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Heavy White Smoke Now When Starting... Ps Pump Is Shot! Damage To


90LS400Lexus

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UPDATE - I got that hose off... actually, it broke into about 5 pieces... how brittle and hard as a rock.

The "caps" I have are too small, so I am going to have to get some larger ones. Big question now is can I just plug that one hose and intake port and leave the other on, or will it still cause the smoke? Fluid only appears to be in that one hose... not at the one in the intake hose... the one thats broken.

Oh boy - what now....

The hose to the center part of the intake broke when I tried to remove it and I cant get the remaining part off. :rolleyes:

Now the other part is broken to the intake hose. It appears to me that its the hose that goes to the front of the intake is where the fluid is being pulled in, so cant I just plug that one if I ever get the hose off?

Here are other photos of my woes..... :(

001-1.jpg

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I got the port on the front of the capped and put a smaller one in that hose to block it. On the other however, I was not able to block that hose, but I did put a cap in that hole (where it was broken) to keep it from sucking in air.

It seems like there is no harm in actually leaving either of those lines unblocked.

Oh, I started it and turned the steering, but could not tell that the steering wheel was any more difficult to turn... should there have been a noticable difference.... ?? Have I removed the wrong hoses?

More pics in a short while after dinner....

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I got the port on the front of the capped and put a smaller one in that hose to block it. On the other however, I was not able to block that hose, but I did put a cap in that hole (where it was broken) to keep it from sucking in air.

It seems like there is no harm in actually leaving either of those lines unblocked.

Oh, I started it and turned the steering, but could not tell that the steering wheel was any more difficult to turn... should there have been a noticable difference.... ?? Have I removed the wrong hoses?

Here are the photos of it now... with it like this, am I OK driving it to work tomorrow with those two hoses disconnected and that one not plugged up?

035.jpg

sorry, this was the best I could do... all I could find

036-1.jpg

got that one plugged... the one that had the fluid in it...

041.jpg

overall... have I done the right thing? Remember the car would billow severe smoke when first started.. especially in the evenings when I would leave work... how embarrasing. Remember, I am still having to pour alot of fluid in it... leaking out somewhere...

044.jpg

hose just broke into several pieces... badly hardened....

038.jpg

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Someone on the other Lexus site said this was incorrect!

I guess we will just try to bypass that idle-up valve one day this week and be done with it all.... I hope.

If you've disconnected the vacuum from the intake manifold to the PS pump and blocked any free air leaks into the intake manifold you should be OK. I would top up the PS fluid and ride the car for a while and see if PS fluid loss stops and if the white smoke eventually clears. If you are happy with the steering performance then maybe you can call it quits at this point.

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Hi 90LS,

The idle up valve only comes into play when you have the steering wheel fully turned to the right or left. This is when it has maximum pressure and puts a little more strain on the engine. It just raises the idle on the engine when you have your steering wheel maxed out to the left or right.

Other than that, you will not notice a difference.

Did your car quit smoking?

Is your PS pump still leaking?

Are you using Dexron ATF for your PS fluid?

From the pictures you posted, the leaks on the ground didn't look red like ATF should look.

Jerry

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If you've disconnected the vacuum from the intake manifold to the PS pump and blocked any free air leaks into the intake manifold you should be OK. I would top up the PS fluid and ride the car for a while and see if PS fluid loss stops and if the white smoke eventually clears. If you are happy with the steering performance then maybe you can call it quits at this point.
Hi 90LS,

The idle up valve only comes into play when you have the steering wheel fully turned to the right or left. This is when it has maximum pressure and puts a little more strain on the engine. It just raises the idle on the engine when you have your steering wheel maxed out to the left or right.

Other than that, you will not notice a difference.

Did your car quit smoking?

Is your PS pump still leaking?

Are you using Dexron ATF for your PS fluid?

From the pictures you posted, the leaks on the ground didn't look red like ATF should look.

Jerry

Thanks for that info. Well, I didnt have any problems today driving the car with the throttle body capped off and that hose removed. Its true, I didnt notice any difference in idle speed either. I think I (or mom :)) will be satisfied with that valve blocked.

No, the car still smoked heavily this evening when I left work, but someone said it will take awhile for this to stop, as its all built up in there?

Yes, its still leaking fluid pretty heavily and I guess it will until I get that valve plugged with a bolt/washer. I have put it off as long as I can. I hope that stops the leak as well.

Yep, using Dexron (tech brand) in the PS and its red when I pour it in. I think it just looks different because of the lighting and it had soaked into the concrete... its also running over what looks like years of crud where it has leaked for so long. I had been using that Lucas stop leak stuff... didnt leak nearly as much then, but it still leaked.

