AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.




Latest Posts

Showing topics posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. 98 LS400 Instrument Panel/Gauges

    Is this what you need?
  3. Car wont start '98 LS 400

    M.Yasir, I think the codes could happen to occur when a car does not start and one tries to crank it over. When the car could not start up at all, I think the ECM was thrown a bunch of incomplete messages (reports) and result a bunch of bad reports. It happened to me once when my car did not start and reading codes gave me a long list (O2 sensor, ... you name it). But it was MAF problem. I replaced it, reset all the codes and it was fine.
  4. 98 LS400 vibration above 72 mph

    I had the same issue on my 1998. Previous owner had cheap tires. I had those balanced but still vibrated a little. I put new Michelins and it went away. I noticed though going 95 MPH or more the car would shake. Make sure your tire pressure is around 34/35 PSI. I had mine at the in car panel recommendation of 29 which is fine for slow driving but not for highway. High speed needs firmer tires.
  5. ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING THE BATTERY

    This is an old post. I think you fixed it by replacing the alternator or fixing the connectivity. Battery is charged with higher voltage than 12.3V.
  6. Alternator Going Bad? Please Look

    I cut a plastic bottle to cover half right of the alternator hoping to shield it from leaking ps fluid. Although my alternator has lifetime warranty, I do not want to deal with the connector on the alternator. It is stuck and easy to break since it is too old.
  7. Car HUD

    Thanks for the confirmation. I will give it a try. It looks nice and convenient.
  8. How To Fix Your Speedometer Needle

    The only fix on my car is a quick hit (with my palm) on top of the instrument display. Happened to me several time: the speed was dead, but RPM needle still worked. Fix like a champ.
  9. '92 LS400 cold start stumbling

    The fuel filter is in the rear. How to Replace the Fuel Filter
  10. Transmission problem?

    Thanks billydpowell. I guess when I am at it, I will apply voltage to each solenoid to see responses and measure ohm.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  13. Is 300 header on a gs300

    Am new here guys whats up juat womdering if anyone here has ever installed a 2000 is 300 header on a 2000 hs 300 i will install mine and puy info on how and what but want to know if any one has done it.thanks
  14. In need of advice

    I would imagine it is coded to the car...you either need to get it coded to yours or you would need the immobiliser system to match the ECU
  15. Center console cover suggestions pelase?

    You may be able to find a trimmer to re-cover it...would need removing first though
  16. Last week
  17. HI, I am forced to do this camera swap out due to a very foggy lens, I've stripped the camera and the outside lens is in a sealed piece of plastic - with the exception of a pinhole that lets condensation in. I've spent a lot of time searching about the option to put in a new camera but can't find any examples of someone showing what you were talking about. Did you manage to get it working? My RX400h is a 2006 and it has 4 wires coming from the harness, 2 black and one yellow and one red. I'd love to know what aftermarket camera you got and how you wired it up. Many thanks.
  18. Starter Replacement

