rebuild kits are $6. I assume if it was the brake hose it would be doing it all the time, and I've never read online about a brake hose collapsing and doing the complete opposite of a caliper piston that's always active. I know these cars have master cylinder issues but I fail to see how it could only effect one brake but who knows.
  23. 1 like
    Hey Administrators, Josh is not just a regular Member, he is our Honored Army guy...
  24. 1 like
    Oh Josh, I have wondered about you for a couple of years, Thank God you are well. Love your continued passion for these rolling pieces of Steel....Like your new wheels and look forward to your post on the Chevrolet Biscayne. Hey it is just a sister to your family of cars....May your day be great.
  25. 1 like
    Thanks bud! I am a retired CE as well! Was also a Diesel Mechanic/Heavy Equipment Recovery Operator (HERO). The Biscayne is a relic. No other word for it. I can't get it to turn over. We are in the very beginnings of the restoration. Its out back under a cover, I don't even have a plan for it just yet. Very rare. There are probably less than a hundred original examples left in the world, and probably less than 10 of them are bare bones like mine (no power brakes, no AC, 3 on the tree, inline 6, AM radio.) On the one hand I want to keep her original, but on the other hand, a big block and a turbo-400 would make her much more streetable.
  26. 1 like
    Yes, pour trans fluid directly into the dipstick pipe, whatever its name is.
  27. 1 like
    Sign up for a 1 day account and download the whole repair manual. It only costs $15 for the day.
  28. 1 like
    For both January and February Lexus US sales were dismal. For all models combined, sales were -20% lower than 2016. Lexus explained that very low inventories in the USA left not enough product to meet demand. Have any of you have had an experience like this when buying your Lexus? https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/03/01/february-2017-sales-report/ Paul
  29. 1 like
    It's been around a week since the detail, but I have been using detail spray to keep it looking good. I personally cleaned the engine bay by hand.
  30. 1 like
    If the vibration is when the vehicle is driving along then it could be a damaged/worn Constant Velocity Joint or bent driveshaft. Other areas it could be are Wheel Bearing or even a lump in one of the tyres (jack up each corner so the wheel is off just off the ground and spin the wheel slowly while looking between the ground and the tread area to see if there is any deviation within the clearance indicating a deformed tyre or bulge in the tread area. Also check the sidewalls for damage) If the vibration occurs when braking then the rotors are probably warped....easily checked with a Dial Test Indicator. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor
  31. 1 like
    Hi All, I drove to a small town outside of Winston Salem, NC, about a 250 mile drive from my home in Virginia with my Son In Law to take a look at the 1995 Diamond White Pearl SC400, which appears to an options free car (no TRAC, heated seats, or sunroof), except the gold badging and Dealer installed gold laced wheels. The car was pretty much as described by the seller, with a blown speaker(s) in rear, nonworking passenger window, and inoperative side mirror adjust. There was some wear on the driver seat bolster from the paint rubbing off. I am not sure if I will do anything at this point. Finally, the trunk struts were toast. The car, which has only 66K miles, had some vibration, which seems to be from flat spotting from sitting, which smoothed out on the drive home. The seller said something about hesitation when accelerating, but it seems the more the car is driven, the better is seems to run. I might try a couple of bottles of Techron and clean the throttle body butterfly. All of the fluids appeared to be fresh except the transmission, so I plan to change the filter and add a couple of quarts, and make it part of a 30K mile service. My son in law has already ordered the mirror ECU and trunk struts, and I need to troubleshoot the passenger window before buying parts to fix something that isn't broken while attempting to fix a problem. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic of the master switch? Before I pull the door card, I want to jump the harness to see if I can get the passenger window to respond. With 2 things not working on the panel, could both problems be the switch? I need to get the title, registration, as well as the car inspected. Virginia requires a front place, while NC and FL, where the car originated, only requires the rear one. I will post some photos of the car once I get it cleaned up.
