Brake Fluid Flush Due At 30,000 Miles, ...anyone have theirs done yet? Options

[silvercorvette]

Also if you do a lot of hard braking, [racing on the track or long descents down high steep mountain roads] the fluid temp can get very high, the water can boil and turn to steam. When that happens you can lose most if not all of the ability to brake.

Hugh? Brake fluid turn to steam? Brake fluid is oil ... so steam

I never said that, go back and read my first post which is post #2. I said fluid is hygroscopic, therefore if it is hygroscopic it contains`water, water will turn to steam when heated

[JENunnez]

Hygroscopic does not mean it contains water, it means it can easily absorb moisture. Brake fluid can not contain any moisture what so ever because that is what will degenerate your brake system. Now in racing and repeatedly hard braking when the brake fluid over heats then that miosture will turn to steam if there is any present, if not the brake fluid it self will boil at a much higher temp.

[silvercorvette]

Hygroscopic does not mean it contains water, it means it can easily absorb moisture. Brake fluid can not contain any moisture what so ever because that is what will degenerate your brake system. Now in racing and repeatedly hard braking when the brake fluid over heats then that miosture will turn to steam if there is any present, if not the brake fluid it self will boil at a much higher temp.

Thank you that waas the point I was trying to make

[JENunnez]

Your welcome

[Robert Young]

I've seen brake fluid from the calipers look much worse than fluid further up in the system. One method I've heard about and used is to open the bleed port in the caliper when changing the pads. This allows the old fluid to come out when the pistons are pushed back for the new pads. Then, when I've changed all the pads for that maintenance (both front and rears rarely need to be changed at the same time), I pull some additional fluid through the calipers and top off the system appropriately. I think the key item is that you never want to get contaminated fluid into the anti-lock brake mechanism, it would not be a simple repair if you ever had a fault.

[SOMEONE ELSE...]

I've seen brake fluid from the calipers look much worse than fluid further up in the system. One method I've heard about and used is to open the bleed port in the caliper when changing the pads. This allows the old fluid to come out when the pistons are pushed back for the new pads. Then, when I've changed all the pads for that maintenance (both front and rears rarely need to be changed at the same time), I pull some additional fluid through the calipers and top off the system appropriately. I think the key item is that you never want to get contaminated fluid into the anti-lock brake mechanism, it would not be a simple repair if you ever had a fault.

Ever looked at the front calipers on your hybrid (much less, the rear)? We have over 70K miles on one of our hybrids. There's so much of the stopping power done by regenerative energy recapture, that literally the minimum wear ever takes place. Our front pad? You'd be hard pressed to even guess that they have 4K miles on 'em ... much less the rear pads. You'd really have to be doing tons of crazy-insane breaking to get pads to wear a lot, on a hybrid. In fact, the bigger problem for those who drive extra carefull in hybrids, is rust building up on the rotors. So I hit 'em hard ever so often, to keep the rust off ... just in case. As for fluid change, since the Toyota hybrid specialist confirms 100K miles is do-able. That's when we'll be doing the flush.

[Fenton House]

Also if you do a lot of hard braking, [racing on the track or long descents down high steep mountain roads] the fluid temp can get very high, the water can boil and turn to steam. When that happens you can lose most if not all of the ability to brake.

Hugh? Brake fluid turn to steam? Brake fluid is oil ... so, no steam

What he was saying is, the brake fluid can attract moisture (water) if any is present. So, if the system has managed to attract water, high temperatures can turn the water to steam. Not something you want. This has been a major concern with the newer brake fluids.

I'm looking ahead to the 30k service and want to be prepared for any dealer 'games.' What are dealers charging for the brake fluid flush? Might make sense to rent the appropriate tool and do it myself...


Fenton House

[riwyle]

Also if you do a lot of hard braking, [racing on the track or long descents down high steep mountain roads] the fluid temp can get very high, the water can boil and turn to steam. When that happens you can lose most if not all of the ability to brake.

Hugh? Brake fluid turn to steam? Brake fluid is oil ... so, no steam

What he was saying is, the brake fluid can attract moisture (water) if any is present. So, if the system has managed to attract water, high temperatures can turn the water to steam. Not something you want. This has been a major concern with the newer brake fluids.

I'm looking ahead to the 30k service and want to be prepared for any dealer 'games.' What are dealers charging for the brake fluid flush? Might make sense to rent the appropriate tool and do it myself...


Fenton House

All that is needed is a transparent container, a length of tubing, a wrench, spare fluid, and a helper. Devices are available (i.e. tubing with a check valve) to eliminate the need for the helper. It is not at all difficult if you have a little experience working on automobiles.

[RX400h]

I do have plenty of experience, but with a painted garage floor, I am wary of doing any more brake fluid flushes. Time is another issue for me now, as I'd rather not spend an afternoon doing it, myself.
But you are correct in that is not difficult as long as you bleed in the correct sequence.

Dave

[gabep]

I do have plenty of experience, but with a painted garage floor, I am wary of doing any more brake fluid flushes. Time is another issue for me now, as I'd rather not spend an afternoon doing it, myself.
But you are correct in that is not difficult as long as you bleed in the correct sequence.

Dave

I see you are in San Diego. Just had the 30,000 check done on a ES 330 at Bob Baker Toyota on Federal Ave. $230 including a discount coupon for the brake bleed that they had at the shop.

[Gryphon]

I do have plenty of experience, but with a painted garage floor, I am wary of doing any more brake fluid flushes. Time is another issue for me now, as I'd rather not spend an afternoon doing it, myself.
But you are correct in that is not difficult as long as you bleed in the correct sequence.

Dave

That's an interesting point, Dave. I am considering painting my garage floor, probably with epoxy. Isn't this impervious to brake fluid and other solvents?

Tom

[RX400h]

Tom,

I believe it is, but you might want to check with the manufacturer to be sure. Brake fluid is very strong (can eat through polyurethane paint, from what I understand) stuff. Unfortunately, when my house was being built, the home-type epoxy floor coating kits were not very common and those companies that would do the whole job were asking an arm and leg for payment. Thus, I went with paint. Someday, though...............

Dave

[Gryphon]

Dave. I know more about DOT3 damaging paint than I wish to remember. I once had a car vandalized with DOT3--apartment neighbors jealous of my brand new car. It dissolved the paint right down to bare metal.

Tom

[RXREY]

I'm being charged $599 for my 30K. service.

[RX400h]

Dave. I know more about DOT3 damaging paint than I wish to remember. I once had a car vandalized with DOT3--apartment neighbors jealous of my brand new car. It dissolved the paint right down to bare metal.

Tom

OUCH!

I'm being charged $599 for my 30K. service.

DOUBLE OUCH!