    Several posts on this forum have lamented the dearth of instructions for SC430 starter fixing, and Wadenelson's notes plus photos are useful. In particular, his showing the Harbor Freight tool required for just that last actual starter bolt is spot on. But the whole job invites a better outlining, since the factory manuals need elaboration. This is a major undertaking, but can be done by the medium experienced. Much shop time cost can be saved! Removal of the main cover and various hoses plus one electrical connector to the throttle body is normal. One of those hoses is on the underside and most easily unhooked as you are removing the entire assembly. But in the first contrary instruction, it is not necessary to take off the throttle body if you are careful; it can be left on the manifold assembly the entire time. This saves the cost of replacing its gasket. Likewise, do NOT remove the many plenum bolts on top of the manifold assembly unless you somehow want to replace that gasket as well. BTW, I suggest you number the V-bank cover brackets when removing, to correspond to the manual's numbers. Or take a photo of the whole thing from above after removing the big plastic cover.. The main fuel line must be disconnected as instructed, but they do not mention that it's also useful to disconnect it from each side fuel rail; this because the thing juts under the wire harness and won't allow upwards motion of the assembly when you finally take it out. The manual insists on O-gasket replacements for this fuel pipe, see below. There is also a small 6mm bolt way in back of the pipe to remove. As long as we're mentioning the two fuel rails, also refrain from removing the two bolts on each side that hold them [and the injectors] down. The manifold assembly can be removed by swinging it toward the right side [instead of upwards], thus slipping the fuel line out from under the left wire harness. But this is tricky, and extra help is advised - access is very awkward. What really helps is to have removed the right rear engine hoist hook; you will probably never need it, and it can be put back on at a later time. But of course, you have to remove the intake and plenum assembly at least once to get to the bolts holding this item. Now about those fuel injector connections: I hereby place a curse on the Lexus manual editor who, with 4+ inches thick of paper, could not find a way to explain how to disconnect them. Most other connectors on the car come off with some sort of finger pinching. Not the injector ones. I finally found a good way to get them off carefully [Do NOT break one!]. This is best done with [again] Harbor Freight long-nosed large pliers. From the back, insert one jaw into the plastic recesses, and the other under the connector. Squeeze and pull gently. They have tiny wires. I will try to imbed a photo. The manuals do not say, but you will also have to take off the 6mm bolts [using a 10mm socket] that hold down the wire harness, and two more for the part in back. This harness must eventually slip over the left engine lift hook; [left as facing the front of the car, as usual termonology]. There are various hoses to slip off, and nuts and bolts on each side of the manifold as well. Those bolts take the usual 12mm socket, and this is easiest to use. A T40 Torx socket fits in the middle of the bolts, but there's often too much dirt in there, too. I found it a good idea to get out the old air hose and blow off this entire area before taking them off. Not only does it clear out the torx hole, but also removes stuff that might fall into the intake holes later. Then you can also have a shop vac on hand to suck up all the debris that lies under the manifold. Mine included rodent seed storage and snail shells. Prying up the manifold will bring to light several hoses or connectors that you missed. Then you will likely find the connector UNDER the manifold with a 6mm bolt holding on the wire. The assembly is somewhat heavy, and a two person job. OR, do as I did and make a bracket to bolt on the back, then use a hold down strap between that and the hood catch. Then raising the hood brings up the back of the assembly, and you can just left the front by hand, and swing the thing forwards - over the cardboard protecting piece you laid down. You will want to remove the back coolant crossover, but it's not necessary to do anything with the long front-to-back one which lays between the cylinder banks. The connectors for the starter itself are easy, except the main positive lead, which can come off after you loosen the starter. I never did disconnect the battery cable itself from the battery. You can leave it on if you're careful - I suggest at least covering the positive terminal with a cloth. Otherwise, it's major spark time. The left starter bolt [remove it first] is very hard to reach with a tool, although once started with the ratchet mentioned above, you can just use your fingers. Putting it back later was not as hard, but I suggest you install the right bolt first. Now about the starter itself: They are very robust, except for the two brass solenoid contacts. My local starter fixer declared the rest of the starter bullet proof, and just replaced those contacts. This has an ancient heritage: I worked on solenoid contacts 50 years ago. Before reassembly: you will want to go get the necessary gaskets, which include the intake manifold ones and the two for the coolant crossover pipe; these can come from a regular auto parts store. Also get the one for the throttle body if you removed it. Now comes, if you removed the fuel connector, an annoying trip to your Lexus or Toyota dealer to replace the little crush washers that fit around the fuel pipe fittings to the injection rails. I did later find them online, but oddly more costly. At least it saves you some trips to the dealer's. You'll need two each of #23232-41081 and 90430-12026. This latter one especially is annoying for just a small washer, but consider that it holds back 40 pounds or so of fuel pressure.... It's nice to have the correct part. And yes I know it's tempting to re-use the old ones, which may or not work. DO attach the positive cable to the starter before putting it in place. DO install the fuel line [if removed from the fuel rails] just as you have the manifold assembly hovering almost in place; this line needs to be routed carefully in back as well as UNDER the wiring harness. If you don't follow this, and start bolting the manifold down before the fuel line, you'll just have to pry the whole thing up again. Other than that, reassembly is pretty easy. For working on a Lexus, I like to have a small 1/4" drive torque wrench, but a regular one will do. The two fuel pressure units that use the above mentioned crush washers want to be torqued in place, but obviously no socket will work. The hex under the bulbous part is US 7/8" and I guess you could estimate it, but it also works well to use a crowfoot to torque them. The mainfold bolts are more easily inserted into place using one of those small telescoping magnets. Don't forget to put the coolant back in before trying out your repair. And watch out for two of the hoses that connect to the throttle body. These carry coolant and if they come loose later, you'll have a nasty surprise. I did!
  19. One thing to remind, do not buy reman alternator. I went with new one with life time warranty. It should last for lifetime this time.
  20. '02 drivers power seat not working