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    I have a 2015 ES 350. Following is for car with nav system. From the play screen, cycle through the crossed arrows (random play) function, until it is unchecked (no blue highlight next to it), now, once your system has indexed the USB (which may take a while, depending on how much music you have!), select 'Browse'. From the resulting screen you can select tabs for Folders, Artists or Albums. Select Folders. You can then scroll to which ever you like. Then you are given a track list for that folder. Select the track you want to start with. With now other changes your system should now play all tracks from that point on in sequence, changing folders as each is finished. This should allow you to do what you ask in your last paragraph.
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    On my 5 month new to me (64K miles) 90 LS400 From Rock i picked up ADVICS AD0476 and ADVICS AD0488. I've got about 3K miles on them. Feel fine to me. I drive calm but like to toss the car when the road is open. I don't know about how aggressive the grab needs to be when i read through all the different forms about brake upgrades. My winter rims don't show any brake dust compared to what was on the car and i have slotted rear rotors. And they are quiet however, i have hardly any milage on them. Prior, I took it in to lexus when i bought it just to update the records and go over its service history. They wanted $1400 for new brakes job front and rear. They said what was on the car was not factory pads. I thought i read the ADVICS were factory. But im new to the game so i could be wrong. I recommend the Brembo disc that they have on clearance. 15 dollars a rotor for brembo is crazy. I order a second set on my next order just to have on the shelf. OOPS saw i had drifted from the 90-92 thread.
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    Recently bought 2005 LX470, wife complained of water drop while driving and a/c on. Replaced a/c filter and cleared a/c drain.
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    Hi All, I wasn't able to find a definitive guide to choosing a cargo box for my 2010 RX450h on the web, so I thought I'd outline what works for the RX350 and RX450h 2010-2012 body styles and possibly the 2013-2015 models as well (tbv by someone with that model car). Today, I took my car to a rack store and we tried several different models and the Thule 628 Force L fit and looked the best. If you have the standard roof bars installed, you have to remove a small rubber (EPDM) bulb seal that is installed forward of the cross bars to protect the point where the front to back rails intersect with the roof supports and move the crossbars all the way forward. After removing the seal, reinstall it tightly against the back of the crossbars. Do the same on the rear crossbar and move it all the way to the back. After you've done that, you'll have exactly 48-1/4" of clearance from the FRONT EDGE of the FRONT CROSSBAR to the REAR HATCH DOOR CREASE. This is the critical dimension to determine which boxes you can fit on your vehicle. Note that the fin on the back hatch rotates to stand 90 degrees vertical, meaning straight up, so cases with angled back ends will not help clearance. Based on the following documents linked on 6-Jul-2016, the following boxes will fit your RX model from 2010-2012 and possibly your 2013-2015 (someone please verify): Thule Hatch Clearance PDF: https://cdn3.static-tgdp.com/assetloader.axd?pimid=1680039&id=506801&brand=Thule&market=CA Model Number Model Name Volume Recommended? 634 Sonic M 13 cu. ft / 368 L 50/50 - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 45 reviews), looks small / short on roof 628* Force L 16 cu. ft / 453 L YES! - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 223 reviews), fits roof line perfectly 624 Force M 13 cu. ft / 368 L 50/50 - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 223 reviews), looks small / short on roof 615 Pulse L 16 cu. ft / 453 L YES! - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 83 reviews), fits roof line perfectly 615 Pulse M 14 cu. ft / 396 L YES! - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 83 reviews), looks ok on roof, but not perfect 682 Sidekick 8 cu. ft / 227 L NO - you can afford a Lexus, then you can afford one of the boxes above. Yakima Hatch Clearance PDF: https://yakweb-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/HatchClearance.pdf Model Name Volume Recommended? Showcase 15 15 cu. ft / 425 L Maybe - very new box, only 1 review on Amazon.com, fits roof well Rocketbox Pro 12 12 cu. ft / 340 L Maybe - a bit small and reviews are mixed (4 on Amazon.com from 66 reviews), looks ok on roof but not perfect Rocketbox Pro 11 11 cu. ft / 312 L Yes for skies up to 210cm / 82.5" - reviews are (4.5 on Amazon.com from 29 reviews), looks good on roof Rocketbox Pro 14 14 cu. ft / 396 L YES! - very high ratings and reliability (4.5 on Amazon.com from 99 reviews), close to perfect roof line fit I hope this will act as a guide for all to follow. Please add to this as you see fit. Thanks, -chad HatchClearance.pdf Hatch_Clearance (1).pdf
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    DEEP WOODS OFF. or any bug spray with DEET in it. Polishes it up like a charm Old headlights will look like new
  37. 1 like
    My gearshift lights are out, and the climate/radio back lighting go out when I turn on the head lights. The clock back light stays on, but dims when the head lights are turned on. Is this just the gear shift bulb burned out or something else? If the bulb, what is best way to replace it. Thanks for any help.