Thanks for the info... updates when we get that valve bypassed.

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No, the car still smoked heavily this evening when I left work, but someone said it will take awhile for this to stop, as its all built up in there?

The stuff has gummed up your intake manifold and throttle body and ducts. It will take a while to dry out. If you wanted to speed it up you could clean up the throttle body (a good thing to do anyway) and rinse out the ducts with some sort of cleaning solvent and dry them out.

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Thanks. Ugh. I didnt let it run this evening when I left work.... I thought I would just start it, throw it in gear and get out of there, because its embarrasing... it looks like the engine is blown up when first started. :rolleyes: Anyway, that was a mistake... I started out on the road and it was trying to stall... it was bucking and it was like it had no power. It finally cleared out and went, but obviously that was not a good thing to do.

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I changed my idle up valve out about two weeks ago.

Now I'm smoke free, and I didn't use a nicotine patch! :lol:

Mine had almost an immediate effect, no smoke the next day. It had been smoking and using power steering fluid since the day I got it and now no smoke and NO POWER STEERING FLUID LOSS!

The old girl is starting to shape up.

I had took the car to a mechanic and he said the power steering pressure hose was leaking and the steering rack was leaking and the 2 parts combined would be $800.00.

If I would have let him change the parts my car would still be smoking and losing power steering fluid. He had no clue what was wrong with my car.

So hats off to all you good people here at the Lexus Owner's Club Forum where I learned about the idle up valve on the steering pump.

It seems that Lexus owners know more about their cars than mechanics do.

Jerry

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Thanks. Well, I cannot afford to replace the valve, but we are going to block and bypass it soon.

I imagine that the engine cover has to come off... after that, is it easy to access?

I changed my idle up valve out about two weeks ago.

Now I'm smoke free, and I didn't use a nicotine patch! :lol:

Mine had almost an immediate effect, no smoke the next day. It had been smoking and using power steering fluid since the day I got it and now no smoke and NO POWER STEERING FLUID LOSS!

The old girl is starting to shape up.

I had took the car to a mechanic and he said the power steering pressure hose was leaking and the steering rack was leaking and the 2 parts combined would be $800.00.

If I would have let him change the parts my car would still be smoking and losing power steering fluid. He had no clue what was wrong with my car.

So hats off to all you good people here at the Lexus Owner's Club Forum where I learned about the idle up valve on the steering pump.

It seems that Lexus owners know more about their cars than mechanics do.

Jerry

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Thanks. Well, I cannot afford to replace the valve, but we are going to block and bypass it soon.

I imagine that the engine cover has to come off... after that, is it easy to access?

I suppose you mean the under engine cover or the splash shield. Yes, it needs to come off and then the valve can be reached from the bottom. You will need a 17mm open end wrench. You might need a short (stubby) wrench, a long one might not be able to access it. I used both. It was too tight to break loose with the stubby and I was just barely able to get the long one in there to break it loose and then used the stubby the rest of the way.

When you take the valve out, the fluid will pour out of the hole so be sure to cover your alternator with a piece of plastic and be sure to put a catch bucket underneath.

I have never blocked one before so I do not know if you need some type of special bolt or just one that fits the hole. If the fluid is actually leaking from your valve, then this might fix your problem.

But I recommend putting it back like factory if at all possible.

Did the smoking ever stop? If so, how long did it take?

Jerry

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Back in post 7 I linked a thread which had the following in post 72:

...the ACV can be removed and reinstalled from the top side without removing the PS Pump

pully. It does help to removed the Air Filter housing and loosen the return line support and move

the return line out of the way to improve access. I removed the Pressure line from the bottom of

the PS Pump and this made it a snap to remove the ACV as you can work from the front of the

pump area.

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I dealt with this right after buying my '92 and can lend a lot of points, don't know how I missed this thread.

Mine was leaking too and the nipple on the intake tube was broken off just like yours. I ran a screw into the hole covered in RTV temporarily which sealed it up until I could build a new intake tube, capped the one on the plenum, and removed both lines completely. This eliminated the ATF suction into the intake, but not the leak. Soon after the pump went out anyway, turns out the original owner had filled it up with regular PS fluid so I bought a reman pump for $129 at Advance, during install I remove the vacuum idle up switch and bought a pipe plug the correct pitch, sealed it with RTV, and completely deleted the switch altogether. Flushed and refilled it with ATF and it's been perfect ever since. The car drives completely fine without it, on Nissan cars they use an electrical switch and I've deleted those in the past on numerous cars I've worked on due to leakage, the only change is the idle drops about 100rpm when the steering is at full lock, but how often do you drive at full lock? Maybe .0001% of the time. You'll never notice it gone.