    Getting seat from salvage yard today for $60
  21. ...not to mention the other problem I stripped the McGARD security socket ordered 2 new ones and both of those stripped due to an apparent overly tight nut, so I hammered on a 3/4'' 1/2 drive 12pt socket and it came right off but I cant get the socket off the nut to do the other 3 because I don't have a strong enough vise and I don't want to bother using a torch so I ended up just ordering 3 more sockets I hate these security lug nuts there is 6 points of contact but the damn things are only a few millimeters deep what a crappy design... oh well
  22. Sat-nav in 2013 IS 350h.

    Hi, I have just recently taken ownership of a 2013 IS 300h, in the UK, and it has the Generation I navigation system. The only issue that I am having is that every time I turn on the centre display the sat-nav map comes up by default. Even if I select the climate control option, after 5 minutes or so the sat nav map re-appears. I have deleted everything that had been saved by the previous owner but I can't get the sat nav map to disappear. Does anyone have an answer to this ? parkman.
  23. Faulty break system

    It sounds like either there is air trapped in the ABS modulator block or it is faulty...either way, I would have it checked by a reputable garage to ensure nothing else is wrong with the system. Also, if the pistons are forced back in without winding them back or releasing the bleed nipple to allow the pressure not to travel back up the system as this can cause problems with the ABS hydraulics.
  24. there's only one way to really find out....good luck and let us know how you get on
  25. GPS not showing Nav. screen

    Hi Matt Sounds like an aerial issue....maybe see if you can track through the connections to the external aerial or if there is a connection to mount an aftermarket external aerial. Let us know what you find
  26. new member

    Hi Dave....welcome to the Club There is a recent post on this forum regarding coil spring conversion by a member on his GX...reckoned it performed better than the airbag set up. Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor
  27. Hi, I'm new here and pretty new to car repair. I have a 2000 GS300 that I'm pretty sure has a parasitic battery drain. When it's off, the car draws 90mA -- if it sits idle for 5 days or so, the battery drains completely. By pulling fuses with my multimeter connected to the battery, I've determined that the "DOME"/interior lights circuit is responsible for about 60mA of that draw. According to the manual, the DOME circuit is responsible for the interior lights, personal lights, vanity lights, trunk light, and clock. I've confirmed that all of the interior lights, glove box light, and trunk light shut off automatically when they're supposed to. I've also disconnected both the clock and the glove box light and confirmed that the drain occurs even when they're disconnected. Any ideas how to home in further on the problem? My working theory is that there's a grounded wire somewhere, maybe the one running to the trunk light, but I'm shooting in the dark at this point.
  28. It sounds like you will want 93. You don't 'need' it, but it will give you a bit more power. How much? I have no idea. I'm looking at it as 'will it damage the engine'. I'm old, with an RX. My days of driving hard are way behind me. (and I'm cheap. I use synthetic oil, as recommended, but I'm not paying 50c more for a gallon of gas!) Just remember - premium isn't any cleaner than regular gas. It just has higher octane - which prevents knocking, when accelerating fast, or climbing a long grade. But with lower octane, the computer will !Removed! the timing a bit, as needed. It can sense knock. And I guess I meant 'race' in either manner. Racing, or desiring the extra performance on the street. If you have headers, I'm guessing you will want the added benefit of 93. The added power may be real or imagined - but you will want it for your car. Good luck!
  1. Load more activity