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    I performed this fix and now have no power above the clock. The AC/Heat doesn't work, nor does the display. Has anyone had this same issue or would you have any suggestions? I have checked all the connections numerous times and I have also checked my fuses. Any advice would be appreciated.
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    Here's a shortcut I use to replace the lightbulb, at least on my 1992 LS400. Basically, instead of removing the entire assembly, you access the bulb while the assembly is still in place. Step 1: After pulling away the sidelight assembly, look inside. You will see the gray electrical connection and black ring that locks the light bulb. Step 2: Looking down on the top of headlight assembly frame, you will see a rubber gromet, about 1" in diameter. Remove it. Will a light, you should see the top of the gray electrical connection. Step 3: Remove the gray electrical connection. You can do this either through the opening where the sidelight was pulled out, or from the 'access' hold described above. I prefer to use a long flat head screw driver from the side. Step 4: Reach in through the opening and untwist the black ring, and remove the bulb. (Tight fit, but it will come out. The left hand works best for the passenger side, and your right hand works best on the driver's side.) Step 5: Put black ring around new bulb and insert back into hole. (I use latex gloves to avoid getting body oil on the bulb.) Step 6: Put gray electrial connection on. Step 7: Test. (If something has gone wrong, better to know now rather than after everything is reassembled.) Step 8: Reinstall sidelight assemby.
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    I have tried a few brands of HID bulbs, and i can tell you there is a HUGE difference between the cheap ones and the expensive ones. The cheap bulbs aren't built with the same quality, and don't emit as much light output. They also don't last very long. Many have over-heating issues which can also ruin a headlight if they were to explode or melt the housings. When you increase the kelvin rating on a bulb, you lose output intensity (brightness). Factory HID bulbs are rated at 4300k and they emit the most light out of all the HID bulbs out there. 6000k bulbs produce more of a violet/white color but don't emit as many lumens of output as the 4300k bulbs. The factory Philips 4300k bulbs emit 3200 lumens while the Philips 6000k bulbs only emit 2400 lumens. For comparison, the standard 9005 halogen bulb emits 1700 lumens. When you start getting into cheap HID bulbs, 6000k will bring you into the 1000 lumen range. Your color will be great, but you won't be able to see as much. The Philips 6000k Ultinon bulbs are the BRIGHTEST 6000k in production. And even still, the decrease in intensity is noticeable when driving adjacent to a car with the factory 4300k. And by DRL, i mean "daytime running lights" which is a feature on most Lexus'. During the day, the high beam bulbs are given about half their max voltage (~6V) so they light up (only slightly) so oncoming drivers can see your car more clearly. Then, at night they can be given max voltage (~12V) when you put them in high beam mode. So, if you were to replace the high beam bulbs with another brand, in DRL mode, the color output isn't going to change. At low voltage, NO replacement bulb can produce a white light. Halogen bulbs don't work like that... At low voltage their kelvin readings are very low, as the filaments are merely heating up, like a hot coal. There are a few bulbs that produce a higher kelvin reading at max voltage, but at low voltage they will produce that "rainbow effect" i mentioned before. This means that a different spots inside the bulb, the temperature will be hotter than others, so different spots in the bulb will emit a different color. The core may be orange, the base may be blue, etc etc. Therefore, while ON, the headlight reflector will be composed of many different colors (based on wherever on the bulb it's focal point is) looking like a rainbow. It just doesn't look good... The HIR bulbs emit the same color as the factory halogen bulbs, but when fully warmed up, are MUCH brighter. I have the HIR bulbs in my 400h right now as my DRL/high beams. I had them in my Rx300 as well, and transferred them to this car last year. They're a few years old and they still work perfectly. Their quality is excellent. I don't believe there's a single after-market 9005 series bulb that emits light that's even slightly close to the color of an HID bulb without sacrificing