After I did my timing belt I had the intake manifold, plenum, and throttle body all hot tanked to clean out the years of soot and gunk as well as having all the extra vacuum ports, included the one pointing out that used to go to the pump, welded closed. I prefer this as vacuum caps can become brittle just like hoses do, especially with the underhood heat the LS puts off. If you can't go that route, a bolt/screw of a larger pitch can be threaded into the port or you can pull the port out (it's just pressed in) and thread something into the aluminum casting of the plenum. The difference after that was very noticeable as they entire intake tract was now clean for once in maybe 120k miles.

While I don't suggest you do all those steps, removing the switch and plugging it will solve your leak and not affect the engine one bit. It's also two less hoses to continually check on over the next several years.

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^^^^Thanks for the advice RDM, thats what i'll do on my '92, but where did you get the pipe plug that fit the hole where the valve goes? how big/wide was it?

I have a hydraulic supply store close to me, you should have one too locally. Take the switch in and just have them match the thread pitch. I won't say for certain but it seems like it was an M12x1.75, it's basically just a threaded plug with a hex head on it, they also had an allen head I think. Remember to seal it with RTV well so it won't leak.

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^^^^Thanks for the advice RDM, thats what i'll do on my '92, but where did you get the pipe plug that fit the hole where the valve goes? how big/wide was it?

I have a hydraulic supply store close to me, you should have one too locally. Take the switch in and just have them match the thread pitch. I won't say for certain but it seems like it was an M12x1.75, it's basically just a threaded plug with a hex head on it, they also had an allen head I think. Remember to seal it with RTV well so it won't leak.

Hey! Your LS is identical to mine!

Thanks. I will have to look into that. I got the hose and drain bolt I needed this evening... gonna work on it Sunday probably.

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90LS,

This may be obvious, but have you checked your filters? The PS system has two of them - one in the PS fluid reservoir tank at the bottom, and another one at the pressure control solenoid, down at the bottom of the PS column in the engine bay. Cleaning both of these filters is either easy or hard, depending upon whose story you read, but there are several lengthy topic/threads on them. Someone who is more familiar with them can post the link, or I will try to find them and post them.

According to several of those posts, when these screens get blocked the PS pressure has a tendency to blow the seals and leak. The repair manual ('92 LS400) shows a minimum pressure of 1,067 psi (75kgg/cm^2) at full lock when fluid is at regular operating temperature (80Celsius/176F) with a pressure gauge attached and the valve closed.

Hope this helps shed some light on the issue.

:rolleyes:

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I am also really confused because that one nipple is broken on the intake area. I cant get a hose hooked to it now and dont know what to do.... :(

I have not even got the car on ramps yet to get under there to see how hard it is to remove the valve.

I also know I should clean the screens, but every site I find says something different.

I may have to just take it to that Toyota mechanic I know and let him do it and shell out more $. <_<

This is really frustrating. POS car.

Here is where I am at now...

001-2.jpg

003-1.jpg

010.jpg

005.jpg

nasty thing.... ( I have never owned a car that leaked power steering, but if I did, this one would still take the cake!)

015-1.jpg

016-2.jpg

my old Pontiac in the background there is almost 38 years old and dont leak anything.

here is the bypass hose...

023-1.jpg

We are going to plug that other part thats broken tomorrow properly.

Also, the dang mosquitoes are so bad, you cant stand being outside!

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I am also really confused because that one nipple is broken on the intake area. I cant get a hose hooked to it now and dont know what to do.... :(

I have not even got the car on ramps yet to get under there to see how hard it is to remove the valve.

I also know I should clean the screens, but every site I find says something different.

I may have to just take it to that Toyota mechanic I know and let him do it and shell out more $. <_<

This is really frustrating. POS car.

Here is where I am at now...

001-2.jpg

003-1.jpg

010.jpg

005.jpg

nasty thing.... ( I have never owned a car that leaked power steering, but if I did, this one would still take the cake!)

015-1.jpg

016-2.jpg

my old Pontiac in the background there is almost 38 years old and dont leak anything.

here is the bypass hose...

023-1.jpg

We are going to plug that other part thats broken tomorrow properly.

Also, the dang mosquitoes are so bad, you cant stand being outside!

Hi 90LS,

Sorry you're having so much trouble with you car. I think the advice to tap it and thread another fitting may work. Also, to get out the broken piece from the rubber end you could probably use a hot air blower or something similar - like a blow drier to soften the rubber before trying to pull the broken piece out. Probably should have done that before trying to disconnect it in the beginning. That's not helping the present situation though.

If you do try to tap the broken end, you may want to take off the entire plastice piece to do it because you will wind up with plastic crap inside there and you don't want that stuff getting into your engine!

HTH

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