copious amounts of light output. There are halogen bulbs with tinted coatings on the glass which alter the color, but they have a HORRIBLE rainbow effect and the intensity will suffer. The longevity will also suffer with any after-market bulb that costs less than the factory pair. Also beware of the labels on many aftermarket bulbs, they may list them at a certain kelvin scale and claim they produce so many lumens, but they're most likely not correct. these companies aren't forced to follow the same standards that OEM bulb manufacturers do. I've been an active member on hidplanet.com for a few years, and have learned a lot about this stuff. I haven't heard of a single halogen bulb that can produce a color similar to the HID bulbs... :( But, you can try a few different pairs and see if you like any of them. If you're OK with sacrificing brightness, you may find a pair that works for you. But, the only time you'll notice the color difference is when you have your high beams on, and cosmetically I don't think it would be worth the trouble. In high beam mode you will want more brightness than looks... On my headlight retrofits i've tried to avoid the "angel eyes" as i don't really care for them... at least not on a Lexus. I try to keep the "OEM" look and such mods would jeopardize the look. <_< I should also add, you may need to remove the windshield washer fluid funnel to gain access to the back of the passenger side headlight. Just pull it UP out of its clip, and push it aside. I remeber it getting in the way...
  41. 1 like
    if i speak for myself..i like to being unique.thats why people changeing their wheels.
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  43. 1 like
    Ron- the B1S1 is on the rear exhaust manifold. You have to get to it from underneath, meaning, unless you have a lift, you'll have to jack the car up. You will readily see it facing to the passengers side up high where it's not easy to get to. You're east coast so you may have a problem with rust. I would definitely use whatever rust buster you feel is most effective and the longest box wrench you can get your hands on. The hardest part is getting the plug unplugged, it takes 2 hands and you can only get 1 up there. I would suggest getting help- one person on top to hold the wiring loom taunt and the other on the bottom to pull on the plug. Otherwise you'll go nuts trying to do it alone. You may need to try to wedge something small in the locking tab on the plug so you are able to pull with 1 hand while someone holds from the top with 1 hand (neither of you can get 2 hands in there) I also suggest getting the sensor online where you can buy it for around $150. That's for original eq. Denso, the only thing I would recommend. I just noticed you have an ES rather than RX. Don't know how much different that will be, have to jack it up and see. That code is only the heater, so it's not urgent, won't hurt anything, may only run faintly rougher when cold.
  44. 1 like
    This is my first time here. I also had a problem with my ES300 with my spare key stuck in the ignition. I followed your advise but also added oil lubrication and the key eventually got loose and came off. I did a soft tap, oiled the cylinder, wiggled the keys and repeated this process until it got loose. I'd like to help this forum also by adding some tricks I've learned. If you used the spare key and it got stuck, and the car won't start, take the primary key (the one with the remote), put it close against the ignition key and start the car. Apparently, Lexus keys have security device that will only allow the primary keys to start the car. Hope this could help someone.
  45. 1 like
    I just had this same problem in my wife's '99 RX300. It happened while we were out on vacation and one of the kids needed to borrow the car. Six different people tried to start the car but none were able. I got home today and talked first to the Lexus dealer(tow is 65 miles and $800 and maybe just maybe it would be fixed) then I talked to the local Toyota dealer (maybe we can do it but no guarentee but you will have to pay anyway) then I looked on this website and saw the humor reply about taking a hammer and screwdriver to it......Well guess what three taps with a hammer loosened up the spring loaded "fingers" that fit into the side of the key and it now works perfectly. I have since talked to a locksmith and he says that would be what he would try first as they are know to get a bit gummed up in there. Hope this helps someone. Thanks, Bill
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    turn the wheel while turning the key